Trunk mount battery wiring question

[EFI69Cam]

I found these circuit breakers http://www.keefeperformance.com/circuit_breakers.html

Would the 150 amp one be correct for the main power wire to the engine compartment?

[Modo Innovations]

It all depends on how much extra amperage you have added to your system. I can also save you some money on this particular style. PM or call me (940) 391-9002 for a price if you are interested. I can get 60, 90, 100, 120 or 150 amp circuit breakers.

[1969CamaroRS]

Shannon anything higher? Say to use inline for a trunk mounted battery cable?

[Modo Innovations]

150 amp is the highest.

[1969CamaroRS]

Any experience with something like this?


400 Amp 12VDC fuse with holder from:
http://store.solar-electric.com/fb-400t.html

Going to mount my battery in the trunk, looking at options to protect it.

[KWIKND]

Any experience with something like this?


400 Amp 12VDC fuse with holder from:
http://store.solar-electric.com/fb-400t.html

Going to mount my battery in the trunk, looking at options to protect it.

The best way to protect your battery in the trunk is to move the starter solenoid there too. You won't have a 15' - hot all the time battery cable running through the frame, next to fuel lines ect.

Dan

[1969CamaroRS]

The best way to protect your battery in the trunk is to move the starter solenoid there too. You won't have a 15' - hot all the time battery cable running through the frame, next to fuel lines ect.

Dan

True, but I am paranoid, I think I might do both, lol.

[Jetset700]

This post is just what I'm worjing on right now!
Mad Enterprises start em up kit in the trunk seems to be the solution. You would not need to do anything else because
the hot cable is now just a foot or two to the solenoid.

Any electrical guru's please chime in with pro's & any cons.

Peter

[KWIKND]

I did the battery in the trunk with parts from NAPA. Just a FORD solenoid and some welding cable, connect the terminals on the starter.
The only down side I see to it is there is now a long alternator cable that is hot all the time. 6 AWG alternator vs 1/0 battery.

Dan

[Badley]

Ya, but you can just put a fuseable link on the alternator wire and it will melt out before anything to bad can happen with the alternator wire. At least I would think.

[Jetset700]

Yes, you want to use a fuseable link for the long run back forward.
Thats one of the main reasons to make this change in the first place. The amps on the rest of your system are so much less & you make have a safety on it.

Peter

[Vegas69]

Put a bulkhead at the firewall for your fuse block and alternator wire. That way it's not a longer run than normal. I understand the paranoya but a quality battery cable has plenty of insulation if it's routed decently. My bulkhead has a seperate battery cable after the firewall for the starter. I ran some wires off the inside of the bulkhead and some on the outside depending on where they were going. That is the best way to get the clean look we all want.

[Jetset700]

Todd, did you use a remote solenoid or just the bulkhead & good cable? Right now I have DSE battery mount, Quickcar cable to a
bulkhead, to starter. For me getting the other wires off of the starter & away from the header would be nice.

Peter

[Vegas69]

I didn't use any solenoid in the back of the car. I used the DSE bulkhead and have since found it on Summit. I also used DSE cable and it's super nice and has a ton of insulation. A solenoid out back wouldn't stop a fire unless the car is not running. A circuit breaker should stop a fire anytime.

[OHCbird]

You might want to look at their other circuit protection devices, like the Mega-fuse holders. You'll find that they go up to 300amp & aren't nearly as bulky. The setup you posted is more for DC charge circuits that don't worry about weight or packaging.

http://www.keefeperformance.com/high_amp_fuses.html

As for cable- if you don't mind the extra expense, Marine grade cable (I prefer Ancor) has better tin plating throughout the wire and is easier to solder. I also use a remote solenoid in the rear for the start cable, as it reduces the fire risk in a crash. However, Vegas69 is correct- if you isolate & protect the batter cable PROPERLY, you can use the single cable to the bulkhead fitting while running the alternator feed to the same fitting. This will give you one cable to the rear.

You'll find the items listed in the Keefe catalog just about anywhere.

[1969CamaroRS]

Thanks OHCbird, I have seen those Mega-fuses as well. Got me thinking about using a single line but putting in a Mega-Fuse holder at about 300a inline.

[Yelcamino]

Does anyone know the correct way to wire in a master shut-off switch that kills the engine to satisfy NHRA requirements for rear mounted batteries?

I recently finished moving my Chevelle's battery to the trunk with a shut-off switch but it won't shut off the engine once it's running.

[OHCbird]

That's because your alternator output is keeping your engine alive. Once it gets going, it doesn't need the battery voltage to keep charging- it becomes it's own self-licking stamp.

You need to isolate the charging side, or eliminate the direct link between the charging output and ignition voltage. This is a common problem when running a charge loop in the front; all you'll really need to do is turn off ignition (and ECM if equipped) power when you turn the switch to 'OFF'.

Give me an idea of your system (via PM if you need) & we'll get it sorted out.

Jeff

[Yelcamino]

That's because your alternator output is keeping your engine alive. Once it gets going, it doesn't need the battery voltage to keep charging- it becomes it's own self-licking stamp.

You need to isolate the charging side, or eliminate the direct link between the charging output and ignition voltage. This is a common problem when running a charge loop in the front; all you'll really need to do is turn off ignition (and ECM if equipped) power when you turn the switch to 'OFF'.

Give me an idea of your system (via PM if you need) & we'll get it sorted out.

Jeff

Sorry about hi-jacking this thread, but I thought this might be a relevant deviation from the main subject.

Anyway, Jeff, here's how I have my car wired...



The ignition consists of a MSD dizzy w/ 6A box. The box is mounted in the engine compartment.

I figured the ignition would need to be turned off when the switch was pushed, but I wasn't sure how to tie it in.

[Yelcamino]

After looking at my drawing, I think I see what I need to do... The ignition power needs to be on the battery side of the main switch so when the switch is pushed off, the ignition will be disconnected from the alternator. The way I have it now, the alternator is providing juice to the ignition regardless of the switch position.