Why the Camaro is in a coma.....

[CarlC]

For the past year I have been preparing a new driveline for the Camaro. There was really nothing wrong with the previous setup, it’s just that I have always wanted to install a supercharged LS/T56 into the car. Well, it's in, but not quite ready to go.

The basic engine is nothing fancy. It’s a 2002 Z28 engine that still has the stock rings, pistons, and bearings. The internals were in superb condition for a 25K mile engine. The primary modifications are ARP rod bolts, Cometic MSL gaskets, Z06 valve springs, Ferra exhaust valves, and a Lingenfelter GT2-3 cam (207/220 @ 0.050”, 0.571”/0.578” 118.5 LSA).

The supercharger is a Magnuson Products MP112 kit that is basically a 2004 GTO setup with an LS2 throttle body and MAF. Since the GTO and F-body share the same accessory drive system it was a no-brainer. Though it does not make a ton of top-end power, it should peak at 500RWHP and make approximately 430 ft-lb of torque starting at 1700 RPM and go up from there. I’m following Magnuson’s lead on the build since the goal is to have a setup that will make really good power throughout the entire powerband, have good reliability, and get good gas mileage. It should make 27-28mpg on the highway if I keep my foot out of it. In other words, I want the best of all worlds.




The previous KSE power steering reservoir is being used but is mounted on the engine. The stock CB pump inlet was modified by Lee’s to accept a threaded O-ring fitting/-10. A close 90* by Earl’s just barely fits, but the pump is at a very slight angle. It won’t hurt performance, just looks a hair odd if you really look at it. The mounting bracket fits in a hole that clamps the upper and lower halves of the manifold base. It works fine but is cosmetically challenged. I may not change it since the air intake tubes may cover it all.

The engine mounting plates and transmission crossmember are made by ATS. The fore/aft and vertical positioning of the engine is outstanding. There is enough room for the blower and wiring harness, and the seriously thick C&R radiator/Mark VIII fan just barely fits. There is enough room to route the fuel line down the back of the engine and then across to the frame rail. This allows for at least 6” of clearance to any exhaust component in the engine bay, and since this is a C5 Corvette single-line system, the less heat into the line, the better. The flexible lines on the engine and filter are all Teflon components wrapped in silicone/fiberglass heat sleeve with shrink-wrapped ends.



The headers are from Stainless Works. With David Pozzi’s help they were modified to fit the ATS adapter plate system. The worst offending tube is #3. Here’s what needs to be done to get a good fitment:

1) Cut the #3 tube approximately 1” from the flange.
2) Cut the #3 tube approximately 1” from the start of the top/aft bend that begins at the long section heading downward.
3) Purchase a 2”R 180* stainless U-bend. Hooker makes the least expensive. One end of the U-bend leg will be used to extend the #3 tube that was cut in (2). Do not weld into place. It will need to be adjusted for length in (5.)
4) Cut an approximate 90* section from the U-bend leaving an approximate 2” straight leg on one end. The 2” leg will go aft, the other to the cut #3 tube on the flange. Leave the leg long and final fit it in (5.) This 90* section will need to be rotated counter-clockwise vs. the position of the original. This effectively moves the tube up and away from the power steering box.
5) Using the twisty removed section of the #3 tube, align it the same way as removed to the 1” section and to the aft end of the #3 tube. Also align it to the 90* added in (4). Tack weld into position.
6) Cut a small wedge radius tube to bridge the gap between the tubes.
7) Weld it all back up.

Be sure to cut in places that you can have access to with a welding torch. David had a tough time getting to one of them but he finally had his way with it.

There is a rectangular boss on the aft engine block near the deck surface that that will need to be filed down to clear the #3 tube.

The #1 tube needed an ever so slight dimple to clear the stock power steering forward/inner/top cover bolt mounted in David’s frame. Maybe 1/8” total, hardly noticeable. In my frame with the 600-series box it would not have been needed. There is enough clearance with the 600 box that no modifications may be needed.

The passenger side fits fine. It has approximately 3/8” clearance to the idler arm, and that’s more than the old Hooker’s that were supposedly made for the car.

With the modifications made the stock spark plug wires would no longer fit. So, I found some 45* boots from http://shop.kingsborne.com for a great price. The stock boot was removed, the spark plug terminal bent to a 45*, and reassembled using dielectric grease. They fit great and were very inexpensive.

In all, there’s about $40 in parts to make the modifications + welding.







The fuel tank is a Rick’s piece with a Walbro 255lph pump. Teflon lines and Russell adapters were used to connect the Corvette C5 fuel pressure regulator. On the engine side of the FPR a standard swaged-tube that snaps into the end was used. The opposite end of the tube connects to a short Teflon line so that maintenance will be easy. On stock F-bodies there is a factory hole in the top of the differential tunnel that can be used to mount the FPR.



The wiring harness is an ’04 GTO part modified to fit the ECM on the front of the LH side wheelwell next to the fender. A 4th gen bracket is used to mount the ECM. The harness is just barely long enough, and will require some measure of gymnastics to get the connectors in.

Next to go in is the exhaust, air intake, and intercooler system.

Updates to follow.

[MrQuick]

Nice work Carl, (and Mr Pozzi) thanks for the insite.

I was wondering how the mods were going.

