What model Mig

[Young Gun]

I have seen what you guys suggest for a mig welder...but I need to know specifically what is a good unit... I have com to the decision that I should at least try and learn body work, if I screw it up somebody can fix it...it has to get done any who, I might as well try and save myself a few bucks...anyway, I was looking and found this unit...do you think it would be good for replacing quarters, trunk pans, and various other body work? if not what would you suggests...

thanks

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

[XLexusTech]

I have a hobart 140 and I sware by it. Love it.
My firs choice would have been a miller 135 but their more expensive.

[01somta]

In my opinion I would spend the extra $100 or so and get the Lincoln 175. I believe the 175 is discontinued so you can get them little cheaper on ebay.

[MrQuick]

I believe the 185 replaced the 175...could be mistaken. But thats an excellent kit for the price. I'd spend the extra money and pick up an auto darkening helmet.

See if this guy has either the 175 or 185. no shipping charges.

http://cgi.ebay.com/MILLERMATIC-140-...742.m153.l1262

I personally like Miller products just for the service and reliabiliy. I've owned several Linc's in the past and the machines are good but customer service needs help.

[rubadub]

Heres some thicknesses you will be running into. http://www.1969supersport.com/smthoughts.html

Now lets say the .034 thickness, a car thats 30 or 40 years old, you might find some of it is thinner then that, then you sandblast it or grind on it, it can get pretty thin.

Trying to weld this thin metal can get kind of nasty, and I know the millers are a little pricey, but if theres anyway you can swing a miller 110 mig, with 75% argon 25% co2 buy it, it is about as good as you can get.

Rob

[rubadub]

Maybe this will help explain the metal thickness deal I just talked about. This first picture http://www.1969supersport.com/sandblst7.html

You can see the little dimples or pock marks, lets say this wasn't sandblasted, so a guy sands or grinds on it, well to get it clean you are going to have to remove some metal, so the .034 thickness might be down to half that thick. I'm referring to the overall panel, not the half a dozen dings in it.

Anyway, hope I explained it okay.

Rob

[Twentyover]

There's been a huge amount of integration in the welder market in the last couple years. Basically, the 2 US manufacturer's are Miller (blue) or Lincoln (red). Smaller brands like Hobart (gold) have been purchased by the big 2. Basically, you can't go wrong getting a US built machine,

A large manufacturer in Europe (think it's Century) provided stuff for Snap-On, while the electrics stuff is robust, some of it's gas handling parts proved quasi-cheezy.

For me, what can I say about HF? Like most of their stuff, it's a crap shoot. I'm not a gambler, so I'll stick with the US stuff.

I'd also look at a 220V unit with a capacity of about 175 amps. The big voltage gives reserve capacity (machine has better duty cycle at the currents you run) and you can get into larger materials for when you fab structural parts.

[edog1]

Buy millermatic 180 or equivalent gas ready 220 volt machine. I would encourge you to buy the largest welder your budget will allow. If you go with the larger machines you can add a spool gun at a later time and a lager welder will allow you to weld thicker material with a single pass.
Another consideration if you get a larger frame machine like the millermtic 212 you can run the larger spools of wire and it will save you about a $1 per pound when buying wire.
I know it get pretty expensive when you add everything up up but its cheaper to buy now than having upgrade later.

[Young Gun]

My problem is that we dont have a 220volt plug in the garage, at least I don't think we do. Therefore I'm pretty limited, and that's pretty inconvenient.

Where would everybody recommend buying from? Are there any sponsors here I can support?

[Roger M]

I would go along with everyone that recommends the miller 175( or whatever the current model is). I dont have a welder yet, but that is the welder I plan on buying when the funds are available. Vince (aka MR Quick) has a good idea about where to get a good deal on one. The only drawback to buying online is that you wont have as good of support/customer service as you would if you bought locally, if something went wrong.
My garage didnt have a 220v outlet either, so i asked an electrician that i met on a job about how to put one in. It was pretty simple as long as you can get wire ran from your breaker box to the garage. You should also make sure that your circuit panel can support the extra power demand. I did it myself and I am not eletrical genius. I needed that power to run my compressor.
I would bet that some of the electricians that frequent this site can chime in and give you some advice. I do not recommend atemping this project with some good guidance first. Electricity is not something to take lightly. Good luck.

[Young Gun]

Yah I was afraid it would mean I had to run a line. The breaker box is on the opposite side of the house...

