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    Results 1 to 18 of 18
    1. #1
      Join Date
      May 2007
      Location
      Midwest City, Ok
      Posts
      306

      Stock subframe damage

      I tore down my stock subframe and notice all the oops that have happened to the subframe over the past 40 yrs. I have a couple hairline cracks, which I'm not to worried about. I'll probably just grind a groove in the cracks and then have it welded up. Then only real concern is a pretty big dig/dent in the frame. I was wondering what would be the best way to fix this, what about heating it up and then hammering it back in place? Here are a couple pics of the dig/dent and a couple of the cracks (close up and far away of the cracks).

      Dent

      Dent

      PS crack close up

      PS crack far away

      DS crack close up

      DS crack far away




    2. #2
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      sorry to say but that area is bad. The direction the dent and location of the crack might indicate the frame being tweeked.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Posts
      381
      Country Flag: United States
      Due to that heavy of a hit, I would be on the lookout for a donor subframe from another nova or camaro. I dont believe that you can hammer from the inside of the frame.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      2,624
      Country Flag: United States
      Your only recourse is to buy a new DSE subframe. At least, that's what I would tell the wife.
      Red Forman: "The Mustang's front end is problematic; get yourself a Firebird."

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      If you keep the sub make sure you "stop drill" that crack before welding.

      Stop drilling is where you drill a hole at the end of the crack to effectivly stop its travel. even if making a weld repair it could still resplit and travel.... Crack ---------------O <"stop drilled" hole
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Posts
      62
      It is possible to get a stock replacement Sub frame from BRP Hotrods in GA Just Google BRP Muscle rods and check them out

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      2,624
      Country Flag: United States
      I think Speed Tech offers a frame with improved geometry that is compatible with stock other stock components (a-arms, anti-roll bar, etc.) If I was going to replace the frame it would not be one with stock geometry.
      Red Forman: "The Mustang's front end is problematic; get yourself a Firebird."

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      San Diego, CA
      Posts
      356
      Either take your subframe to a reputable frame shop, and have them check it out (this can be a major PITA, especially if the subframe isn't on the car, as production tolerances in 1968 varied 1/8"+) or find a stock replacement.

      A lot can be achieved with the stock subframe. Unless you've got the coin to throw around for the DSE setup, the best bang for the buck is going to be the Chicane-LM setup from ATS. But of course, thats my $.02.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      2,624
      Country Flag: United States
      Another option. Think of your end goals as far as how you want to build it, and add up the cost, it might be worth it.

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=38527
      Red Forman: "The Mustang's front end is problematic; get yourself a Firebird."

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Boston MA
      Posts
      686
      Short of the impact on looks I wouldn't worry about the dent at all. Just put a tape on it to check that it's still square.

      That said, I would be VERY worried about the cracks. Just got to the yard and get another one. They're cheap and plentiful.

      Either that or you could go "Pro-touring" with an after market sub frame. If you pick the right one, after a couple grand you'll have a set up that's equal or maybe even a incrimentally better than a mildly modded stock set up. Do what ya like.
      1967 #s RS

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      2

      frame chart

      i did frame work in a chevy dealership body shop for 20 years and it looks like the horns could have been knocked over. that is where they will bend at the crossmember. measure at the end of the frame rail and see if one frame horn is higher than the other.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,316
      Country Flag: United States
      Should be measurement charts on dave pozzi's website.
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      Ch'ville Va.
      Posts
      33
      I have a stock sub that I am not going to use intrested?

    14. #14
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Posts
      115
      My money would be spent on the chikane LM.. its always cheaper to do it right the first time....

      by the time you are done straightening, and welding that one, you will have decided to atleast do a goldstrand mod, replace all the bushings and hardware.... propably some new controll arms... mediablast and paint... then the enevitable Brake question comes up.. and what about swaybar... etc etc....

      The ATS unit adresses all that and its only a phonecall away... oh yeah.. and since you are a member here on PT, i guess handling isnt inconsequental either..??

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Dayton, Ohio
      Posts
      368
      It is better to start with a striaight subframe than fixing it. I have one that was going on my car, but I went with the DSE subframe instead. The subframe has been modified with DSE Coilover conversion bracketry. We was in the process of smoothing it, and putting it in primer. Just drop me a PM if you are interested.

      Jeff

      http://www.kodakgallery.com/67rscamaro

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Washington State
      Posts
      11
      I would think a new subframe would be in order.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Yukon, OK
      Posts
      84
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm in OKC and might just have a pretty cherry subframe available soon. It's on my 68 Camaro. Let me know if you might be interested.

      I haven't really done a real close inspection on it, but it seems to be in really good shape.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      May 2007
      Location
      Midwest City, Ok
      Posts
      306
      Quote Originally Posted by CamaroLance
      I'm in OKC and might just have a pretty cherry subframe available soon. It's on my 68 Camaro. Let me know if you might be interested.

      I haven't really done a real close inspection on it, but it seems to be in really good shape.
      I have an extra one that is in good shape.




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