4l60e vs. 700R4

[ss dave]

I've had both now and the 700R4 seems to me to shift more consistantly. Can someone explain any advantages to the 4l60e over the 700r4.

[oestek]

The 4L60e is controlled with an electronic controller allowing you infinite tuning to match your application. You can use a TCI controller, for example, to set all your up/down shift points, converter lock / unlock speeds, shift firmness / line pressure, etc. Plus you can have multiple programs, like a "street" soft-shifting cruising strategy, and a "race" hard-shifting setting with the flip of a switch. And then there's the paddle shifting ability.... the electronic transmissions are cool!

[ss dave]

I'm using a Compushift controller, I didn't tune it but I don't believe it has the variety of programmable features that you mention. With that in mind which controller gives you the most "bang for your buck"? Thanks

[Steve Chryssos]

Most Compushift dealers, Twist Machine included, provide a base calibration. In most cases, that tune should be fairly close. Fine tuning can be accomplished either by the screws on the side of the TCU or thru the optional display. That display also has some cool features like a g-meter, stopwatch, dyno simulator, and gear/tach/speedo display. So it provides much more than just tuning capability. The display also provides the ability to switch between three shifting modes: Automatic, Switch Shift, and Full Manual.

Did you buy the Compushift controller from us? If not, call your dealer for additional tuning instructions, or feel free to give us a call either way. After a little fine tuning, you'll find that the 4L60E is a far more capable transmission. The distinction between 700R4 and 4L60E is much like comparing a carburetor to fuel injection. Both can work extremely well, but the electronic transmission is a precision instrument. Electronic tuning can also increase transmission longevity.

Keep in mind, however, that no amount of electronic tuning can make up for a "soft" transmission or an excessively loose torque converter. A shift kit is highly recommended for the trans and a loose converter can make an otherwise well built transmission feel soft.

[ss dave]

Actually Steve I purchased the unit from Mike at Compushift. The tranny is a professionally built, (after burning up the clutches in the original Performa tranny) with the accumilators removed and a custom built converter suggested by Mike. 2600-2800 stall. It has the display.

[Steve Chryssos]

Then I'm sure that Mike provided a base calibration. As long as the TPS is calibrated properly, go ahead and increase the line pressure. Call if you need any help or tips.

[ss dave]

Thanks Steve, I'm looking forward to fine tuning the tranny. I'll play with it and go over the owners manual a bit more thoroughly to discover anything I've missed.

[Steve Chryssos]

Cool. Page 81: You can enter setup mode from your display and view all of the existing parameters to make sure that they are all accurate. As long as you don't push "SET" there is no danger of making erroneous changes. And if any of the settings are wrong...hit set to enter a new value.

[ss dave]

One other thing, can I change from Automatic to Manual while in idle?

[Steve Chryssos]

I'll try it here. As a habit, I switch modes with key on but engine not running.

[ss dave]

Thaks Steve, let me know. I just got the car on the road for a week after 18 mos. and haven't played with it. The old carbed 383 with the 700R4 I used mainly manual with the B&M shifter to keep in the powerband. With the new powerplant-I just put in drive, plenty of push. This week, weather permiting, I really get a chance to shake it down! YEA!