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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      North Carolina
      Posts
      277
      Country Flag: United States

      edelbrock/MSD timing modules.

      Any experiences with either system for an LQ4? I'm leaning towards the MSD set-up but I was hoping for some input on tuning/programabilty, etc...



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      many people are running the MSD unit once they converted to carb. No real issues that I have heard of even on cammed engines. I have no personal experience with either though.

      I think Mike Norris was talking about them a while back on another member's car. Try and search on here and see if you can find it. Or contact Mike ----->
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      North Carolina
      Posts
      277
      Country Flag: United States
      I think the MSD is the one I am going to go for, but just wanted to know before I buy if there is anything I should know......

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Felton, DE
      Posts
      346
      Buy the MSD 6010 the Edelbrock box isnt tunable and all of the timing pills have over 34 degrees timing which is WAY too much. LS1s like 28. Heres what i can tell you abou the MSD box. This is a PM i sent to an LS1tech member who asked me about my victor jr intake and msd box

      Ok here we go. I plugged the rear vacuum port on mine.. You could use it for a brake booster or a PCV setup BUT any fitting will hit your carb really. The size of the fitting is 3/8" NPT. You can get those copper fittings from Lowes, Home depot any plumbing store. The hole on the side of the intake below the carb is 1/8" NPT. This is where i hooked up my MAP sensor. I took a piece of 1/8" threaded pipe, threaded it into there, then got a 5/16" or so vacuum hose and fit it over the threaded pipe and then connected that to my MAP sensor.

      For a MAP sensor you can use a stock LS1 sensor or use a Map sensor from realy anything just as long as you get the connector for it. The MAP sensor allows you to add more timing at part throttle i.e. while cruising to keep your engine burning more efficiently for ecconomy and such. It is not neccessary.

      The timing pills (your capsules) all have WAY too much timing. All of them have over 34 degrees of timing at WOT and LS1s usually dont like anymore than 28 or so. To tune the sofware you will need to download this software and buy a serial cable and a laptop that has a serial port OR you can get a USB to serial adapter cable from radioshack which is like $30.

      http://www.msdpowersports.com/prodata_software.html

      To tune it you will need to open a up a new map, search through the folders and look for one labeled "6010". That is the box you are using. This will bring up a table to tune with for your box. It starts as a line graph. You just drag the line up to the desired degrees of timing at the specified rpm. I have my base timing set at 15 degrees and going all in to 28 by 3000rpm. When tuning the sofware you must save your tune to the computer then upload to the msd box. You can monitor the engine live through your laptop too. It will tell you rpm, base timing, total timing, and your MAP pressure in PSI.

      Heres the tricky part about tuning with the MAP sensor. It measures in PSI, not HG like most all vacuum measurements are. With the engine off the MAP will read something like 14.6psi. This is atmospheric pressure. When you start the engine you will get a reading like 8.6psi. This shows the engine is pulling 6psi vacauum (14.6-8.6=6psi). 1 psi is roughly equal to 2 inches mercury (HG). Here's a chart

      http://www.erowid.org/archive/rhodiu...onversion.html


      So once you get used to that you can now add timing based on engine vacuum. I added a total of 9 degrees timing with max vacuum. So when cruising i will have 28 degrees base timing and 38 total timing. The graph for the map sensor is the same tuning method. Rather than have RPM on the x axis it has PSI and on the y axis it has degrees timing advace. It's relitively simple to tune once you get the hang of it.

      If you have the Edelbrock box you will not be able to tune the box.

      Oh and for hooking up your harness it is labeled for your coil packs (1,3,5,7) on one connector (2,4,6,8) on the other. The cam sensor which is on the back of the engine (towards back of car) right on the lifter valley cover. The crank sensor is right behind you starter motor. Then you will need to add power which is the pink wire, the tach wire is yellow, and ground is black.

      There is also an additional connector with two wires. The pink is a timing retard. When you give 12v to this wire your ignition timing will be retarded by whatever amount (4 degrees or whatever) you set when tuning it. This is for nitrous or whatever. To set the limit it is in the menu on the left of the screen that has rev limit and such. The other wire that is blue is a two step rev limiter. When you give 12v to this wire the engine will not rev above the 'lo rev' you set in your setup. This is for say launching or something. Depending on what MAP sensor you get too there is a menu option that says (1 bar, 2 bar, 3 bar) 1 bar is all you will need if you're not going boosted.

      If you have any questions setting up your carb or timing or what to buy or for pictures feel free to email me at [email protected] . For a carburetor a 750 vacuum secondary works great. 72 primaries, 76 secondaries, 6.5 power valve, and you will need a 50cc accelerator pump for the off idle stumble you'll have with the large single plane intake. If your car is about 2800-3000lbs like mine use the short/long yellow spring (i cant decide which i like better the longer yellow makes me run a little more lean like 13.4 at WOT but seems to pull harder), if its 3200-3400 used the purple spring.
      1994 Z28 - 13.52@110mph 2.1 60ft T56, bolt-ons, suspension
      1978 Datsun 2+2 - 6.0L LS1 swap in progress
      1968 Firebird, 2820 dry- 2000 LS1, D&D Viper T56, RAM clutch/flywheel, 236/236 .651/.651 110+4LSA cam, victor JR EFI, 4150 TB, 42lbers, painless harness, Moroso 7qt pan, sfc, trac bars, 3" x pipe side exits, Telstars-30"MT streets/skinnies, mini-tub, 8.5" posi, richmond 4.56s, Hooker lLTs, Denny N20 DS, Fast dual wideband, Shotgun street scoop.
      http://www.myspace.com/shawnmacananny

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      North Carolina
      Posts
      277
      Country Flag: United States
      Wow! Super response Shawn! Perfect that question is now answered, MSD for me.




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