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Thread: chassis jig design
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07-03-2008 #1
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Well i guess i have to know what sort of TIG you would be using b/c what you said just doesn't make sense to me. Wether you MIG for 1in and then skip 2in weld 1in and keep repeating that pattern. Once the trigger is pushed your a Xamps. With TIG (I have a Miller Dynasty 300DX) you can set the pulse, background current, etc..etc. Heck at the very least you can rock the pedal.....

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07-03-2008 #2
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yes tig weld is cooler, however mig done properly will have less of a heat affected zone then tig
07-05-2008 #3Posting these just to give ideas and make everyone sick...
Rest of the shop pics can be found here: http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/sho...d.php?p=260219
Chris
07-05-2008 #4
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Thanks for that man...................no really........................................than ks.
07-06-2008 #5Finally.. a post with the chassis jig in action. Even painted it for you David
. Thanks everyone for all your input! The car is just sitting on there on wood blocks and on rollers for now awaiting the body and suspension cradles. Likely time to start a progress post now that I am done this detour.

Rear adjustable IRS cradle in progress:

As for the note about TIG vs MIG - the heat affected zone is the key. Think about the speed in which you typically TIG a part vs MIG on the same part (TIG is slower at least when I am behind the torch). MIG is typically faster, meaning the heat transfer to surrounding areas is going to be less (via the pricipals of conduction). When building this jig, we definitely saw a noticable difference in part distortion when comparing TIG vs. MIG. The degree to which they are different will most likely vary with operator skill. As David called it, we spent a considerable amount of time with the torch attempting to get rid of the distortion on the parts after welding. While we are only talking mm here, it is still enough to throw the flat surface off when you are looking at a 12 ft long part.
07-13-2008 #6





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