Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      1,070

      Billet Watts Link Kit

      Tke a look at TOTALLYPOLISHED.COM. Designed for trucks but maybe adaptable? Looks interesting but I will let the cyber engineers be the judge.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      McMurdo Station, Antarctica
      Posts
      211
      Try this for the link.
      R.J.


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Posts
      6
      The pivot should be on the chassis. I'm not sure why they would put so much effort into the wrong design. Having said that, I'm sure they will sell some. Just my $.02


      John

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Valencia, CA.
      Posts
      26
      Not sure what you mean by wrong design?

      Pivot on axel is less just as good as on chassis, the only difference I see is on chassis design may be easier to package and have less un-spung mass, the effect should be the same.

      Let me know your thoughts, may be you're thinking of something I'm not aware of. Check out the pic's on my web site...
      I've just had a look at the site, I wouldn't say its the wrong design, gut I think it's far from the most elegant design I've ever seen. There is far too much unsprung mass on the axle, may be it's fine for the obese, lardy trucks they're going on. Have you seen the 2004 Dodge truck that has a axle mounted pivot? it has a heavy diff cover where the pivot is mounted.
      Tom

      Race Engine Design Engineer

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Posts
      6
      The roll center from the Watts link should be at the same height as the roll center as defined by the leaf springs, at static ride height. The roll centers will move dynamically, and if they are not the same height, binding will occur. A Watts link with the pivot on the chassis that is in line with the roll center of the leaf springs won't bind. With the pivot on the rear end, the roll center will change as the rear end moves up and down. Most of the time it is packaging issues. I made one for my wifes '65 Mustang coup. This phot is of the car in mock up. I did a lot of reading before I started work on ours and the best way to do it is with the pivot on the chassis.







      This is a early Mustang with a chassis mounted pivot. It doen't have to be adjustable but they may have wanted to try a different setting. It looks like they came up with the pivot mounting point in line with the roll center of the leaf springs.



      This is a watts for a late model Mustang.

      I have a few more photos of my set up if anyone wants to make one and I'll be glad to help. I have about $300 in parts in mine. I'm not saying it won't work with the pivot on the rear end because it does. It's better to have the pivot on the chassis.

      This is a Griggs set up.


      I think packaging was the issue with this idea to put the pivot on the rear end.


      John

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Boise, Idaho
      Posts
      107
      How much advantage is there running this type of set up over a panard bar? I understand what it does, but for a fairly stiff street/track suspension, will you notice any improvement in handling? More predictable on rough road?? Does the advantage out weigh the extra pounds added to the chassis?
      -Nate
      71 Firebird.....in progress

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jan 2004
      Location
      NW Suburbs, Chicago
      Posts
      560
      Im no master of suspension, but what ive gathered from CC.com is that Watts will locate better, however there isnt much difference between the two. A watts is heavier than the PHBs. The PHB will locate an axle just fine. There is a link i saw a wihle ago that shows how much difference the two setups have between axle location and the PHB was like 1/8" of movement or something like that, whereas the Watts was 0"

      I guess its a matter of preferance, but i see no need to go to a watts when a PHB will do just fine and be lighter.

      Im sure someone with more knowledge will come in and explain better and in more detail.



      Opentracker, on that top picture you posted. How come there is exhaust pipe run up and over the axle that is only partially cut into the mufflers?

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Posts
      6
      We have to be under 90db at Laguna Seca on the weekends. This car is getting four mufflers, a x-pipe with full tail pipes. These are 10" X 17" 30's Flowmasters, 3" in and out. The glass packs are 2.5"ID.




      Got to be quiet or Carl the starter gets mad at you.........black flag for sound ends the day at Laguna.




      I have found that a panhard bar will not work the same around left and right had corners. On a long oval or in a straight line it is fine. From what I have found a Watts link will work better on a road course car.


      John

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Valencia, CA.
      Posts
      26
      As I understand it with a PHB, the rear will lift aroud Right hand bend and sink on a left hand bend (depending on which way it's linked) Where as rh and lh bends are the same with a watts.
      PHB is probably fine for the road and you may not tell the difference under normal driving, but I'm going for the watts as I like doing things right (or is that the hard way?)
      Tom

      Race Engine Design Engineer




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com