Is This True

[paulk68]

i was talking to a body guy today at work and he said that dp90 does not have a rust inhibitor (sp). I think he said the only dp is the red color one that has a rust inhibitor. Is that true??

[hotrodf1]

i was talking to a body guy today at work and he said that dp90 does not have a rust inhibitor (sp). I think he said the only dp is the red color one that has a rust inhibitor. Is that true??

Are you referring to painting over existing rust? So inhibiting the existing rust?

[paulk68]

well he said that he blast's his parts and then likes to prime with a dp 40 i think was the number he said. he said that it is a rust red color epoxy primer. he said that he likes to use that better than dp90 because it has a rust inhibitor in it. and will last longer

[danbob67]

I was thinking the only difference in the dp line or between dp40 and 90 was the colors and that they were all epoxy primers.

[HOTRODSHOP]

color is the only difference in the dp line but all the dp line is epoxy primer and the best thing to apply right after sandblasting,then do any bodywork on top of it. but epoxy is not an inhibitor,it seals the metal after blasting

[paulk68]

thanks that is what i thought, now does it matter what color you want to paint your car what color dp you should use. for example if you want a black car should you use dp 90?

[68fusion]

dp has lost the "good"....they took the lead out, hence the lf on the cans. Was told that the lead made the primer "waterproof" but not uv stable. So it still etches but dosen't seal out water quite as well aas the old kind.

[paulk68]

really that sucks. i need something that will last while i save money. is there something better out there

[BRIAN]

DP is now DPLF which means Lead Free. There is a difference. Try an etch primer or PPG NCP line which is an etc, surfacer, and sealer all in one depending on reducer and hardener used. DP never could be left for long durations without recoat or sealer coat. Many guys did but they never read the data sheets.

NCP is the simplest PPG prime system and overlooked by the old timers who insist on using DP. Spray a panel of bare metal with both and hit them both with some 36 and you will switch to etch style primers. Just my opinion.

[HOTRODSHOP]

go to southernpolyurethanes.com and check out thier products and epoxys. i have been using SPI products for a couple years and this stuff is really great. all thier products are second to none. they also have a forum you can ask questions about any product whether it be PPG or anyone elses.

[Alchemist]

DPLF has no rust inhibitors. It is an epoxy primer formulated to be applied over properly prepared metal. You're correct that the number in the DPLF is related to color e.g., DP74LF is the red oxide, DP40LF is gray green, DP60LF is blue, DP90LF is black etc.,

Take a peek at this product please:

www.zerorust.com

As for the NCP280 primer surfacer which was made to be the "do it all" product, I've had concerns using it over the years in the restoration projects I worked on. Very expensive and it had too much shrinkage though it was stated to have high solids. You also had to be very with respirator usage!! Just my experience.

Alchemist

[David Sloan]

go to southernpolyurethanes.com and check out thier products and epoxys. i have been using SPI products for a couple years and this stuff is really great. all thier products are second to none. they also have a forum you can ask questions about any product whether it be PPG or anyone elses.

I 2nd this! we have been using it for 3 years an love the stuff, we use all of Barry's products,
the clear is KILLER we have read as much as 18" from a tape measure in the finish.

The customer service is second to none!

[Bow Tie 67]

I'm waiting on my purchase from southernpolyurethanes to arrive. I ordered their black epoxy and universal clear for my roll-bar and eventual body blackout. The two gentlemen I spoke with were knowledgeable and very polite.

Years ago I used the original DP90 for my 67 which held up well, this time around I plan on using their black epoxy and then flattened universal clear for UV protection.

[Footjoy]

I have used with great results a product from Valspar called DTM which stands for Direct to metal. It was designed for Bridges and outdoor metal structures. It fills it protects and it etches.

Good luck

fj

[Alchemist]

BowTie,

"Years ago I used the original DP90 for my 67 which held up well, this time around I plan on using their black epoxy and then flattened universal clear for UV protection."

I've tried using DP90LF black epoxy and sprayed flattened clearcoat but for some reason it didn't hold up very well.

Here's a product I've used recently and it worked well and It won't chalk!

http://sem.ws/Catalog.asp?prod=272


Alchemist

[BRIAN]

NCP too expensive?? It is the lowest cost considering you only buy one prodiuct? It is a lot cheaper than buying an epoxy, high build, and then a sealer??

As far as shrinkage, it is not a high build primer. It is a medium at best. If you need more you can use a Featherfil or similar product over it.

You have to understand when someone is using products in their garage they need a very simple system where they aren't going to wind up with 20 cans that are 1/2 full at the end.

I do agree it stinks like nothing else but again nothing in there that isn't in any other product. Remember they are using the same catalysts and reducers which are the harmful part of the paint.

No argumnet here and I guess the end is DP is NOT a rust inhibitor. Then again if it seals the metal it does stop rust from forming???

[Alchemist]

Hi Brian,

Please understand that I am not wanting to debate anyone. I'm just wanting to share some information.

Thanks for the input but NCP must be priced much lower in NY than in California. A gallon of NCP280 primer with appropriate catalyst costs just over $300, NOT including reducer, which to me is pricey because you'll be using more than a gallon of primer surfacer if you're doing bodywork on the entire car - having to blocksand - reprime - blocksand etc.,. I have done quite a few "garage" jobs so I can understand about wasting product and having a "system" for painting.


I've used PPG paints since I first started learning to paint in 1971. I have been a certified PPG Paint Tech for over 15 years and remember when NCP280 first came out and used it for a couple of years. I had experienced shrinkage during that time. I know that NCP280 has been changed from a DTM primer and the NCP270 primer has also changed (in Califonia) from being used as a primer surfacer to a DTM primer with a different catalyst - this product NCP270 is a medium build primer compared to the NCP280.

I asked the same rust inhibiting question about DP many years ago and the PPG chemist I spoke with informed me that it is not formulated to "inhibit" rust - that the surface had to "properly prepared" prior to the application of DP.


You mention that NCP280 is not a high build primer - please look at the product bulletin info link:


By the way, thanks for listening!

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProduc...c-48cca3a2532e

This is what it states on the link:

2.1 VOC Primer Surfacer

NCP280

Product Downloads
TECH INFO (pdf)
English

MSDS (pdf)
English
español
français



NCP 280 is a premium quality, high build surfacer developed for today’s advanced technology finishes, such as the Deltron® and Concept® topcoat systems. It has been designed specifically for customers who require a 2.1 VOC primer surfacer and are able to use acetone as an exempt solvent.