Coming Soon: 4L65RR Manumatic System

[Steve Chryssos]

That's a great combination. You have your act together. I would probably not worry too much about gear splits. Make reliability and budget higher priorities. Some examples of 4L65RR usage (3.06:1, 1.63:1, 1:1, .7:1, 3.73, 25.5" dia rear tire, 6500 rpm redline):
-On Road Atlanta, I only used 2nd and 3rd gear around the entire track.
-At the drags, I frequently launch in 1st gear, then quickly tap up to 2nd gear to reduce wheel spin, then run thru the light at the top of 3rd gear.
-On the street, I only use overdrive at regular highway speeds.



I think that a recap to yor original question might be as follows.
-There is no magic wand to make a true 550 Ft-Lb rated transmission on the cheap. 200, 700, '60, or '80, that torque capacity costs money.
-A good converter can make all the difference between the soggy performance that automatics are famous for, and the efficient performance expected from a pro-touring automatic.
-If you go electronic, you will need a computer. If you go that route, you will need to zero out the expense against greater tuning capability and the added reliability that follows. Used computers exist. Their function can almost always be verified, but beware of used harnesses.
-If you go electronic, the paddle shifter can be added at a later time.
-If you go Compushift, the on board display can be added at a later time.

Good post.