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Thread: Firewall semi smoothing?'s
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02-16-2008 #1
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Firewall semi smoothing?'s
I think I'm going to go the semi smooth route, and rivet a DSE fill plate in. I actually like the look! Ala Tony Huntimer..
Going to run the A/C through a bulk head or heater blower hole for my Vintage Air.
So, I'm trying to figure out what adhesive/sealant to use on the fill panel and where to find some SS rivets.
Also, I'm going to get some matt black spray paint and go that route for now. Any advice?
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02-17-2008 #2You can get SS rivets at Fastenal.
"Champagne taste on a beer pocket book."
02-17-2008 #3I did this on my 70, used black rtv to seal the new panel to the f/wall.
Make sure you use "blind" rivets. (no hole)
MarkMark
LS1- T56
under construction
"Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
02-17-2008 #4
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nvm
02-17-2008 #5
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I'm trying really hard to do it right, but the more tools I have to buy, the longer my car sits. If I rivet it, I can pull it later when I do the full paint.
Plus the car Tony did, looks good to me. I just want to drive it, it's been ten years.
02-17-2008 #6
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Well, I could use a welder for future use of mini tub and stuff so...
What should I look for in a welder? I've welded sheet metal with a wire feed MIG, so I think I can do a decent job of it, but I don't have the equipment.
02-17-2008 #7This is a panel i made for my firewall when i installed Vintage Air in my chevelle. Made it from sheet metal, bead rolled some line's into it and painted. I used 3M 5200 to glue it in place and screw's thru the coil bracket. Working today on one for a friend's chevelle. Doing this with the engine in the car and only pulled the distributor.
02-17-2008 #8
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nvm
02-17-2008 #9
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You don't have to spend a ton of money on supplies and tools to simi-smooth a firewall on a first gen. (I assume you are working on a first gen based on you user name.)
Here is how I do it.
1. Get a piece of sheet metal, I usually just go to Orchard Hardware and buy a sheet of 16ga for around $32.
2. Use an hammar/dolly to flaten out the opening for the heater core.
3. Make a template out of poster paper
4. Trace the pattern on you metal and cut out with a jig saw.
5. Use 3M 8115 Panel Bonding Adheasive to bond your metal to the firewall and clamp on with vise grips.
6. After the adhesive dries, sand the seems and paint.
Here are some pics of the process
02-17-2008 #10
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That's what I'm talking about! What did you use for paint and did you do anything for the back side of the panel?
I'll might use the round plastic fill panel for the blower hole still and a bulkhead for the A/C or try to route the hoses through the blower hole.
I'm thinking of trying some Duramix? for the small areas. It sets up rock hard but doesn't crack.Thomas
Spare Change: 68 Camaro, 300hp/350ci, 700R4
02-18-2008 #11
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You really don't need to do anything to the back of the panel, except make sure it is clean so the adheasive sticks well.
As for as paint, I epoxy sealed the bare metal, primed and sanded, and final painted with zero rust.
I welded a plate over my blower fan opening, but you could just cut out a plate and rivit, screw, or glue it over the opening. Once you get the fender and inner finder well back in the car you can't see the blower whole.
02-28-2008 #12



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