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    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Eastern Virginia
      Posts
      3,965
      Country Flag: United States

      I beam vs H beam rods.....?

      Which do you prefer? Why? Why would I/should I use H beam over I beam? Looks like I beam are cheaper.



      Thanks
      Scot
      86 Monte SS



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Posts
      1,872
      H if you have the bucks and the clearance. I if you need more then stock but not as much as Warren Johnson :-)

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      Los Angeles, CA
      Posts
      1,303
      H beam usually have more clearance due to the way the rod bolts thread in to the H-beam rod. H-Beam also tend to be a lot stronger.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2002
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      1,793
      The only advantage of H-Beams is clearance. If you are building a stockish motor there is no reason to replace the rods at all
      1971 Camaro, 383 stroker ~500HP,M21 Trans with lightened flywheel. All Sorts of Auto-x Goodness in the Suspension. 12" Brakes ->SOLD

      But ask me about my 2004 STi Auto-x car...

      Just call me Brett

    5. #5
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Location
      Charlotte NC.
      Posts
      44
      I agree with Lowend. " advantage of H-Beams is clearance " But to add sometimes the H beam is a lighter rod as well.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Eastern Virginia
      Posts
      3,965
      Country Flag: United States
      Then I am going to use 6" I beam rods....

      Thanks
      Scot
      86 Monte SS


    7. #7
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      mo
      Posts
      1,343
      Might as well stay at 5.7 rod, 6 inch rods will need clearanced regardless, I'm don't like I beam rods less there billet style, Otherwise there not much better than a stock rod, thats had the beams polished. I H beamed my 355, I may spray it alittle but haven't decided the car has been retired to cruise night and car show duty now.
      Thall shall fear no amount of boost, For thy bottle is with me.......

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Eastern Virginia
      Posts
      3,965
      Country Flag: United States
      Going from a 5.7" to a 6" rod will require block clearancing even staying with the 3.48" stroke?
      Scot
      86 Monte SS


    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Posts
      1,872
      Hi Scot you confuse me. In another post your saying you have no cash to go for more then stock heads and here you talking after market rods.
      Not flaming you but just offering some advice. If you not going 383 cause you cant afford head that flow enough then why the heck would you be forking over the money on longer rods?

      How about these options, 355 stock rods and great heads cam, intake,
      This is pretty much a std for the older guys. But these days you can get much better heads,

      Or 900.00 383 stoker kit and afr 195's for another 1500.00 and you got another great little package.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Eastern Virginia
      Posts
      3,965
      Country Flag: United States
      In the other post I said this:

      "Yes I did ask about I beam vs H beam rods. I was thinking I could spend a little more on rods (if I needed to), & possibly upgrade heads later. But I am thinking I can do what I want with a set of 6" I beam rods.

      $350 vs $200 for rods is a little different than $1500 vs redoing/porting a set of stock heads."

      And to top it off I found out today that I either have to spend $7600 for a new HVAC system or $3000 to fix the 11 year old one we have.

      So I won't be doing anything with an LT1 for a while.
      Scot
      86 Monte SS


    11. #11
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Location
      Charlotte NC.
      Posts
      44
      I have used eagle and scat I beam rods on customers cars in the past . Sometimes a set of their budget rods are less expensive then getting a set of factory rods worked.

      Dont waste your money on longer rods (6 inch vs 5.7) unless you are going to do a stroker and want a internal balance. All that will do is make it harder to find pistons and give you less options.

      Power is on the top end and you dont need crazy compression to make good power.

      Get a solid bottom end and spend your money on the top end. BTW most factory parts will live if balanced,worked,and have good bolts to 6500 easy.




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