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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Posts
      292

      intake and carb installation need advice

      Wsup fellas

      Trying to figure out should I try to put my intake and carb on my 70 chevelle or should a take it to a auto shop. I purchased a used (about a 100 miles, Looks brand new) holley 600 cfm and a e-brock rpm intake. Should I try to tackle this myself or let someonelse do it? Is it that hard of a job? Or just bolt on instuctions? I am thinking I will need to something with the distrubutor (stock). Any advice would be greatly apprciated.


      Thanks--You guys never steered me in the wrong direction yet.

      SSG D



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2008
      Location
      Calgary, AB
      Posts
      71
      That is an open ended question.

      How big is your engine? Is it a single or dual plane? Is your car an automatic or manual? These are not related directly to the installation of the carb and intake, it's more of a component matching question.

      Are you willing to make adjustments or modifications yourself?

      As for the installation proceedure, I would say jump in. An intake and carb swap is a very simple process.

      The component that takes the most time is the tuning of each circuit for optimum performance after the installation.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Posts
      292
      sorry. the application is a 350 and the intake is dual plane. the car is a automatic

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2008
      Location
      Calgary, AB
      Posts
      71
      Then definately!!!

      It's a simple swap, and sounds like a good solid street package.

      You should be quite happy with the results. Depending on maximum RPM and camshaft, the carb might be a little weak on the top end. But, for regular use the Performer RPM intake is tough to beat, and offers a broad torque band.

      Have fun!

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Posts
      292
      Thanks for motovation. But now I need the knowledge. What needs to be done to make this happen. Sorry to be so newbielized about this lol. If you can offer barney-type instructions that would be awesome!!!!!. both parts are used with no bolt-on instructions. So Im clueless to how to get started.

      THANKS SO MUCH

      Staff Sergeant D

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2008
      Location
      Calgary, AB
      Posts
      71
      1. Make sure your substrates are clean before dismantle.

      2. Find top dead center, make sure it's not bottom dead center.

      3. Mark distributor and rotor location

      4. Drain coolant and remove upper radiator hose

      5. Remove heater lines if required

      6. Remove distributor, fuel lines, linkage and valve covers

      7. Remove intake manifold bolts (remove carb if desired, not required)

      8. Pry intake off manifold

      9. Transfer over thermostat and housing (if being reused)

      10. Inspect distributor for wear (peformance rebuild?)

      11. Cover all engine openings

      12. Scrape all gasket surfaces, clean all surfaces with desired "cleaner"

      13. Install new intake gaskets (RTV silicone as required)

      14. Place new intake in place

      15. Install intake bolts torque accordingly (see manual for sequence)

      16. Install upper radiator hose

      17. Install carburator, connect fuel lines, linkage, install valve covers

      18. Install distributor in appropriate position

      19. Replace coolant, perform oil change (recomended)

      20. Start car, run to operating temp, watch coolant, replace as needed

      21. Set timing, and tune carburator.

      22. Smile. You're done.


      If I missed anything, feel free to chime in, it's almost second nature for me now, I'm sure I missed something.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Huntington Beach, CA
      Posts
      2,420
      Country Flag: United States
      Mommy Wagon summed it up pretty well.

      I'll add a few tips since it sounds like you haven't done this type of thing before.

      Tools you will need or want:
      Basic socket set
      Torque wrench that adjusts to 25 ft lbs
      Gasket scraper
      timing light
      You may also need an open end wrench set depending on intake design and linkages.

      Other installation items:
      Intake gasket set.
      Distributor gasket (if intake set doesn't come with one)
      Carb mounting gasket
      aircleaner mounting gasket
      Thermostat housing gasket
      Silicone
      Gasket remover or some type of cleaner to clean up the mounting surfaces
      Rags/shop towels
      marker
      Depending on the condition of your existing equipment you may need additional or to replace fuel lines or vacum lines or hose clamps, pipe fittings (to block vacum ports into the intake) etc. Inspect your current setup in advance of a trip to the store.

