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    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      British Columbia, Canada
      Posts
      723
      Country Flag: Canada

      Is 20 guage too thin for smooth firewall

      So on the weekend I made a smooth firewall out of 16 guage sheet metal. I was going to weld it on top of the old one (most of it removed though), then I got thinking and now I'm wondering if I would be better off running a flange all the way around, using thinner sheet metal so it is flush with the flange and saving some time trying to smooth the edges. Right now it's just held in place with cleckos. I've done a search of the threads and found different guages of sheetmetal that have been used, but none of the threads found have mentioned running a flange at all. I ran a test flange on a spare piece of sheetmetal and found that 20 guage fits pretty flush. 18 is a tiny bit too thick, but would probably work with a little grinding.

      Or...do you think I would be better off leaving if the way it is now. The more I look at it, the only places I would have to grind to make it fit a contour would be along the top and around the tranny tunnel. The other areas would blend in pretty good. What do you guys think???? Here's some pics of what I've done.











    2. #2
      Join Date
      May 2000
      Posts
      4,151
      Country Flag: United States
      I think 20 would be fine. JMO.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2003
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      8,745
      For warpage and vibration we use 16, but 18 or 20 is fine long as you plug weld it along the lower cowl as you have it set up.

      Your doing it exactly correct.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      86
      Here's a dumb question. How are the heater hoses deleted after this is done? I wanted to do the same thing.

      Dave

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      British Columbia, Canada
      Posts
      723
      Country Flag: Canada
      Thanks Frank. I think I'm going to end up leaving it as is then.

      Fireeater....I'm going to install a Vintage Air system that does not use the same set up. I'm then going to route the houses through the passenger side cowel panel like Frank did on project EmptyNest. The other option is to use a bulkhead. Here's a link to what it looks like: https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=41697

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      1,070
      20 is too thin for a flat sheet. If there are no contours or bead work. 16 and 18 are close but big difference between 16 and 20 gauge.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      British Columbia, Canada
      Posts
      723
      Country Flag: Canada
      Thanks Brian. That's what I was worried about. I've decided I'm going to stick with the 16 guage one that I've already made.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Posts
      867
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Fireeater
      Here's a dumb question. How are the heater hoses deleted after this is done? I wanted to do the same thing.

      Dave
      remove heater core from the heater box inside the car, and use pipe plugs for the holes in the intake and water pump.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Winston Salem N.C
      Posts
      159
      We just put a piece of 18 aluminum on top of our firewall. I patched/closed up all heater openings etc... then used fuzor body panel adhesive to bond it to the firewall. Then used SEM hi build epoxy sealer along outer edges, and sanded/blended smooth. The firewall cover should do fine with flexing, etc... with the bonding/sealer method. Then again I am talking about a cover piece, not using the panel as the firewall itelf.
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      British Columbia, Canada
      Posts
      723
      Country Flag: Canada
      So I ended up using 16 guage for the whole firewall. Here's how it turned out. I still have to clean up all the welds. I plan on putting the wiper motor under the driver's side fender.


    11. #11
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Roseville
      Posts
      286
      Nice job!




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