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    Results 1 to 12 of 12
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Chicago
      Posts
      41

      Pin Hole Rust Repair

      Hey Guys,

      I'm comming to the knowledge well for some suggestions. I just got my Cuda back from the blasters, only to find some pinhole rust in a couple areas I was completely unaware of. I am removing the quarter extensions & replacing 1 rear 1/4 patch.

      As you can see in the attatchment, I have pinholes in my L 1/4. The steel is all still very solid & now rust free.
      What I would to do is:
      1. Cover the surface with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator (or Rust Bullet, any opinions on whats better?)
      2. cover the inside with fiberglass mat & resin for increased strength
      3. work the outside of 1/4 w/ poly filler as normal.

      I have used fiberglass mat & resin w/ good success in the past (rust free for over 10 yrs) I just wanted some input from others on this. I know ideally I should replace the steel, but the holes extend beyond where a patch would cover & I really don't see replacing an entire 1/4 for some pin holes.

      Also, I'd like to hear from those who have used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator vs. Rust Bullet. I am going to use an undercoating gun & get inside all the panels to seal it all up.

      The car is currently bare steel in a heated garage. It should stay rust free but I want to get covered pretty soon. Can I cover the entire car & then work the filler over the primer or will I have to grind those areas back down (I figure damn near the whole car will wind up skim coated so I don't know if that's feasable).

      What is the best primer to use for adhesion & durability?
      Do you think I should do the undercarriage, trunk, interior, window channels, etc. in Rust Bullet?
      What is the best way to ensure the un dercarriage stays rust free (I don't really want to use rubberized under coating (bed liner would be great but I have no idea on $$$)

      As you'll see in the pics, I've got alot of sugery to do. I just want to make sure that the rust will not return.

      Thanx for the input guys,
      scotty

      Attached Images Attached Images      


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Midwest
      Posts
      2,263
      Country Flag: United States
      Killer -

      I really think you should replace the steel... those are a little bigger than pinholes, and you're going to have problems with it coming back. Especially the rear window area. Being in the Chicago area, maybe call Jeff Schwartz and see what they'd charge just to do those areas... get some quotes... it's going to be a much better repair and will make you rest easier knowing you're not relying on liquid bodywork to fill holes.
      Kevin Oeste
      V8 Speed and Resto Shop
      V8TV
      Muscle Car Of The Week
      V8 Radio Podcast

      All about us:
      https://www.v8speedshop.com


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Burleson Tx
      Posts
      268
      Country Flag: United States
      remember the little holes are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to rust all the surrounding area is eaten away also. Just replace the panel and rest easy that it will not rear its ugly head later when the paint is on.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Posts
      464
      Definitely replace metal w/metal, even for pinholes. You can fab a patch panel just big enough to replace what's necessary. Good luck!
      Ron
      69 Camaro Redfire, thanks to
      Marquez Design | Ring Brothers

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      OC CA
      Posts
      470
      Until I saw the pics I was going to suggest trying to close the holes with little spot welds, but you are way past that point.
      As others have mentioned, metal replacement is the way to go.

      Think about it, you spent good money to have the car blasted so it would be done properly. Don't cut corners here, you will regret it later.
      Mark
      LS1- T56
      under construction
      "Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Chicago
      Posts
      41
      Hey Guys,

      Thanx for the input. Just to be clear, the only place i was going to glass was the 1/4 panel. Any input on which rust paint is best?

      thanx,
      scotty

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Houston, Tx
      Posts
      1,004
      Country Flag: United States
      I wouldnt suggest painting over that... a good test is to tap the holes with a pick hammer... you will see that it goes right through there. Don't they sell patches for a cuda?

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Oswego il
      Posts
      938
      Country Flag: United States
      Could use lead, but patching in the areas is the best option.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Tampa, FL
      Posts
      170
      I concur with the others. Those holes are too big, just order a new quarter and be done with it.
      Nate
      1980 Camaro Z28
      2006 Cobalt LS (Warranty almost gone time for forced induction)
      www.fquick.com/GTOnate

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Wichita, KS
      Posts
      375
      Country Flag: United States
      i cant view the pictures, but since the whole car is bare steel it will start to have surface rust very soon, and every place you have touched the steel with your bare hands will also start to have surface rust. i would spray the entire vehicle with a good quality epoxy primer. it is very durable, keeps moisture out, it self-etches, and its the only primer you can put plastic body filler over. just scuff the area first. oh, and clean the entire car with a degreaser for auto body use, and use lint free towels.
      67 GTO, LS2, T56

      WILWOOD, FORGELINE, RIDETECH

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Chicago
      Posts
      41
      Quote Originally Posted by 67goatman455
      i cant view the pictures, but since the whole car is bare steel it will start to have surface rust very soon, and every place you have touched the steel with your bare hands will also start to have surface rust. i would spray the entire vehicle with a good quality epoxy primer. it is very durable, keeps moisture out, it self-etches, and its the only primer you can put plastic body filler over. just scuff the area first. oh, and clean the entire car with a degreaser for auto body use, and use lint free towels.
      I will be replacing both quarter sections, as I found suitable patches.
      Thanks for advice on the epoxy primer. I will be painting it very soon.


      thanx,
      scotty

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Wichita, KS
      Posts
      375
      Country Flag: United States
      good that you found them, the more you replace the better

      your welcome,
      scott.....without the y
      67 GTO, LS2, T56

      WILWOOD, FORGELINE, RIDETECH




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