De-arching Leaf Springs To Lower?

[70bird]

Well, I think I ordered the wrong springs from G/W. (or they sent me the wrong ones) Purchased new 2 years ago and I own them now. The car handles and drives well, but it is too high in the rear. Especially with my 25+" tires. Just doesn't look right. (stinkbug effect LOL)

So, I'd like to not have to buy new ones or use lowering blocks, and thought of de-arching them using a local spring shop (Deaver spring?)

Any downsides to this if done properly?

If not, I'll just have to order new,.
It's only money right?
Thanks

[70bird]

I'm thinking 2" lower.

What'cha all Think?

[immrtransam]

Deffo lower it...looks like a 4X4...lol

[70bird]

Ya right

The Q is not IF I should, but by how much and..............anyway thank you Captain obvious LOL j/k

[Sir Don]

It would be nice to have the picture with the front wheels strait.
Also I suggest that you put all the hardware on the car. The one pic didn't have paint and the other does, so is the rear window and trunk lid in place? I see the bumper is back on. In other words, make sure you have all the weight back on the vehicle or put weights in the car to simulate the interior parts, etc. Then look at the spacing on the front and rear wheels to the fenders.

I ran into a shock problem and Koni was nice to suggest that I get the vehicle completely assembled, then we can determine the right length shock. So I'll assemble, adjust the springs if needed, then order the shocks.

[HILROD]

Also put all the weight back in the car and let it settle. You will want to loosen and retighten the sping bolts at ride height. If you don't do these things you'll probably end up too low.

[Twentyover]

Used Deaver on my MG race car when i lived in Garden Grove- Quality was OK, not super, but OK

As far as de-arching, remember that arc does affect spring rate. Are you happy with the rate, jsut don't like the look? It looks like it's not on the road yet....

If rate's OK, maybe try reversing the spring eyes to bring the rear down?

[John Wright]

maybe try reversing the spring eyes to bring the rear down?

20+,
Can't do that on a second gen, the spring eyes are different, and the springs are not symetrical so they won't turn around and position the axle in the same location under the car, also the GW springs are clamped closer together at the front to help prevent wheel hop and axle wrap. Good thought though.

[John Wright]

I didn't see any traction bars or Slide-a links, so you could do a combination of several things to bring the rear down while retaining the current springs.

>The Herb Adam's mod will net about 3/8" drop,

> and then you could run a small lowering block(<1"),

>and then if more drop is needed you could pick up some additional drop with a set of adjustable position shackles.

Might not get all of that height out of the rear but should help you deal with what you have.

[silver69camaro]

Don't even think about touching the springs until the car is FINISHED. Now is not the time to worry about that.

[John Wright]

I agree, 20 gallons of fuel and all the window glass put back in will make a big difference in the ride height.

[70bird]

Used Deaver on my MG race car when i lived in Garden Grove- Quality was OK, not super, but OK

As far as de-arching, remember that arc does affect spring rate. Are you happy with the rate, jsut don't like the look? It looks like it's not on the road yet....

If rate's OK, maybe try reversing the spring eyes to bring the rear down?

I hadn't considered changes in spring rate. I am happy with the current rate although there are only limited (75?) miles of running around on the car, and I haven't run it too hard yet.
It's not being driven yet. How would I expect spring rate changes? stiffer or softer?

I didn't see any traction bars or Slide-a links, so you could do a combination of several things to bring the rear down while retaining the current springs.

>The Herb Adam's mod will net about 3/8" drop,

> and then you could run a small lowering block(<1"),

>and then if more drop is needed you could pick up some additional drop with a set of adjustable position shackles.

Might not get all of that height out of the rear but should help you deal with what you have.

Not yet, I do plan on Cal-tracks, or some sort of traction device to control wheel hop.
Herb Adams mod! good idea!, but I will stay away from L/blocks if I can.
Adjustable position shackles? My current ones are also GW, and have only about 5/8" clearance between rear spring eye and frame rail now, so I can't see too much gain there considering a 1 inch shackle length change will usually only net you about a 1/2" change in ride height.Though, I do see the logic in getting the drop from a combo of small increments in different areas.
How close can I run the rear spring eye to the frame rail?

Don't even think about touching the springs until the car is FINISHED. Now is not the time to worry about that.

Probably the wisest advice I could take right now!
I am blowing the rear of the car apart in prep. for body work and was hoping to get the ride height issue resolved while it's apart, but it really is just a matter of having to re-install them yet again, so I should probably be used to that by now.LOL

Just to be clear, The pics with paint on the 1/4's were taken with 3/4 tank of fuel, batt. in the trunk, bumper, lighting, etc. But, with no interior or rear glass.
On level ground, I have aproximitely 5 1/2" ground clearance to the lowest point of my subframe connectors, which are level with the front subframe. So, the car sits about stock height with 2" (?) loweing springs and 1" smaller tire diameter! I think ordered (got?) the wrong springs.

Also, a 25" tire seems a little small for the w/wells anyway, and I think it adds to the visual problem.

BTW, anyone else know something about the original question?

Thanks guys for all the good info!

I think m

[John Wright]

GW springs are designed to help with wheel hop. As for the Slide-a links, by raising the front eye , it may pose a clearance problem with the Slide-a-links...I'd research that a bit before laying out the cash for those.

[Fesler built]

The guys at Deaver are great and will take very good care of you, we use them all the time and have not had anyproblems. The car will ride great if it is done right. But dont take too much out of them as when you add all the weight gas/windows/system and so on it will settle a little, not as much as you probably want but it will come down. Send pics of your car to Deaver and figure out how much weight you are adding and they can help you figure out how much to take out. Thing you need to consider is what will a new set cost you as to de-arching them and for a little more money a 4 link would be the way to go. Good luck

Well, I think I ordered the wrong springs from G/W. (or they sent me the wrong ones) Purchased new 2 years ago and I own them now. The car handles and drives well, but it is too high in the rear. Especially with my 25+" tires. Just doesn't look right. (stinkbug effect LOL)

So, I'd like to not have to buy new ones or use lowering blocks, and thought of de-arching them using a local spring shop (Deaver spring?)

Any downsides to this if done properly?

If not, I'll just have to order new,.
It's only money right?
Thanks