[BossaNova]

Carl, when you pull this off, you will indeed have the best of both worlds.
Great job!
-Mark

[gearbanger]

Are the steering boxes in those cars aluminum? I would love to be able to get a lightweight aluminum P.S. box for my A-body. I wonder if that could be made to work?

[DJW32]

Great work!

[Hidro]

"430 ft-lb of torque starting at 1700 RPM" =

Very nice setup, keep us updated.

[Chad-1stGen]

Nice update Carl. I've been wondering how your swap is progressing. You do first rate work.

[Young Gun]

looks awsome! any pics of the rest of the car?

[BA.]

nice update Carl! glad to see it coming along.

I was a bit shocked to see that you had to modify the header, I hadn't heard of anyone doing that yet with those parts you have.

I'm sure you researched the hell out of the blower choices..... Is there any concern about underhood heat buildup?

[CarlC]

Are the steering boxes in those cars aluminum? I would love to be able to get a lightweight aluminum P.S. box for my A-body. I wonder if that could be made to work?

No. They are cast iron. They just look aluminum due to the ceramic coating DSE uses. The 6XX series is lighter than the original box.

looks awsome! any pics of the rest of the car?

Check my sig below.

I was a bit shocked to see that you had to modify the header, I hadn't heard of anyone doing that yet with those parts you have.

I'm sure you researched the hell out of the blower choices..... Is there any concern about underhood heat buildup?

Fitting LS conversion headers in 1st gen's is not a slam dunk unless the adapter plates, mounts, crossmember, and headers are all purchased from the same company. However, since stainless was a must, the engine needed to be back and down as far as reasonably possible, and I cannot afford ATS headers, I felt the best option was to rework the SW parts. There was no way that they would fit the ATS plates using a stock PS box. They may fit the 6XX box but I did not know, and did not have the time to wait, to find out. Better safe than sorry. The headers, as modified, are so easy to install it's not even funny. The passenger goes in from the top, and the drivers from the bottom with the car up at a reasonable working height.

The blower is the same as used in most LS1/2 applications that Magnuson builds and includes a water-to-air intercooler. I'm opting for the biggest high temperature radiator offered and will modify the hood latch support a bit to make it fit. The engine compartments of GTO's, Vette's, Caddy's, etc is a lot more compact than the Camaro's so heat buildup from the headers should not be a problem.

Magnuson has been a customer of mine since the day they opened, so you could say I've been lucky to see and touch a lot of very cool projects and the evolution of a very successful technology into our hobby.

[Young Gun]

wow just went through your site carl, and damn that is one hot camaro...nice work through and through!

[6'9"Witha69]

Carl, good to see you're progressing on the conversion. How long til she can make a run up ACH?

[Johnny Blaze]

Nice!

[David Pozzi]

Carl, Great to see your progress!
David

[CarlC]

Carl, good to see you're progressing on the conversion. How long til she can make a run up ACH?

Hey Nick,

I wish I knew. The mountain is installed, but all of those grains of sand in the shoes that wear you down are taking a lot of time.

Cold air intake: If all goes well cold air will come from the factory hole in the cowl hood. It's by far the toughest project to figure out how to get done so it works and looks right.

New carpet, relocate shifter hole and repair previous, new firewall pad, OBD2 port wiring, modifying factory speedo for electronic keeping stock face, speedo wiring, etc.

Finish underhood wiring from ECM into cabin (OBD2 port, speedo, tach, fuel relay, intercooler relay, ignition and sensor relay, etc.

Modify hood support to fit intercooler, intercooler mtg. brackets, weld new hose connections onto tanks.

Finish DSE RS headlamp door motor wiring.

It might be fall before all of the bugs are worked out. I hope sooner, but time flys and I'm not missing any of my son's baseball games or practices.

[6'9"Witha69]

It might be fall before all of the bugs are worked out. I hope sooner, but time flys and I'm not missing any of my son's baseball games or practices.

Definitely don't miss out on that. The car will be there later. The memories, you need to be there in order to create those.

[streetk14]

Hey Carl,
Glad to see that "my" engine is finally sitting in the car

So you went with a C5 regulator/filter mounted at the rear of the car? I've been thinking about changing up my fuel system due to high fuel temperatures after long driving caused by my dual line fuel system and Walbro 255 pump.

What do you plan to do (if anything) about increasing fuel pressure to compensate for boost? Are you just planning to tune for it, or what? I'm curious to hear your plan, because that C5 filter is readlily available and inexpensive.

My dual line system also makes it impossible to run those clean looking GTO engine covers sice my 2 lines won't fit inside that little tunnel in the cover.

Andy

[CarlC]

Hey Andy,

I'm not using the OE cover tunnel since the line comes up the RH side of the car. I did not want to have any more heat soak time than necessary, hence the "T" on the aft RH rail.

Magnuson is more than comfortable using the 255 with the Corvette FPR. Supposedly the tune that Germanson put in is close, based a lot on the C5/Lingenfelter LS1 GT2-3, but when the time comes they will final tune it.

[neki67]

Hate it Carl . . . .

(< me being sick from envy)

René , whowishesthathedidnotonlyhavethesamerearspringsonh iscarasCarl.

[trapin]

Nice work, Carl. I have those same Stainless Headers and they went in and cleared the power steering box with no problem using the S&P plates. The drawback however is that the engine will be far forward of where the ATS plates can get you. You made the right choice having Dave at your disposal. If I had to weld mine up I'd be lost. LOL!!!

500rwhp? That thing is gonna SCREAM!