DSE or art morrison?

[rubbersdown]

Thanks for the info silver69. Honestly my gut feeling tells me to go with AME and thats more then likely what im going to do.
I am going to go with a completely shaved firewall, so do u think I should add some bars from the firewall to the front of the subframe, like the pic of hotrdblder's car up above? and sub-frame connectors?

[silver69camaro]

No, I would not add the firewall downtubes unless if you are using a 10 or 12-point cage. The additional stiffness you gain is not worth the hassle as these bars will be in the way of brake MC, header installation, etc. A good setup for road and track would be a 6-point and subframe connectors, with the roofline bars attached to the subframe.

Subframe connectors? Always!

[rubbersdown]

sounds good, I was planing on doing subframe connectors no matter what but I am still trying to decide if i am going to do a cage or not. Does anyone make a pre-built cage that has a removable crossbar and VERRY low-slung door bars? I am not racing this car so i dont need anything nhra approved or anything, just looking to stiffen the chassis. If not I guess I could just buy a 6pt kit with a removable cross bar and build my own door bars to fit my needs. I just need something that wont make it difficult for me to get in and out of my car as my back and knees are bad enough already.

[hotrdblder]

your chassis looks pretty nice, I saw your website as well. Does your website price include the shocks and spindles? also, does the chassis have all tabs to mount bumpers, fenders, and all that type of stock stuff?

yes price includes non adjustable tuned bilstein coil overs, mounting holes for rad support, bumper brackets, as well as your choice of engine mounts placed correctly so you do not need to buy 150-200 dollar adapter mounts,like the others sell. included splined sway bar also, with all susp parts, ready to bolt in, all you need is brakes and steering shaft.

[hotrdblder]

I offer a pre bent 10 point cage, my down bars tie into the forward down bars, which go down thru the dash from the halo bar, i will post pics of clearances. Also i just run a rocker bar if your not going to run an approved door bar you will get little help from it.
I disagree, bolt on forward down bars, placed at cowl seem WILL help alot.
good luck with your choice, if your serious about performance look my way.

[silver69camaro]

as well as your choice of engine mounts placed correctly so you do not need to buy 150-200 dollar adapter mounts,like the others sell.

Keep in mind those adapters let you change your engine from an LS engine to BBC or SBC on a whim. If you have them set for an LS, you're stuck with that forever (unless if you cut the mounts off and relocate). Adapters aren't a bad thing, the flexability is nice to have.

I disagree, bolt on forward down bars, placed at cowl seem WILL help alot.

I didn't say they wouldn't help, because they will...I said, in my opinion, they aren't worth the hassle when trying to replace MCs or set up steering shafts. They can be a pain! But hey, everything has an upside and a downside. But really, bolt-on downtubes wouldn't be a bad idea provided the bolt holes don't elongate over time like bolt on SFCs do. Might be something to try in the future.

[hotrdblder]

agreed, i use different style mount and i can install mounts at sbc/bbc placement for ls-1s also.

i also can change my m/c with ease.
rubbersdown, goodluck with your build any of the mentioned frames would do you good.

[XLexusTech]

I offer a pre bent 10 point cage, my down bars tie into the forward down bars, which go down thru the dash from the halo bar, i will post pics of clearances.

Would love to see pics of a nice cage. I have been looing for one that hous the a piller and goes trhough the dash further forward then they run of the mill Pre fab one available

[Corinthian]

Keep in mind those adapters let you change your engine from an LS engine to BBC or SBC on a whim. If you have them set for an LS, you're stuck with that forever (unless if you cut the mounts off and relocate). Adapters aren't a bad thing, the flexability is nice to have.

On the topic of engines in AME's sub is there any relocation from stock? I believe I read that your Max-G chassis moved the engine rearward and down, I'm wondering if that is also the case with the sub.

[silver69camaro]

On the topic of engines in AME's sub is there any relocation from stock? I believe I read that your Max-G chassis moved the engine rearward and down, I'm wondering if that is also the case with the sub.

Actually, our Max-G unibody platform has no engine mounts, so that's up to the builder. Obviously I recommend the engine placed as far back as possible.

With our F-body clip, the engine is moved slightly foward to make more room for HEI distributors. Otherwise it's stock and the slight foward movement makes no difference in weight distribution.

[billybobdupree]

With our F-body clip, the engine is moved slightly foward to make more room for HEI distributors. Otherwise it's stock and the slight foward movement makes no difference in weight distribution.

I am using a LS1 in my 1st gen. With the use of your mounts, can you tell me what the distance is from the rear of the head, (on the passenger side), to the firewall. I am currently using a factory sub and have the engine mounted at 1'' from the firewall (passenger side head). Also, are the AM exhaust header's a must with use of your frame? (Asking because I recently purchased new Stainless Works.)

[dhutton]

I am using a LS1 in my 1st gen. With the use of your mounts, can you tell me what the distance is from the rear of the head, (on the passenger side), to the firewall. I am currently using a factory sub and have the engine mounted at 1'' from the firewall (passenger side head). Also, are the AM exhaust header's a must with use of your frame? (Asking because I recently purchased new Stainless Works.)

I recently tried a set of SW headers on my AME clip for someone, not sure what the part number was. They fit more or less OK but they did not line up with the exhaust cutout in the trans crossmember. There was also clearance issues with the O2 sensor if I recall correctly.

Don

[silver69camaro]

I am using a LS1 in my 1st gen. With the use of your mounts, can you tell me what the distance is from the rear of the head, (on the passenger side), to the firewall. I am currently using a factory sub and have the engine mounted at 1'' from the firewall (passenger side head).

Our frame also puts the LS engine about 1" from the firewall as well. It's just enough clearance to snake wires behind the motor for a clean look.

Looks like Don answered your question on the headers. We always recommend our own headers, they make life very simple!