Alternator sizing

[DLinson]

My Powermaster 1-wire 100 amp altenator shot craps after only 2000 miles.

I have a painless 18 circuit harness. I'm running AC, dual spal 11 inch fans, power windows, electric door solenoids, EFI, electric fuel pump, sterio with a 450 watt amp, and the other normal electrical items.

I'm wondering if the load was too much for the 100 amp alternator. I have the altenator wire hooked up to the positive side of the starter along with the main battery cable and another wire that supplies the wiring harness with power. I also have 50 amp fuse between the harness and the altenator.

I ordered a new altenator so I can get it going as soon as possible, I need to get a sate inspection before the end of the month.

Thanks for any info.

Dennis

[HILROD]

I started using the CS130 105 amp alternators a few years ago, haven't had one fail yet. It's probably the one wire part that's trouble. It's even worse with a remote mounted battery.

[6'9"Witha69]

I started using the CS130 105 amp alternators a few years ago, haven't had one fail yet. It's probably the one wire part that's trouble. It's even worse with a remote mounted battery.

+1.

[MonzaRacer]

Actually for a little more look into the CSI144 versions, 120-140 amp models and should fit with little or no mods to mounts.
I use the old AC Delco partnumber 321-411. I can get them for a little over $125 and a core sometimes. Ill look up the new number I have it somewhere but cant remember it.
I use 2 wires to the plug, the 12 v key on and loop the larger guage wire from plug to the battery terminal on back of alt, my old one went from 1994 to 2006 so it paid for its self.
I also use the smaller PM style starter (spec the 94 K2500 with 350 or 454) this one has permanant magnets and is much smaller (used it on my Monzas).

[MarkM66]

Dennis,

There's a place out in Wentzville that could of rebuilt and upgraded that alt for you.

[BBC6SPD]

I have the altenator wire hooked up to the positive side of the starter along with the main battery cable and another wire that supplies the wiring harness with power.

Thanks for any info.

Dennis

Dennis -

I had similiar issues in the past. Anything you can do to reduce resistance in the circuit will help. Such as:
1) Upgrade the altenator wire to the battery to a good 6 or 4 ga wire.
2) Connect the altenator wire directly to the battery if under the hood. If a truck mount, consider item 3
3) Use a remote starter solenoid (Ford) and move the main power wires off the starter terminal.

Just a few ideas that may help even if you decide on a different altenator all together.

- Tony

[6'9"Witha69]

2) Connect the altenator wire directly to the battery if under the hood. If a truck mount, consider item 3

I don't recoomend this at all for remote sensing setups. All else I can agree with.

[BBC6SPD]

I don't recoomend this at all for remote sensing setups. All else I can agree with.

Just curious, for our benefit, why you would not recommend? Thanks - Tony

[6'9"Witha69]

Putting that much charge directly to the battery to support keeping proper 13.5-14.2 volts at the dash would nmean putting about 16 volts to the battery. That can kill a battery over a short time. The factory didn't run straight to the battery either.

[gmachinz]

I would suggest using a power junction on the firewall and run at least a 6-gauge wire from the alt. charge post to it and on the opposite side, connect your voltage sensing wire along with all your accessory wires as well. I'm doing a 66 Chevelle at the moment and I have (overkill, but wth it's exta wire, might as well use it) 1 gauge Taylor power wire running from the alt. charge post to a power junction. From there, I run a 1-gauge lead to the rear trunk mounted Ford style solenoid from the mini-starter. I also run a 6 gauge wire from the power junction to the battery for charging and a 14 gauge wire for the ignition lead to the solenoid. This car has a lot of custom electrical work so I am using weatherproof relay and aux. fuse panels on a custom bracket located where the factory battery location is under the hood. They will all see power via a bulkhead style connection feeding from the main power junction. All power for relays, fuses, etc. will come via a 4 gauge wire and a 150-amp fuse protection. I would strongly suggest using a 3-wire and ditch the 1-wire alternator. This Chevelle will see a 120-amp alternator but I can upgrade 6" cased alternators up to 175 amps. -Jabin