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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      North Jersey
      Posts
      983

      Building An Addition, Got a Framing Question...

      OK, my head is spinning here - as you can see, I posted this at 2:30 AM cause I can't sleep! I need some advice from the construction experts. My wife and I have decided we're going to build an addition onto our house, and we're doing a majority of the work ourselves or with people my father-in-law worked with. He's been a mason for 50 years and used to build houses in Italy, so he's got a lot of skill.



      We're adding a 12' wide x 14' long dining area off the back of our kitchen, and then adding a bedroom above it on the 2nd floor. Now, we'd like to cantilever the 2nd floor room 2' on each side, making the bedroom 16' wide x 14' long. Our architect says 2x10 floor joists at 16" apart will be fine, but my father-in-law thinks we need 2x12s. Who's right?
      Steve Ragusa - North Jersey
      2006 Infiniti G35x
      Former Build - 1988 Monte Carlo SS - ZZ4-cammed TPI 355, F-body serpentine conversion, World-Class 5-speed, Eibachs/Bilsteins, Howe tall LBJs, 34mm hollow front swaybar, 3/4" straight rear bar, 17" Coys C55s, 12" front discs, and more. Sold on 2/28/11.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      86
      Personally, I would use TGI's on the second floor. It may cost you a little more money, but in the long run, it will be worth it. Look into those. Saves you some time also by not having to look at each 2x10 or 2x12 to figure out what side has the crown.

      Dave

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Petersham ,ma
      Posts
      522
      call the local building inspector.....codes vary area to area !

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Crown Point, Indiana
      Posts
      1,107
      Country Flag: United States
      I agree call building inspector and find out the construction codes in the area.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      charleston, SC
      Posts
      853
      Country Flag: United States
      We sell TJI's (Truss Joists) and the most common size is a 12".

      I just talked to my Engineered Wood guy and he said 2' is the most you can cantilever and you need blocking in between the joists where they pass over the lower wall. For us 12" Tj's(actually 11-7/8") are cheaper because we stock them as do most yards.
      Robert's 1969 Camaro - 2002 LS1/T56, 10pt cage, Global West Stage III front suspension, HTH truck arm rear suspension, Sprint Cup 9" full-floating rear end, Fikse Mach V 17" up front 18" in the back and still working on it...

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      charleston, SC
      Posts
      853
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by jasonsnova
      call the local building inspector.....codes vary area to area !
      So do building inspectors.
      Robert's 1969 Camaro - 2002 LS1/T56, 10pt cage, Global West Stage III front suspension, HTH truck arm rear suspension, Sprint Cup 9" full-floating rear end, Fikse Mach V 17" up front 18" in the back and still working on it...

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Tallahassee
      Posts
      295
      As noted above, this is a code issue. The 2' overhang is kinda irrelevant - the joist size and spacing is what matters.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Afton,Mn
      Posts
      181
      If your doing the work yourself the tj's will be alot easier to handle also. Your back will thank you.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      Easton, PA
      Posts
      989
      Country Flag: United States
      even if codes allow for 10", I would go for the 12" TJI. you won't regret an overbuild, but underbuilt sucks.
      Keith C.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Houston, Tx
      Posts
      340
      You're near the limit of the 2X10 without the overhang. Use a 2X12 at a minimum and get some sleep.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      86
      What did you decide to go with?

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      North Jersey
      Posts
      983
      Well, we're waiting for the next round of design/blueprints from the architect to see where we're at. But it's funny, after I posted this thread, I looked at the joists for my 1st floor from the basement. My house is just over 24' long, and has 2x10 floor joists that run that length spaced every 16". Our house was built right around 1939, so it's just about 70 years old. Our first floor doesn't creak, and we've had a heavy mud-job ceramic tile floor on top of more than half of it for the last 6 years. But, the house is straight up so the weight is more evenly distributed. Since we're planning a 2' overhang for each side it may really stress a 2x10. I looked up the TJIs that scogin and twosaturns recommended, and they look like great pieces. I also like natural lumber, as does my father-in-law. We see these new houses going up with the engineered/glued wood, and I'd be leary of using something like that. Like I said, my house has been here for 70 years, and I hope it'll last at least another 70. That would make me 105 years old.
      Steve Ragusa - North Jersey
      2006 Infiniti G35x
      Former Build - 1988 Monte Carlo SS - ZZ4-cammed TPI 355, F-body serpentine conversion, World-Class 5-speed, Eibachs/Bilsteins, Howe tall LBJs, 34mm hollow front swaybar, 3/4" straight rear bar, 17" Coys C55s, 12" front discs, and more. Sold on 2/28/11.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Posts
      141
      Its hard to compare the lumber from back in the 1940s when that house was originally built...for one take a measuring tape and you will see those beams are most likely larger or close to being 2x10s...compare that to the diameter of lumber you get today of the same dimensions. And where i live we use to have plenty of Fir wood that we used in construction...that stuff is tough as nails..it barely warped..and you could barely drive a nail in it once it aged. Now we use crappy Spruce wood...which is prone to warping is smaller in diameter and not even close to being as strong. I have a 1960s built house that is completely Fir wood construction...its solid as heck...i wouldnt even begin to compare the framing of this house to even a custom built house built today.
      So my opinion is ...dont stick to minimum code! use a 2x12 and you wont have to ever worry about issues with the framing in the future. For the price difference its not worth worrying over..invest the extra money in structure!

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jun 2005
      Location
      San Mateo,Ca
      Posts
      45
      If your unhappy with 2x10 use 2x12. The architect should know the correct sizing of the floor joist and the local codes, if he doesn't then find another architect. Also the city should have reviewed the plans and ok'd the drawings. It never hurts to overbuild if you can afford it.
      Larry

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Macon, Ga.
      Posts
      8,085
      Country Flag: United States
      2x10 is plenty for 12' span
      Even if you use 16' you are fine since you are breaking them at 2' and 14 foot.
      Bill

      Trailers are for BOATS!




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