      Helpful tips:
      -Distributor alignment. Since you are swapping intakes there is no good way to ensure your timing isn't changed other than using a timing light to set it after installation of the new parts. However, it itsn't necessary to find top dead center and even if you chose to do that the following will help. Before removing the distributor, use a visual reference not related to the intake to note the current position such as the vacum port posiiton or mark a terminal on the dist cap and firewall. Then remove the distributor cap and mark the position the rotor is pointing to on the distributor with a marker. When you reinstall the distributor just make sure that the distributor is lined up with your reference and the rotor is pointing to the mark you made. Note when dropping in the distributor you have to posiiton the rotor just slightly counterclockwise to your mark as it will rotate a few degrees when the gear contacts the camshaft.

      -Intake & carb ports. Ensure that you have identified each place your vehicle currently reads vacum from and replicate on your new intake. You may find that the new intake has more ports than the old and may need to buy plugs to seal them. Also, make sure you check your current vacum advance setup on the distributor as to whether it's porterd vacum or not. That is to say does it draw vacum at idle or not? Make sure you hook to the same port type on the new carb. You can check by looking up carb schematics online or running the vehicle as is and pullling the dist. vacum advance hose at idle and see if you are getting vacum. yes? not ported. No? then it's ported.

      -End seals on the intake. Most people I know do not attempt to use the rubber seals from an intake gasket set at the front and rear of the intake. instead use a 3/16" or 1/4" bead of silicone to seal these locations.

      - torqueing the new intake town. Torque specs are 25 ft pounds. Tighten in a outword patern starting with the center bolts and working outwards evenly switching between each side.

      I'm sure I forgot some things and I'm also sure that if you spend some time on google you can probably find someone who has posted a guide with pictures on doing this.

      Good luck.
      Please Subscribe to the AutoXandTrack YouTube Channel

      Autocross and track blog about running autocross and track events with pro touring cars

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Posts
      292
      VERY VERY GOOD INFO. some one make this a sticky. My other concern is tuning the carb. Its damn near brand new, and from waht I herad the carb comes tuned out of the box is this true. If not please give pointers.


      thx


      SSG D

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Felton, DE
      Posts
      346
      A carb rarely comes 'tuned'. It comes runnable but i mean there are WAY too many factors that contribute to getting a car tuned properly. You will need to adjust accelerater pump size, accelerater squirter size, accelerater pump cam size and setting, idle mixture, primary and secondary jet sizes, power valve size and secondary spring tension not to mention primary and secondary throttle blade idle adjsutment, and if it has an electric choke, choke timing and high idle. Mommy Wagon has been helping me with getting my carburetor tuned for the past week with my engine setup. I have spent over $700 in just my carburetor to get it right. It's pretty close just trying to get a slight lean stumble to go away now. I am running a dual wideband 02 for tuning as well which makes it even easier and still it takes some time. Once you start tuning each circuit you get the hang of it its just tedious. It may work perfect when you throw it on and just go who knows. I am just really anal about tuning my engine and want to get it the perfect AFR all the time which is hard to do with a carb atleast harder than EFI.
      1994 Z28 - 13.52@110mph 2.1 60ft T56, bolt-ons, suspension
      1978 Datsun 2+2 - 6.0L LS1 swap in progress
      1968 Firebird, 2820 dry- 2000 LS1, D&D Viper T56, RAM clutch/flywheel, 236/236 .651/.651 110+4LSA cam, victor JR EFI, 4150 TB, 42lbers, painless harness, Moroso 7qt pan, sfc, trac bars, 3" x pipe side exits, Telstars-30"MT streets/skinnies, mini-tub, 8.5" posi, richmond 4.56s, Hooker lLTs, Denny N20 DS, Fast dual wideband, Shotgun street scoop.
      http://www.myspace.com/shawnmacananny

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jun 2008
      Posts
      70
      take the cap off the distributor and mark location of rotor button on firewall if you don't do this you can accidently turn the distributor by the gear on the bottom when you take the dist out of the motor. good luck and have fun. Randy

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Posts
      292
      ok Ill tackle it this this weekend. should I go ahead and upgrade my distributor in the process and if yes. what kind? where to buy?

