New Nova guy saying hello

[Corn Nova]

I just wanted to introduce myself. I’m a newbie out of Michigan. I have a 1971 Nova SS that has been off the road for 14 years waiting for a complete overhaul and face lift. It has a 23 year old poorly prepped paint job and some cancer in the floors. Other than that, it’s a nice car and a great starting point for a pro-touring ride. It looks pretty raggedy from sitting (the storage area had a bird perched above it) but all-in –all not bad. The outside sheet metal is good, it currently has a mild built small block, Muncie 4-speed and a 12-bolt with 3.73’s which will have to do for now. It will be a slow project as funds allow, but this is sort of what I have in store for it:

Project “Corn-Fed” 1971 Chevy Nova

The purpose of this build is to create a vehicle that follows the “Pro-Touring” & “G-Machine” theme that can be driven daily to work, hold it’s own at the road race course and still tear up the quarter-mile. I understand that not everyone has an unlimited budget, access to a dedicated shop with all the latest and greatest tools or superior fabrication skills to be able to build a six-figure, award-winning work of art. This car is going to be something the “Average Joe” could both afford and build in his own garage. In fact, this car will mostly be built in a 1-1/2 car garage with minimal fabrication and mostly bolt-on parts. About the only major fabrication required for this car will be new floors, mini-tub & taking out the factory frame rails and replacing them with 2x3 formed rails. This is not needed for most cars, but this car had the front of a rear leaf spring come thru the floor and kinked the driver side frame rail. We aren’t fabricating one-off control arms, brake caliper brackets, cage kits, motor mounts, etc.
I am going for a classic, yet original non-trendy look. Grays, silvers and blacks are timeless and I feel will always be in style. The car is an “SS”, but I have always liked the “Yenko Deuce” stripe on the ’70 Yenko Novas. I’m leaning towards a dark grey body color with a charcoal Yenko Deuce painted stripe package and leave on the “SS” trim. This should give it a subtle look since the Deuce stripes are pretty big and bold. I’m going “Nostalgic” on the wheels and more than likely using American Racing’s grey painted Cobra 427 wheels (without the knock off caps) in 17” diameter. I think that will keep the whole look modern with a classic touch.
I want an engine that can put out big power (in a usable street RPM range), be low maintenance and street friendly. I have decided to build a simple 12.5:1 compression, tried and trued 383 stroked Small Block Chevy that will run off of E-85 Ethanol fuel. With E-85’s 105 octane, it will easily support the high compression, plus the added benefit of having “inexpensive, high-octane” fuel available at the pump for less money than premium gasoline.

Engine
Displacement: 383 C.I.
Estimated Power: 575HP @ 6,000 RPM / 580TQ @ 4,500 RPM
Compression ratio:12.5:1
Fuel: E-85 Ethanol
Block: Stock GM 2-bolt converted to 4-bolt billet main caps
Crank: K1 3.750” stroke forged 4340 steel
Rods: K1 6.000” forged 4340 steel H-beam w/ ARP 2000 bolt upgrade
Pistons: Mahle or Wiseco forged aluminum 4.030” bore, 6cc or 8cc dome, 1.125” C/H
Heads: Brodix or Edelbrock aluminum 64cc combustion chambers, 180 or 200cc runners
Intake: Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap
Carburetor: Quick Fuel E85 750CFM
Carburetor Spacer: HVH Street Sweeper 1”
Camshaft: Competition Cams XE276HR

Front Suspension & Brakes
Control Arms: Upper & lower tubular control arms with Del-A-Lum bushings
Shocks & Springs: QA1 #GMP1350-1 single adjustable coil-over kit w/ #350 springs
Body Mounts: Global West #801, ½” drop aluminum
Sway Bar: Hotchkis
Tubular Tie Rod Adjusters: Hotchkis
Brake Kit: 13” Baer Track Plus, 2-pc drilled & slotted rotors
Proportioning Valve: Allstar Performance

Rear Suspension & Brakes
Frame Rails: Competition Engineering #C3016 2”x3” formed frame rails
Frame Connectors: Competition Engineering #3016 weld-in frame connectors
Mini-Tub: Either modify DSE or modify stock housings
Rear End: 12 bolt narrowed, 3.73, Detroit Tru-Trac
Watts Link: Fays 2
Shocks: QA1 #TC1661’s
Springs: Drop leaf springs with Del-A-Lum spring and shackle bushings and Watts Link
Brake Kit: 13” Baer Track Plus, 2-pc drilled & slotted rotors

