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    Results 1 to 3 of 3
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Far Northwest Suburbs, Chicago
      Posts
      30

      67 Camaro Floors

      HI! Newbie here.

      I've got a '67 Camaro with some rusty areas of the floor. Both driver and passenger side toe boards are just starting to rust through where they are welded to the area around the front subframe mount. It's not too bad, only about 1/2 inch wide and 3-4 inches long. Also, the passenger side floor just behind the toe board and in front of the seat mount is really thin, like a potato chip. Finally, the floor under the back seat and above both front leaf spring mounts has got rusty spots each about 7-8 inches around.

      Now here's my first question: Should I patch up the individual areas, or should I spend the extra money and have the complete floor replaced? I talked to one fellow who argues that all these trouble spots are around suspension or frame mounts and to be absolutely sure of the soundness of the repair I should have the one-piece floor installed and add the toe boards. This was the idea of the Goodmark Installation Center.

      My second question is has anybody ever installed the convertible bracing to the floors of a coupe? I would like the car to be as good handling as possible (suspension upgrades are in the future), but I am trying to avoid installing a roll cage for chassis stifness. The car is a street car, but I really want superior handling capabilities.

      Great site here and I look forward to being involved. I will introduce myself in the welcome section when I get home as I'm on the road for work and have my car pictures on my PC at home.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Depending on your damage it might be feesable just to do the whole floor. For me, I like the full floor cause there will not be any signs of repair as viewed from below. Just my pet peeve.

      I have seen a few guys add the vert x plate but you could do better and not hinder any other addition you might be thinking in the future.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Felton, DE
      Posts
      346
      Replacing the floor would be absolutely the best route but it's also the most work/expensive so it's up to you. I opted to just use shetmetal to patch my car up and it looks really good as it is. I rhino lined the entire floorpan of my car so i wont have to worry about sitting water rusting through again. The rhino liner also adds strength by tying all the pieces together as well as waterproofing them. But my car is going to be my everyday driver 650hp LS1 T56 car so the body to me is something that is going to get scratched up, dented up, and be generally abused.
      1994 Z28 - 13.52@110mph 2.1 60ft T56, bolt-ons, suspension
      1978 Datsun 2+2 - 6.0L LS1 swap in progress
      1968 Firebird, 2820 dry- 2000 LS1, D&D Viper T56, RAM clutch/flywheel, 236/236 .651/.651 110+4LSA cam, victor JR EFI, 4150 TB, 42lbers, painless harness, Moroso 7qt pan, sfc, trac bars, 3" x pipe side exits, Telstars-30"MT streets/skinnies, mini-tub, 8.5" posi, richmond 4.56s, Hooker lLTs, Denny N20 DS, Fast dual wideband, Shotgun street scoop.
      http://www.myspace.com/shawnmacananny


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