gotta figure out some freakin' BUMP STOPS! please help!

[formula]

alright guys, I just picked up some shiny new YR1 snowflakes for the bird, and they're way sweet...but, the only problem with them is, they are 9.5's instead of 9's, so the backspace I spec'd (5.25) is pretty much a half inch less than I really need! They're being hosers on taking them back, so I'm trying to figure out alternatives. The wheels look great where they sit...





..but, as you can see, when I air out my air ride, they sit right on the fenders! I've pretty much got new bump stops figured out for the rear, as they're easy peasy, but I'm pretty stuck on the front. Can anybody out there help me come up with anything?!?!?!?!

[MrQuick]

Bump stops, you can just add spacers to the stock ones.



man that sucks....well, are they 3 piece? If so Frank at Prodigy may be able to help...if not....

You can send them to weldcraft wheels and have them adjusted.
You can add flares to the car.

[formula]

stock front stops are long gone, shockwaves have an internal bumpstop but the new wheels hit the fender before the bumpstop. bleh.

[formula]

stock front stops are long gone, shockwaves have an internal bumpstop but the new wheels hit the fender before the bumpstop. bleh.

the weldcraft idea may be my best choice. are they expensive?

[MrQuick]

About $160 each with shipping. Your a bit closer.

Or you can put the fronts up for sale and try your luck, then buy the ones you need.

[shmoov69]

Call a guy named Pat Staton that works there. See if he can help. Tony (nineball) can prolly get you his phone number also. If he can't for some reason, then a set of big fiberglass fender flares (ala-1980!) would be the ticket! LOL!

[cheapthrillz]

What about straps? Maybe connect them to the lower or upper arms and also to the back side of the frame.... might not be strong enough though (tensil strength). Maybe could put 2 on to add strenghth, but might look tacky...

I think you might end up having to weld on the lower arms if you want the traditional style bump stops.

Have you thought about calling Bret or somebody at ART and asking if the internal bumpstops can be changed? Not sure how they are constructed, but might be able to machine some new stops and have them put in the shockwaves... not sure if you can take them apart though.... give me a call if you need help!

[CHILI442]

Forget the bumpstops. You gotta get those wheels fixed!

[formula]

Have you thought about calling Bret or somebody at ART and asking if the internal bumpstops can be changed? Not sure how they are constructed, but might be able to machine some new stops and have them put in the shockwaves... not sure if you can take them apart though.... give me a call if you need help!

yeah, they said, in paraphrase, "well, it should work...", so I don't think they can be changed.

I'm worried that the polished inside might make them more difficult to reweld...I guess if worse comes to worst, I could just spend about 10 years repolishing them

[cheapthrillz]

Maybe you should put your new brakes on and see if the fronts are still out too far. Then make your decision from there. $320 to get them narrowed an inch wouldn't be bad either. Might have to run 255's or 265's instead of 275's, but it would still have a ton of rubber up front.

Or just call Frank and tell him you want your car redone with slight fender flares! Get a beater to drive around while they build it (like say a G35 sedan or something ).... I'm sure Uncle Chuck would go for that!

Or you can just wait till WE open a shop and WE can do the flares and restoration....

[Jeremy]

I wonder why they advertise them as 9 inches when they aren't. I am looking at getting a set of 17 x 9's and would have made the same mistake.

They do look incredible.

[MrQuick]

You just have to watch out for that. Always ask the total edge to edge or lip to lip.

An advertised 9" rim will actually have a lip to lip measurement of 10". They measure the inner tire bead surface distances.

[64Chevelle]

You just have to watch out for that. Always ask the total edge to edge or lip to lip.

An advertised 9" rim will actually have a lip to lip measurement of 10". They measure the inner tire bead surface distances.

Very interesting, now I understand why the stock C5 rims are 9,5" but has 275s mounted. I used to think that 275's would be too big. Do you know if this goes for all the manufacturers/advertisers?

[Ripper]

I'm worried that the polished inside might make them more difficult to reweld...I guess if worse comes to worst, I could just spend about 10 years repolishing them

Most rims that I've seen has enough material in the centers (bold pattern) to be milled/turned off 1/2 or so without weakening the rim. Have you checked that?

[Ripper]

Do you know if this goes for all the manufacturers/advertisers?

Pretty much all manufactors I've seen.
My BBS are 10,5" but 11,5" in when measured.

[Jeremy]

I agree that every rim I have had has measured one inch bigger than listed spec. That's why I was confused that the Year One Snowflakes were 9.5 as I would have expected 10 inches from outside to outside for a 9 inch rim.

[MarkM66]

Pretty much all manufactors I've seen.
My BBS are 10,5" but 11,5" in when measured.

Measuring from where to where?

[Ripper]

They are speced as 10,5" wheels, but when measured from inner to outer face, they're almost 11,5".

[MarkM66]

They are speced as 10,5" wheels, but when measured from inner to outer face, they're almost 11,5".

Edge to edge measurement is not the same as the speced "width" of a wheel.

That's how all wheels are measured.

[cheapthrillz]

Dude, if you see this post, call me! I might have figured something out.... I was looking at my truck and liked the way they did the stops on it.... requires some welding on the frame, but it still looks clean. I will try to take a pic of my truck and send it to you....