      Thanks for the great info, really thanks you guys are really helping me out.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Huntington Beach, CA
      Posts
      2,420
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by deeboe78
      ok Ill tackle it this this weekend. should I go ahead and upgrade my distributor in the process and if yes. what kind? where to buy?

      Thanks for the great info, really thanks you guys are really helping me out.
      Depends on whats in there. If you still have a points distributor then ABSOLUTELY an upgrade to electronic ignition is a good idea.

      If you have electronic ignition then a dist. upgrade on a simple carb and intake swap isn't really needed nor an efficient use of your budget if you are tight on funds.
      Please Subscribe to the AutoXandTrack YouTube Channel

      Autocross and track blog about running autocross and track events with pro touring cars

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Posts
      292
      How can I tell the differnce in distrubtors? I know its not of anything for perfomance.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Sep 2008
      Location
      Calgary, AB
      Posts
      71
      If it is big, and bulky looking, and the coil is intergrated into the cap then it is an HEI. If it is a separate coil, and had a wire to the middle to the cap, then swap it.

      A few manufacturers make upgrades for an HEI, rebuild it yourself. You have the ability to recurve it and upgrade the internals. This is a very simple procedure, and makes a HUGE difference.

      The only minor drawback is what will then require an upgrades after. The bonus is if you do the rebuild yourself, the money save can go into the upgrades.

      Here is the list:

      Distributor Re-curve kit (springs, weights, etc)
      Performance module (factory one craps out at 5-5500rpm)
      Performance coil
      Distributor cap and rotor
      Performance Plug wires
      Upgraded spark plugs

      Optional Items:

      CD Ignition box
      Multiple Spark box
      As well as a multitude of crank trigger systems

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      ridgefield ct
      Posts
      876
      just a double check, it's not a vortec intake/head is it? if it is the torque is different and very critical.
      work in progress--for the next 10 years.
      1987 monte carlo ss 383ci, 9.7:1, xe274 cam, vortec heads, 200r4, 3.73 posi.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Posts
      292
      yep its a point distributor. shhhhhhh. more money to be spent. Cant wait to my 09 camaro get's here So I can drive the hell out it. and dont worry about rebuilds. One more question does a holley 600 carb comes with an electric choke? I hope so and should I get the intake powder coated its not bad looking at all. I assume the gas will most likley stained the coat. And when putting the carb on the intake I noticed there should be some kind of adapter of some sort. It doese't fit flush like it should. is there some kind of adapter of some sort for this?

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Posts
      292
      Quote Originally Posted by megaladon6
      just a double check, it's not a vortec intake/head is it? if it is the torque is different and very critical.

      its a dual plane rpm intake. whats the critcal aspect?

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Posts
      292
      You guys rock. I made it happen. That was my first time. The carb does'nt have a choke cord. so I will need to go pick one up should I go electric or manual? Whats the pros and cons of having eletric vs manual?

      Thanks again mommy and chad. this should be a sticky for the great advice you gave a rookie! lol

      SSG D

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Felton, DE
      Posts
      346
      I'm running an electric choke. Drove it to work about 5am the other day. It was like 43 degrees but that was the coldest ive started it in. No problems.
      1994 Z28 - 13.52@110mph 2.1 60ft T56, bolt-ons, suspension
      1978 Datsun 2+2 - 6.0L LS1 swap in progress
      1968 Firebird, 2820 dry- 2000 LS1, D&D Viper T56, RAM clutch/flywheel, 236/236 .651/.651 110+4LSA cam, victor JR EFI, 4150 TB, 42lbers, painless harness, Moroso 7qt pan, sfc, trac bars, 3" x pipe side exits, Telstars-30"MT streets/skinnies, mini-tub, 8.5" posi, richmond 4.56s, Hooker lLTs, Denny N20 DS, Fast dual wideband, Shotgun street scoop.
      http://www.myspace.com/shawnmacananny

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Posts
      292
      So should I go electric? which would be the best for a older holley 600 cfm carb?

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