Wheels & Tires
Front: 17x9.5, 275/40/17
Rear: 17x11, 315/35/17

Exhaust
Headers: Dynatech coated long tube, 1-3/4” to 1-7/8” stepped with 3” collector
Exhaust: Magnaflow stainless steel 3” diameter with “X” pipe
Cut-Outs: Race Ready Performance 3” diameter electric cut-outs

Interior
Gauges: Stewart Warner silver faced full gauge set: Speedo, Tach, oil pressure, water temp, oil temp, fuel pressure in the dash. Fuel level, volt, wide band air/fuel ratio & D-PIC in console.
Seats: Either Scat Rally or Sparco Steel seats

[stang97]

Nice list of things you have there. Any more pics??

[Tucks69]

Welcome to the forum. Keep us posted on the progress.

Michael

[70Nova4dr]

Sounds like a sweet project.. how come noone does 4 doors ? I have a 1970 4 door, and you rarely see a 4 door done up nice. My ideal engine would be a single turbo smallblock with the powerglde behind it. Welcome aboard.

[Corn Nova]

Thanks guys for the warm welcome.

I just shot these pics today at lunch. I only had the car on the road for a year before breaking it and it has sat since then. I never was much of a picture taker, so I don't have any pictures of when it was "presentable". I'll get some more pictures and post them. The engine bay is pretty clean, straight out of the 80's with gold Moroso valve covers and air cleaner!! LOL.

It will be a slow project (the kid needs to eat i suppose), but hopefully steady progress. I'll keep everyone updated and move it into the "projects" area once things have started. Right now I'm just accumulating all the parts needed to start the frame and chassis work. I have the frame rails, frame ties, mini-tubs, shocks, body mounts, hardware,......etc. Just need to get the floors (I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and get the full floor from Goodmark).

[Tucks69]

I still have the gold valve covers on my 68, but I just painted them orange around the early 90"s!!!

[WILWAXU]

Welcome! The Nova crowd is getting bigger by the day.

[Nessumsar]

Good to have another Nova around, people are starting to see their potential. You have accumulated a pretty nice list going on there. Just wish there were more E85 stations around my neck of the woods, such a great alternative.

[1971novaSS]

Welcome! You definently have your work cut out for you. Should be a fun project!

[ebncrdr]

Rear Suspension & Brakes
Frame Rails: Competition Engineering #C3016 2”x3” formed frame rails
Frame Connectors: Competition Engineering #3016 weld-in frame connectors
Mini-Tub: Either modify DSE or modify stock housings
Rear End: 12 bolt narrowed, 3.73, Detroit Tru-Trac
Watts Link: Fays 2
Shocks: QA1 #TC1661’s
Springs: Drop leaf springs with Del-A-Lum spring and shackle bushings and Watts Link
Brake Kit: 13” Baer Track Plus, 2-pc drilled & slotted rotors

Fays2 makes a watts link for the Novas? Tell me more.

[Corn Nova]

I don't believe they make a bolt-in unit for the Nova. The closest I think they have is a 1st gen Camaro (what is different, I'm not sure). I am taking out my stock frame rails and replacing them with 2x3 straight frame rails and moving them in closer to the center of the car to accomodate a mini-tub. This way I won't have to use offset shackles or notch the stock frame rails. One of my stock rails is junk, otherwise I wouldn't be going thru all this trouble. What I plan on doing for the Watts link is buying probably a 1st gen kit and modifying it. Instead of bolting it onto the rails, I'll probably weld it in. For my rear suspension I want to do composite Hyperco mono-leafs with a Watts link and QA1's Stocker Star shocks with the top mounts converted to eyelet instead of the T-bar. Sure, a 4-link wouldn't be much more money, but I wanted to do something kinda old school and different from most others.

If the frame rails are the same width from each other center-to-center, I don't see why the Fay's for the 1st gen Camaro wouln't work. I'd see if someone can give you their measurements on a Camaro and compare them to a Nova.