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    Thread: dana 60

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Crown Point, Indiana
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      1,107
      Country Flag: United States

      dana 60

      It is time to order some new wheels. One question I have is ,drum verses disc, Will this make a diference in ordering a wheel. I want to put some 20" wheels on the dana 60 with a 295/40/20. What set up should I look at so I do not have to do this twice,wheel / disc/ tire?
      This will be going on my 65'.Name:  DSC02423.JPG
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    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Patterson, NY
      Posts
      784
      I may be wrong, but drums or disks, it should be the same for wheel fitment. 20" wheels give you lots of room for brakes!
      The rotor should be about the same thickness as the drums, where they mount to the axle flange.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      NW Oregon
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      581
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      I think it will depend on what drums you have now and what disc brakes you are getting.

      Do the brakes first then measure for wheels maybe?? A 295/40/20 is like 29.5" tall......pretty tall tire. After all you dont wanna be rollin 20's with drum brakes lookin thru
      RobS
      71 Demon, 6.1hemi, paddled 4l65e, AlterK, Tri4,

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
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      Discs tend to be about 1/16 to 1/8" wider than most drum setups, the difference between the thickness of the hat of the drum and the hat of the rotor being used.

      You can go big inside 20's so long as you can fit the calipers behind the spokes, which is never a given. Even a relatively small caliper like the rear C5/C6 can have major fitment issues depending on the wheel design and offset. The sweet phat lip design on many of today's wheels tends to push the spokes into the face of the calipers, regardless of wheel diameter. It's my opinion that you're typically safer to determine what your braking needs are and how you plan to fill them before you drop a bunch of coin on wheels.

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Crown Point, Indiana
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      1,107
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      Thanks for your input everyone. I am planning on going with Super Spokes (--as soon a the group buy starts again-- ) and a 13" rotor, I am running wilwoods on front. I thought about doing the disc setup first ,just trying to save time, but believe me I would rather save the coin by doing it ONCE. Just want to make sure everything is in order before I make the plunge.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Crown Point, Indiana
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      1,107
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      Here is a pic of my axel form the dana 60. I am trying to find the measurement of the offset but am a little confused on where to measure from. And trying to figure out if I have a green bearing or not? I am a little ( alot) confused, and want to order the right setup. Can someone please help? This may be easy and I am reading into it to much. The measurement I came up with is 2 and a heavy 1/4".
      Thanks in advance.


    7. #7
      Join Date
      Dec 2002
      Location
      Lost Wages, Nevada
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      2,683
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      Oooo... welded retainer. Big mistake.

      Install the axle into the housing end and measure from the surface of the housing end flange... to the wheel flange surface of the axle. That will give you a better measurement than a 'heavy quarter'.

      Cant really say about the bearing and its age... but it looks to be clean and possibly have had little use... no discoloration, o-ring not flat... etc.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
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      Crown Point, Indiana
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      Why is a welded retainer a big mistake?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Dec 2002
      Location
      Lost Wages, Nevada
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      2,683
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      Well... it creates the 'failure point' for the axle shaft.

      A retainer with the correct interference fit will negate any need to tack weld a retainer. But metallurgically, anytime you weld on the surface of axleshaft... its a bad idea. Surface tension, tortion and normal loading will propagate stress risers. Those stress risers will lead to radial cracks... which will lead most likely to a tortional failure. Especially with the tires in the back ground of that picture.

      Am I saying that it cant be done? No... I have seen quite a few live up to some good abuse.

      Will it fail 100% of the time? No... but its not a question of "if"... its a question of "when" it will fail.

      It is just frowned upon as 'bad practice' in the industry.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Crown Point, Indiana
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      Is there a way to save these axels or make them correct?

      And by the way I appreci ate all of the advice.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Crown Point, Indiana
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      The rear is all freshened up ready for axels and discs next week ...can't wait



    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Crown Point, Indiana
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      New Parts

      Just got my new brakes in today. Cant wait to get started any tips?



    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jun 2008
      Posts
      16
      Oooo... nice!

      Watch/follow torque settings closely when assembling the rotor/hubs. Also, follow the directions closely for the wire wrap.

      Post pics of your progress!

      Btw, are you running the correct green bearings on that D60? (I assume you are using mopar ends). Need the MO400 bearing.
      1970 Dodge Charger - Viper V10/6spd

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
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      Crown Point, Indiana
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      G T This may sound stupid but I have a flange that is connected to the bearing is this correct? I took the axels in when I ordered the kit 140 2117 B.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Crown Point, Indiana
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      update so far

      The drivers side is on but the bolts that go through the housing ends only thread halfway into the nuts, alittle concerned about this maybe I can find longer ones?http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/n...t=100_0190.jpg




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