New idea for flush mount windshield

[Rolling_Thunder]

hmmm interesting... anyone know what stock glass will sell for anyway?

depends on what you have... chevelle, camaro, nova, mustang glass is cheap.... if you have a rear window for a Charger, Coronet, dart... then you will make money

[73z-6sp]

Does anyone now who's car this is? It looks like they did a pretty good job on they're flush mount. I would like to know where I can get that type of glass. If they are glass

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevr...18893913QQrdZ1

Are those the ever elusive "drusc" brakes on the rear?



(drum disc )

[6'9"Witha69]

Is it just me or does the job on the lower spring pads look terrible? Crappy looking weld, and the shocks seem to be at such a weird angle. If it were me I would not have put any of those underbody shots up.

[boodlefoof]

Yeah, that welding looks pretty bad... and what is up with those drilled drums? ;)

[xtrmeta]

I'm doing the flush mount glass in my 70 Camaro. A friend of mine owns a glass shop. He came over and did a test fit. He just raised the glass with butal tape. The trim comes in all different widths.
He set my windsheild in and used a 5/8 trim and it looked very good.

[Damn True]

I'm doing the flush mount glass in my 70 Camaro. A friend of mine owns a glass shop. He came over and did a test fit. He just raised the glass with butal tape. The trim comes in all different widths.
He set my windsheild in and used a 5/8 trim and it looked very good.

Do you have any photos of that?

[xtrmeta]

I didn't take any pics of the test fit. Took it back out to finish all the body work. I'll get some pics when the windows go back in.

[TSSPAYNE69RS]

I have been watching this thread for 7 months and I am eagerly waiting for more opinion and pics of flush mounts. I am about 2 months away from being ready for glass on my 69 and I really would like the flush mount in the front, not so sure about the back. Any opinions? What is best Speedtech or the Shields from racingshields.com????

[grand_marquis_gt]

This thread is WORTHLESS without pics!

[Damn True]

I didn't take any pics of the test fit. Took it back out to finish all the body work. I'll get some pics when the windows go back in.

So you used the Butuyl to set the height and an adhesive to hold the glass in place?

[parsonsj]

OK, time to update what we found with the flush mount idea using Percy's HP Speedglass.

The windshield works fine, once we dropped the idea of using urethane adhesive. You must use butyl. The window needs to be trimmed carefully, and you might need to use some screws to hold the window in place while the butyl is setting up.

The back window did not work. The 'set' of the lexan was too bowed, and it sat too high in the middle and "dug in" on the sides. The way to make it work would be to use spacers to keep the window from digging in on the sides and screws to hold it down until the glue sets. If the window more exactly matched the contour of the car, it would work easily. As it is, we stopped, and re-grouped. After much discussion, Frank and I agreed that I should go back to traditional glass, gaskets, and trim.

Percy's expects the use of screws to keep the glass in, and doesn't make the contour of the window conform exactly enough to the body for it to work easily. That's true with my Nova body ... it may be that other body styles have better conformance and will have an easier timer of it.

The look of the flush mount was a consideration too. I must say it didn't quite look right to me, though that may be the frustration of a wasted day wrestling with it.

Oh well. Sorry for the long time needed to get an partial answer to this question.

jp

[paul67]

I watched a canadian program called how its made , they showed how they curved the windscreen glass, they made a pattern the same curve as was needed, then sat the flat glass on top and heated it evenly with with blow torches as the glass heated it then sank to the disired profile, if this could be done with an over size glass then trimed to suit. Just a thought. If used a second hand screen from a scrap car should not cost much to do , as the pattern seemed to be made of wood.

[GRider68]

How about this one. I am trying to contact the builder now

[parsonsj]

How about this one.

That is done via traditional "make the window opening smaller" methods like how Brian Schein did his '67. How do I know that? SpeedGlass can't be tinted, and I know of no supplier of oversize glass windows.

jp

[GRider68]

The builder said he welded in a 1/4" piece of round bar and then leaded the rest in. Once he was done with that he sanded the shape smooth. Check this link.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4891240&rd=1,1

[High Plains Mopars]

So, are you limited to lexan or speedglas if you want oversized front and back lites?

[parsonsj]

are you limited to lexan or speedglas if you want oversized front and back

Right, as far as I know. To use glass, you'll need to reduce the window frame about 3/8 to 1/2"

jp

[FJB2069]

I have been considering this with speedglass. I talked to them at PRI and looked at the 69 front shield. IN 0.25" thick it seemed very forgiving as far as being able to contour to the frame.

IF you go to www.equalizer.com and use Tight-Radius Underside Moulding • 100' Spool
Code: T202
Price: $89.95
Quantity in Basket: none

I would think you would be able to build up the ledge with butyl or silicone adhesive and then lay in the molding.

THis would give true flush mount look with no visible molding.

I am not sure what thickness matterial Parsons had tried to use for the rear window, but I would think the rear would only be 3/16" and that it would be even more flexible, but I guess I am wrong?

I do not know what to do at this point. But I do feel that painting the original trim to match looks much better then trying to use the 1" wide rubber molding.

[parsonsj]

I used the 3/16 SpeedGlass on both front and back. I still think it can work. To do so, one needs to be familiar with the adhesive alternatives, working times, curing shrinkage, etc.

I would make some hard rubber spacers that will lie underneath the window and position it properly. You will also need some way of holding the window in place until the adhesive sets well enough to hold the window on its own.

I used a bandsaw and wood planer to size the windows. That worked fine, but be sure to fit, re-fit, and fit again before cutting the tips off the adhesive tubes attempting to glue the window in. A motivated helper can be a good thing, since the window is awkward to position and hold into place.

Good luck, and let us know it turns out.

jp

[FJB2069]

John,

Do you think that you could just use a fews beads of adhesive and let them set up and shape them to build the ledge?

I actaully used some rubber blocks to hold up pvc templates that I made of the window area. They fit very close (about 1/16" from edge). I was thinking of sending my templates to Shields to have them cut them to size? Then I was thinking of using a sanding block or square DA sander to knock down the edges to size for final fit.

Did you use any type of moulding or just adhesive?

Fred