[Roger M]

My breaker box is also on the other end of the house,. I just rand my wire in the crawl space and then used conduit where the wire had to be exposed in the garage.

[Twentyover]

My problem is that we dont have a 220volt plug in the garage, at least I don't think we do. Therefore I'm pretty limited, and that's pretty inconvenient.

No electric cothes dryier or stove outlet nearby?

Put a 35 or 50 amp outlet on the face of the circuit breaker box, and attach it to it's own breaker or a 50 amp breaker for the Dryer/Stove.then run a 0 or 00 flexible wire to the welder in the garage. Plug it in when you want to weld, unplug and coil when you're done.

And you didn't hear that from me, because I wouldn't do domething like that when i lived in CA, since it would not be to code. Are we clear on this?

When I wasn't running the 250 amp tig, the 50 amp breaker wouldn't cycle after 4 or 5 minues of low power use (the synchro-wave 250 runs about 35 amps to turn it on. would run about 15 minutes idle before it tripped a breaker. 100A service in a house built in 1955, had seperate 50 amp to support the welder.

Typically, a 175 amp mig will chew up about 35 amps running full boogie (did I just say boogie out loud?)

[slick72]

I've trusted my HTP America for several years now. They sell a variety of sizes to fit your budget and stand behind what they sell. All cooper wound transformers and no plastic parts in the wire feed mechanism. Check them out on the web at www.htpweld.com. I just called Chicago, told them what I wanted and it arrived at my door in just a few days! They have a unit that will be more than sufficient for body work in the 120 -140 amp range that will run on 110V and they have a 3 year gurantee!

[MrQuick]

I would go along with everyone that recommends the miller 175( or whatever the current model is). I dont have a welder yet, but that is the welder I plan on buying when the funds are available. Vince (aka MR Quick) has a good idea about where to get a good deal on one. The only drawback to buying online is that you wont have as good of support/customer service as you would if you bought locally, if something went wrong.
My garage didnt have a 220v outlet either, so i asked an electrician that i met on a job about how to put one in. It was pretty simple as long as you can get wire ran from your breaker box to the garage. You should also make sure that your circuit panel can support the extra power demand. I did it myself and I am not eletrical genius. I needed that power to run my compressor.
I would bet that some of the electricians that frequent this site can chime in and give you some advice. I do not recommend atemping this project with some good guidance first. Electricity is not something to take lightly. Good luck.

He's a factory dealer and you do get a warranty card that is recognized by your local Miller dealer. I recommended the autoset cause its a great beginner machine. Set it and go.

On the 110 vs 220 deal. Most 110 migs will handle up to 3/16" MS easily. You can still do 1/4" it will just take a double pass or a switch back to flux. I don't see the need for a larger machine in Colins case, unless he plans on doing a lot of 1/4"+ jobs on a daily basis. TIG would be another story.

Search around for recommendations and see which machine will suite your needs.

[Young Gun]

Thanks a lot Vince, you've been really helpful with all my questions lately, I appreciate your patience immensely.

I am gonna call an electrician and see what it would cost to run an outlet into the garage. Anybody have this done before?

[XLexusTech]

Thanks a lot Vince, you've been really helpful with all my questions lately, I appreciate your patience immensely.

I am gonna call an electrician and see what it would cost to run an outlet into the garage. Anybody have this done before?

Yep I went down that path got some quotes then took another tact.
I called a few folks that do this stuff for real. One Mustle car metal builds cars from scratch. He uses and 110 from start to finish.
Another a local builder I have knoen for 20 years. Lastly Not being an experinced welder I tokk a class. The teacher a retired ship builder.

All had the same advice go with the 110 for what you want to do and your experience level.
I bought the hobart 140 after doing research on the lincon. specifially the homedepot and other discount versions. They break and the duty cycle leaves much to be desired.
I wish you lived near me I would invite you over to use mine. BTW I have done 1/8 tube like nothing great penatration perfect bead.

[Young Gun]

Well I ended up going with the millermatic 140 with autoset...it is supposed to arrive tomorow so I will be picking up scrap metal and giving that a shot... I also need to get some shielding gas...what do i need to google to find a local place? (I havent had any luck yet)

[jackfrost]

try 'welding supply'. if they don't have it, they can tell you where to get it.

[rubadub]

Get a good sized gas bottle of 75% argon 25% co2 and .023 wire.

You just bought one of the best welders out there for auto restoration.

Rob