I Want an overdrive trans

[GRNOVA]

I currently have a reverse pattern th400 with a trans brake w 4.56 gears out back. My question is what kind of trans do you reccomend me to purchase w overdrive. Maybe a paddle shifter in the future?

[Steve Chryssos]

Crown Point, IN puts you about 200 miles from the sharpest pro-touring transmission builder in the country--Bowler Transmissions. That's good news. A direct response to your question requires that you elaborate on your engine specs as well as your intended application. If a paddle shifter is in your future, it is strongly recommended that you choose an electronic transmission.

[neki67]

First of all: search is your friend.

4L80e and 4l60e both will work but 4l80e is the stronger. Mark Bowler (in coop. with Steve Chryssos) has an upgraded 4l60e that also allows for engine braking and can be controlled by a paddle shifter. Have a look: http://twistmachine.com/shopping/ind...0201e7b80707ad

There are more budget friendly options available but the above is the best you can get for your PT-ride.

[GRNOVA]

I think a road trip is in my future.

A direct response to your question requires that you elaborate on your engine specs as well as your intended application.

I have a B&M pro charger 250 w cam, Demon 900 race carb, sbc 383. AFR heads block hugger headers and 3" exhaust I have 475 rear wheel horsepower. Looking to autocross the car (65 Nova).

[Steve Chryssos]

Checked your pix. Killer car and impressive results. Assuming 20% drivetrain loss: 475 divided by .8 equals 594HP at the flywheel AND 594/383= 1.55HP/cube. Those are big numbers. Maybe you have 25% drivetrain loss and we should recalculate? Doesn't matter. Either way, 475 rear wheel is a lot of beans. So your kick ass engine has priced you out of the $1795 too good to be true overdrive transmission. Those are typically just tarted up stockers with HP frictions and not much more. They're good for about 360 rear wheel.

So...you can choose a built 4L60E. They are somewhat smaller, lighter more efficient. But they tend to cost more at your power levels. 80's will handle close to 550 Ft-Lbs in stock form so lots of people look for deals on basic, upgraded rebuilds.

You can forego the computer and paddle shifter by choosing a built 200R4 or even a very carefully built 700R4. What you lose with a pre-electronic trans is tunability. You can custom tune an electronic trans to your exact vehicle specs and driving preferences.

[ty1295]

I think I would do bowler and an 80e. By the time you upgrade the 60e to hold, you can just about buy the 80e which in stock form (rebuilt) is about as strong if not stronger than any built 60e.

I would personally disagree about 80e not being as efficient though. Changed a truck from 700 to 80e and it went faster. Now it could be the different 1st gear ratio, but I don't think it was all that. For sure it didn't go slower.

Bowler is a great guy. Tell him Jeff with the syclones said hello.

[1969CamaroRS]

Steve,

I am thinking of a similar deal, 4-spd electronic overdrive with paddle shifters. (Have a 700R4 I want to put in temporarily until I afford to get a good trans).

I have been drooling over the 4L65RR Manumatic System coupled with your paddle shifters. Are the Bowler transmissions rated at flywheel or rear wheel torque? My car would be mostly a street car, but I would like to be able to take it to the track and put slicks on it and not worry about breaking parts. What would you recommend for a BBC with about 600ft/lbs at the flywheel? Would the 4L65RR work or would I end up breaking parts and should go with a 80E?

Thanks!

[Steve Chryssos]

I think I would do bowler and an 80e. By the time you upgrade the 60e to hold, you can just about buy the 80e which in stock form (rebuilt) is about as strong if not stronger than any built 60e.

I would personally disagree about 80e not being as efficient though. Changed a truck from 700 to 80e and it went faster. Now it could be the different 1st gear ratio, but I don't think it was all that. For sure it didn't go slower.

Bowler is a great guy. Tell him Jeff with the syclones said hello.

I'm with you. That's why I said "somewhat". Most people over exaggerate the 4L80E's parasitic loss. If the numbers are big it's usually due to improper converter selection design--which is slippage not parasitic loss. Same goes for weight and size. 80's are bigger and heavier but not much.

What I really like about the 60's is that shifts seem to come faster and more cleanly. And nothing seems to shift as fast or as good as Bowler's 4L65 in my Camaro. Everyone who has driven or been driven in my car agrees unanimously. Shifts are lightning quick but never harsh regardless of gear change or throttle angle. Amazing. Words can't describe it. You gotta trust me or go for a spin.

In pro-touring, there is a quest for top technology. I used to recommend 4L80E's more readily. In fact, one of our house cars, Hoover has 460 RWHP and 450RWTQ. It has an '80 based on my former, pre-4L65RR logic. But that car really could benefit from one of these high tech 60's

From 600FtLbs FWTQ on street tires and down, I recommend well built '60's or budget 80's. On up, it's all '80's. Cars that run slicks usually lean towards '80's. Gotta look at output and usage. This is pro-touring, so some guys want the best and coolest technology available--regardless of price. Until the 6L's are readily adaptable, the 4L65RR is the coolest thing out there.

[Steve Chryssos]

Steve,

I am thinking of a similar deal, 4-spd electronic overdrive with paddle shifters. (Have a 700R4 I want to put in temporarily until I afford to get a good trans).

I have been drooling over the 4L65RR Manumatic System coupled with your paddle shifters. Are the Bowler transmissions rated at flywheel or rear wheel torque? My car would be mostly a street car, but I would like to be able to take it to the track and put slicks on it and not worry about breaking parts. What would you recommend for a BBC with about 600ft/lbs at the flywheel? Would the 4L65RR work or would I end up breaking parts and should go with a 80E?

Thanks!

Ed,
You're kinda borderline, but I'm thinking 4L80E for you. Only because of the slicks.

[Steve Chryssos]

Let me clarify: Mark's stuff is conservatively rated. But I share in that philosophy. No one will ever accuse me of being conservative, but when it comes to taking someone's money--there is no other approach. If you wanna gamble a little, that's cool. You're the only one that truly knows how hard you will beat on your car. Let's see how well your 700 holds up. Just make sure it's adjusted 100% properly. Even the, a 700 is a poor indicator for a well built 60'. Electronic tuning, plus core design improvents put the '60 light years ahead of a 700.

[1969CamaroRS]

I left off the car is mini-tubbed so I can get some decent sized tires (and slicks) on the thing. The 700R4 is an old trans (probably needs rebuilding anyways) that came with the car and is just a stop gap so I can drive the dang thing a bit while I save up for a trans. I fully expect to break it .

I love the tunability that a electronic trans offers along with your paddle shifters. The car is more setup for handling than drag, but still be nice to lay down some decent times on slicks. Thanks for the info.

[Steve Chryssos]

Give myself or Mark at Bowler a call when your 700 starts to squeal like a pig. We'll make your paddle shifter black to keep up the stealth theme.

[ty1295]

Being in the AWD world we tend to punish the tranny a bit more, basically your comment about slicks applies when you have AWD.

And I would agree with you for 80% maybe more cars being built the 60e is just fine. Heck the 60e in my 95 tahoe has 175k miles on it, did a lot of towing and is still running just fine.

My typhoon though, all 80e but I have a few bucks thrown into it. Anybody say transbrake I have never hooked up yet?