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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Posts
      53

      SPC upper control arm install questions???

      OK guys, I knew I would be doing a lot of double checking now that the install of the ATS spinde, SPC uppers, C5 brakes, and MOOG 5658 springs are going on the Grand National.

      Are you supposed to re-use the factory shims when installing the uppers?

      I figured you would since the directions tell you to set the SPC arm 1/2" in and 1/2" torwards the firewall before installing. If you dont install the shims, your arm wont be close to that at all. On the drivers side, I have 4 shims on front and back bolts. The only problem is that there isnt much travel to the arms and it seems to want to hit the UCA mounting perches.

      Should i mount the ball joint on the bottom of the UCA to gain a little more clearence?

      This is just a start so thanks for the help, many more questions will be coming soon! Jeremy



    2. #2
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      I believe that is a base adjustment that will get you close enough to get going to the alignment shop. Safe to say put the shims you had in and get it aligned.

      I would follow the brand suggestions for ball joint location.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Chicago - western burbs
      Posts
      681
      Since the arms are completly adjustable, you shouldn't need any shims at all.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      I shimmed mine inward evenly to get the cross shaft to sit flush and not interfere with the humps on the frame mount...otherwise, I just used the adjustment of the arms to get it close enough to get it to the alignment shop.

      Tobin
      It's what I does.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      NW Burbs, IL
      Posts
      286
      I did not use shims on mine.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Southern NJ
      Posts
      542
      Country Flag: United States
      No shims on mine, I think that is the whole point of having adjustables.
      Matt
      1965 Pontiac GTO – Spotts 421 Tripower | TKO600 | 3.90s | Vintage AC | Baers | Hotchkis/SPC/BMR Suspension | Intro Vistas | BFG KDW Redlines | 06 GTO Seats

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Posts
      53
      OK sounds like the shims arent needed!! That was kind of what I was thinking anyways! Why would you need adjustables if you are going to shim it anyways! Anymore suggestions would be great! -----Jeremy

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Posts
      53
      Another question:

      What should I use for the bump stop on the LCA?

      I have heard people use the ZQ8 bumpstops but I cant seem to find anyone who sells them?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by jdpolzin
      Another question:

      What should I use for the bump stop on the LCA?

      I have heard people use the ZQ8 bumpstops but I cant seem to find anyone who sells them?
      GM #15956547 BUMPER, JOUNCE, FIRM (You can thank Marcus @ SC&C)

      Tobin
      It's what I does.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      NW Burbs, IL
      Posts
      286
      Quote Originally Posted by jdpolzin
      OK sounds like the shims arent needed!! That was kind of what I was thinking anyways! Why would you need adjustables if you are going to shim it anyways! Anymore suggestions would be great! -----Jeremy
      I've heard of people aligning their cars w/o shims for street, and w/ shims for track days. Simply add the shim stack when at the track.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      NW Burbs, IL
      Posts
      286
      Quote Originally Posted by Apogee
      GM #15956547 BUMPER, JOUNCE, FIRM (You can thank Marcus @ SC&C)

      Tobin
      I plan on using these as well. The application is a 96-98' S10 SS....w/ sport suspension.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Posts
      53
      Quote Originally Posted by Apogee
      GM #15956547 BUMPER, JOUNCE, FIRM (You can thank Marcus @ SC&C)

      Tobin
      Tobin, thanks brother! nice chattin with you the other day!

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by bochnak
      I plan on using these as well. The application is a 96-98' S10 SS....w/ sport suspension.
      GM has actually obsoleted the old numbers with this current part number as they interchange with minimal modification in most instances. The softer jounce bumper (GM #15989674) is no longer available and if you order it like I tried to, GM will substitute the other part.

      Tobin
      It's what I does.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      NW Burbs, IL
      Posts
      286
      Quote Originally Posted by Apogee
      GM has actually obsoleted the old numbers with this current part number as they interchange with minimal modification in most instances. The softer jounce bumper (GM #15989674) is no longer available and if you order it like I tried to, GM will substitute the other part.

      Tobin
      Thanks, Tobin. I did not know GM no longer had that part available.

      I searched Rockauto and it had both styles available.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by jdpolzin
      Tobin, thanks brother! nice chattin with you the other day!
      Likewise Jeremy.

      Quote Originally Posted by bochnak
      I searched Rockauto and it had both styles available.
      GM no longer has any, but it's possible that others might be sitting on stockpiles of them. Thanks for the heads up, I might grab a few with my next order from R/A.

      Tobin
      It's what I does.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,314
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by bochnak
      I plan on using these as well. The application is a 96-98' S10 SS....w/ sport suspension.
      This one? The GM number didn't come up there.

      1998 CHEVROLET S10 PICKUP 4.3L 262cid V6 MFI (X) : Suspension : Control Arm Bumper
      DORMAN Part # 31064
      Front Lower; 4WD; w/Off Road Susp or w/Smooth Ride Susp
      Front Lower; RWD; w/Sport Suspension
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      PA.
      Posts
      935
      Country Flag: United States
      How`d I miss this thread? Good advice guys,no shims required. BUT you CAN use them if you want to as someone noted to adj. for race settings etc. Set the car up to street specs with the arms alone,then do the auto X or track day alignment with shims,mark the stacks and just use em when you need em,then go back to street specs in a few minutes, No fuss.
      We`ve had a really hard time getting ZQ8 jounce bumpers in any quantity. SPC located an aftermarket direct replacement part for us though. They work the same,install the same etc. The only difference is that they have a white protective cladding over the snubber itself and they`re made in China.... Still they get the job done (quite well really) and we can get as many as we need so for now they`re our only choice. Mark SC&C

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Posts
      53
      Marc, how much for a set?? Also, could you explain why you would want to put the shims back in for racing purposes only? What is the difference between the street and race set ups? i obviously know there are different alignment specs but just by installing them and not re-aligning? How's that work? Thank you all for the help!!!

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Evansville, IN
      Posts
      106
      Quote Originally Posted by jdpolzin
      Marc, how much for a set?? Also, could you explain why you would want to put the shims back in for racing purposes only? What is the difference between the street and race set ups? i obviously know there are different alignment specs but just by installing them and not re-aligning? How's that work? Thank you all for the help!!!
      I'm no expert, but adding shims would likely result in either increased neg. camber, increase pos. caster, maybe a combo of both. The increased camber is mostly not used on the street because I believe it increases tire wear (uneven at that), but I think it may help the outer tire bite better at the track. Just my $.02 and not the Gospel
      68 Camaro, 406, T-56, Hydroboost, IROC box, SC&C Stage1+, Hotchkis front springs and bar, Speedway Engr. rear bar, Varishocks all 4's, Vintage WW V48's
      48 Ford F-1 pickup, 355, 700R4

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
      Posts
      1,229
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by hotrodf1
      I'm no expert, but adding shims would likely result in either increased neg. camber, increase pos. caster, maybe a combo of both. The increased camber is mostly not used on the street because I believe it increases tire wear (uneven at that), but I think it may help the outer tire bite better at the track. Just my $.02 and not the Gospel
      You can run a little negative camber on the street without adversely affecting tire wear. I would say a max of -1.5° camber, preferably around the -1.0° mark.




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