check out this second gen !

[datsbad]

damn , i got a hard on for one of these lately . anyone else . check out this car on ebay, has some potenial . http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...523796926&rd=1

[Bill Howell]

As bad as this sounds, I like the looks of these better than the 69s, even though I own a 69. The reserve has been met so looks like a decent buy. I am not too sure about that wide alternator belt though, it just doesn't look right.

[Conekiller13]

I think that's the first time I've seen a blower belt used on an alternator.........

[WS6]

haha first thing i noticed was the cog drive belt and the fact that the parking brake must not work. theres a peice of wood in front of the rear tire on the first pic. he did a lot of things that where over kill, but they were very well done. thats a great price for that car. very nice

[Piet]

I notice that he has bumperettes... on a non RS car.

How do you make a small fortune selling a Second Gen?
.... start with a large fortune!


Piet's TOP 10 things to look for in a 2nd Gen
With help from MANY MANY others at www.nastyz28.com

1) Numbers are important for determining price. Decode the VIN and body codes. (see www.nastyz28.com for this) If you are paying for an RS... it better be an RS. Z28’s and SS 396’s and RS Camaros are highly desirable, find one if you can, but be careful of clones. It is important when discussing price. Just because it has bumperettes... does not make it a split bumper. There are a lot of pieces that make up a split bumper (the most noticable being the signal lights). I have seen many base and LT coupes sold as RS split bumpers. For RS info check here: http://www.nastyz28.com/faq/rs-faq.html

2) The rear framerails (above and in-front of the rear axle) are everything on these cars. Unless you plan to sink major bucks into the rear end anyways.... it's a non starter. Rusty frame rails are probably the hardest part to fix on these cars. They are not cheap... they are a pain to fix... and they are VERY prone to rust. Check the inner wheel wells and bottom of quarter panel while you are at it.

I know this now..... OUCH.

3) The second most common problem on these cars are the front mounting points for the rear leaf spring... many a 2nd gen has had thier rear leafs poke through the rusty floor pan....Ouch! Check for rust in the trunks as well.

4) The next rusty point is the front subframe mounting points. Many have removed a section of rusty floorpan while unbolting the sub-frame. These mounting point are prone to rust. Check the bottom rear of the fenders while you are at it.

5) Check for floorpan welding... (underneath the car and underneath the carpet) I have seen one car where they welded two halves of a car together... bad news... won't pass inspection.

6) Check for bondo or cracks between the top rear corner of the door and the rear window... telltale sign of hard driving. There is a seam here mating two body panels... poor design to make a seam on a stress point... oh well.

7) Check for cracks and rust around the windshield (it is a structural component on a 2nd Gen) Check for leaves and crap in the vents while you are at it.

8) Check door allignment crooked doors may indicate crooked body. Check the the door sills and rockers panels below the door while you are at it.

9) The hardest interior pieces to get are the interior sail panels and kick panels (the plastic ones) Interior colors are a pain to change. and these pieces are hard to get.

10) Check the interior bracing on the hood. Stiff hood hinges put extra pressure on the hood when closing, and OFTEN cracks appear on the interior braces of the hood (just infront of the hinge mount), Make sure to weld these cracks.. or one of these days the hood will fold while you are trying to close it. Then oil the hinges.

PS
- No, the clock does not work.
- Yes the front dash lip does curl. If this dash has not curled yet.... sweet.

I really enjoy mine. I STRONGLY suggest cruising www.nastyz28.com to learn more about what you would be buying. I hang out there too.

Enjoy!

(P.S. I notice that www.nastyz28.com is down at the moment.)

[bnoon]

I notice that he has bumperettes... on a non RS car.

Who cares? It's not like it's an original car anyway... Nor was it represented as anything close to an original car. Something this far from an original numbers matching vehicle doesn't apply to the same scrutiny.



Your numbers don't match! :rtfm: I'm not buying your 355 lowered suspension no inner fenders repainted split bumper non-RS Camaro... with no interior.



If I ever purchased a second gen, no matter what the year, I would put the RS split bumper front end on it. None of the others look right to me. Of course I just hate the "stock nazis" that are out there... I could buy an original (insert rarest car you can think of here) and want to hop it up, put a set of rims on it, drop the suspension... or put a set of split bumpers on it.

[Piet]

Who cares? It's not like it's an original car anyway... Nor was it represented as anything close to an original car.

The point is... be informed about what you buy. Buy the car KNOWING that it is not a true RS. If you buy a car thinking it is an RS.. and find out later it is not... you might feel This matters when talking price! ...not preference.

If I ever purchased a second gen, no matter what the year, I would put the RS split bumper front end on it. None of the others look right to me. .

I thought I would too... however, after buying mine... I have begun to like the front bumper.

HOWEVER If you do put an RS front end on it... finish the job. Converting the front end is a common modification. There are resources to tell you ALL the parts that need to be relaced to turn the car into an RS style car. Only putting bumperettes on and calling it an RS car is like putting 17 inch wheels on your car and saying it's Pro-Touring.

FYI: I am modifying my car... so I am not trying to be a "stock nazi". I don't like the look of non-RS signal lights with bumperettes.
If you do.... GREAT... enjoy.

[yody]

Nice looking car, the stance "looks" very nice, but will hardly be functional on the street, I can imagine how hard that car will bottom out on the smallest bumps! Nice color though and all around nice car

[ZZ430]

Not a bad car for the money, but yeah, it's too low for the real world.

[zbugger]

I'd love to own that car. I could really see the joy in welding a skid plate to it and taking out as many white lane markers as I could. Second Gen's Rule!!!!!

[Steve1968LS2]

I love 2nd gens.. I can never quite figure out why they are not more popular. When done up right they make for one bad ass G-Machine..

I had a 71 RS/SS that was all restored, should have kept it..

[rickk]

go to martzchassis.net check out that white - black camaro 73 rs z28

[F70t/a]

I love that stance!!! it can never be too low

[Martin71RS]

I love 2nd gens.. I can never quite figure out why they are not more popular. When done up right they make for one bad ass G-Machine..

couldn't say it better myself.....

thats why mine is staying ;-)

[CliffS]

Yeah, I second that. I love the second gens. The stance on that '70 look really nice but you will feel every little bump. I lowered my '70 only 2 inches and makes it very hard to drive in town but it's great on the highway!!
Cliff

[Steve1968LS2]

Anyone notice the missing gastank in that one side pic??? ;)

He said the paint was "daily driver", I wonder how nice it is in person??

$16k does not seem out of line.. I would have to rework the suspension though, cutting off part of 2" dropped coils can't be good for bumps.. ;)

[68BNUT]

Give it some time there prices will go thru the roof like a first gen, Dont worry about that

[yody]

i don't think he calls the car an RS does he?

[Piet]

Nope.. he does not....

This is not a big deal in my mind... Just information.

[jeffandre]

My 71 was that low at one time, not a problem if it wasn't for those darn low-hanging subframe connectors, and they only hit speed bumps. I have fairly stiff springs, fat sway bars, and Koni's so the only issues I ever really had were potholes and 1" thick steel plates used in road construction (the issues were hard, jarring hits, not bottoming). My car was killer on the highway too, but my guess is that a road racing course would have proven too much for the lowness, so my current suspension setup with the height adjustability helps (2" lowering blocks on rear, can change to smaller/none in 30 minutes or less; VB adjustable spring setup on front).