chassis jig design

[raustinss]

Hey guys as a professional fitter /fabricator I've made a living on a 4x8
1" thick table it had 3"angle legs with spreader bars obout a foot from
The bottom and more about 5" from the underside of the plate surface
Keep te legs in about 4 " in on the sides and about 18" on the ends . Now
If you can afford it machine the surface "flat" and tap 1/2" holes all over the
Plate . Roughly a 6" grid . These holes will allow you to bolt on "risers"
And hold downs . These can be welded (tack) to the car and bolted down
To hold everything in place while you work. DO NOT rely on gravity to hold
Steel and shims as steel moves when you weld and hammer. A light coating of oil
Will prevent splatter from sticking and rusting.the problem with I beams which are
Actually called wide flange is they aren't true the web (center) can be off center
And they can twist . Tubing is really nice it is at least nominal . (diamenstionally) true This makes measuring easier . I personally would make mine out of tube or the above
Table just make it 10'-12' long. The benefit to a "plate" surface is you can write and draw on it and have somewhere to place your tools.
Any questons email me [email protected]

[LS1MonteSS]

I know this is a old thread...
Back when I was still in the Army and station in Germany (Mid 90's) I ordered a Art Morrison 12 point chassis after seeing the build he did on a 55/56 chevy race car.. He built the whole thing off of two sheets of 3/4" plywood tied together.. Not sure if any one else saw that build or not..

My plans for a chassis table are two 8"X12'X.125 thick "I" beams, spaced 4' apart and the tops will have 12"X12'X1/2" thick plate.. I figured to make the legs out of 4" square post roughly 3' long, 3 per side and adjustable feet to level it to any surface. I'm a tall guy so all that bending has to go and the height will let me get under the table to do any welding.. Add three 4"X4" cross ties bolted to the "I" beams but levet with the top surface and 2"x2" angle bracing tying things together.. I will make out riggers to at the points where I need to work the suspension which can me adjusted depending on the wheel base of any given project..

[wellis77]

Glad this was recently brought back up. I'm going to be building a table for myself in a couple months and have recently been thinking about the best way I can weld this together to avoid warping. I've read through this thread many times and have read about bolting top rails to the frame of the table to avoid warping but I'm having a hard time picturing what that looks like. Does anybody have pictures of this type of design to give me an idea?

Otherwise, what are some ways I can avoid warping, as much as possible. Until earlier this week, I figured I would stitch weld 1 - 1 1/2 inches per leg, then about an inch on each side of the 2 x 2 cross braces. From other threads I've read that seems to be a pretty common way of welding a table together. Earlier this week I found some "welder angle clamps" and it got me wondering if this might be a better option. At $40-$50 a piece plus shipping, they aren't cheap but it may be worth it in order to be certain. Any thoughts on these clamps and if they would be worth the investment for a one or two use table?
http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Industrial-Wel...#ht_2871wt_907


Below is an image of my design so far. I'm planning a 15' table with the side rails out of 3x3x1/8 box tube, cross braces and angled leg braces out of 2x2x1/8, legs are 2x3x1/8. I'll be building adjusters into each leg in order to level it out.


I appreciate any feedback on my design and questions. Thanks everybody.

[LS1MonteSS]

Will,
I know the length for my legs might seem long but appx 12" of it will get used up by the I-Beam and top and that still affords me some room to get under and around what I'm working on.. I like your table design, it would be an awesome set up if your plating the top!

Kevin