chassis jig design

[mike w.]

too right!!!lol

[SwampHouse Kustoms]

Awesome thread. Ton of great info. I do have some questions though.

I want to build a universal table for a few builds coming up. I have an 85 Chevy S-10 and 1991 K5 Blazer that I want to build full tube chassis' for. My dad has a 64 Chevy C-10 that we wants to do the same. And my wife would like an old Nova built one day, so that we be the next project. Honestly, I would love to keep building chassis', so flexibility is key. I don't want to have to build multiple tables.

Anyway, I like the design of Mike's tables; I-beams, no plate, 3 feet wide and the use of outriggers. I also think setting the body or existing frame to ride height, mounting or welding to the jig and then building around that makes sense.

My question is, what about building a chassis with air suspension that you want to lay flat on the ground when suspension is lowered?

It would seem that you can still build at frame at ride height off the table or you could set the frame directly on the table and build that way. But I basically have to choose one way and go with it throughout the whole build?

I know for the S-10, I want 4" of ride height. My thought process is this. Let me know how you would improve on it or if you would tackle this a completely different way?

I could easily lay 2" x 4" box tubing crossmembers across the top surface of the I-beam jig, set the current frame/cab/bed on those crossmembers, and establish my ride height. I could then weld supports to the rockers, bed, etc to secure the truck to the jig. I then can remove the cross members and the old frame and leave the shell of the truck and build off of that at ride height. However, to ensure the truck "lays" frame, I would have to use outriggers that elevate my wheels and tires 4" above the jig to ensure I have the travel and clearance to lay frame?

Thanks for any advice and input?

[wellis77]

I could easily lay 2" x 4" box tubing crossmembers across the top surface of the I-beam jig, set the current frame/cab/bed on those crossmembers, and establish my ride height. I could then weld supports to the rockers, bed, etc to secure the truck to the jig. I then can remove the cross members and the old frame and leave the shell of the truck and build off of that at ride height. However, to ensure the truck "lays" frame, I would have to use outriggers that elevate my wheels and tires 4" above the jig to ensure I have the travel and clearance to lay frame?

Welcome! Glad to see you made it.

I'm using air suspension on my build as well, though I'm not planning to lay frame. On my build I'm adapting Viper suspension to the chassis and need to narrow the track. In order to figure out how much I'm going to narrow, I am doing exactly what you described in order to simulate full compression of my shocks and then check for fender clearance at full lock. My shocks compress 2.1 inches so I'll be laying a 2x4 tube across the jig to simulate both wheels in full compression at the same time. When I build my rear wheel tubs I'll do the same thing. Though by then the car will hopefully be on the ground and I'll just drop the car down.

[Crestronwizard]

bump.........just because this is such a great thread

[scotzilla]

damn i wish all our cars were the same so we could build some fixtures like that and whip stuff out. very nice.

[MrQuick]

Damn Dave, that is some inspiring stuff. Wish we could get to that level. Thanks welcome to the site too.

wonder how many crew members it takes to build a truck in 4 months.

[cheapta]

AS far as the question of how to get a car onto the jig,I did mine kind of the opposite (blue I-beam jig with ChevyII on it a few pages back.) Once the car was gutted and had some supports welded inside I lifted one end with my cherry picker and blocked it up,then the other end and blocked it up.I made some wheeled dollies out of framing lumber and Harbor Frieght casters and rolled the I beams under the car,bolted the stringers in between the I beams,then lowered the car onto the beams using the cherry picker again. In fact I was able to wheel the jig into position in my shop like that with the car on it-it hardly weighed anything at that point.Then I lifted one end of the jig at a time (with the car strapped down-you can see that in the photos) and put the legs on and leveled the whole thing.
I made some body clamps that clamp onto the pinch welds at the bottom of the rockers to hold the car up off the jig.They also were capable of jacking the car so I could set ride height with the wheels mocked into place.Once I had everything where I wanted it and centered on the jig I welded the car to the jig and got the leveling clamps out of my way. I'll try and get some pictures of the clamps up here before too long.
I'm working alone in my home shop,don't have a forklift or any type of overhead crane-get creative!

[LS1MonteSS]

Wow this thread hasn't seen any action for way over a year. Are any of you guys still around?

[BK2LIFE]

Wow this thread hasn't seen any action for way over a year. Are any of you guys still around?

Was thinkin the same thing.. I am getting ready to build a rack and this thread has been really helpful! I love the internet!

[T_Raven]

I'll be building a table when i get home in a couple months. Most likely out of I beam and drilling holes down both beams to bolt attachments to. Hopefully I can find some used I beam in a size that'll work

[Dave Maxwell]

Just found this thread. Will be watching

[raustinss]

Gentleman....watch what you do with beams, as you may think they are straight and true....they aren't. The way they are made in the mills leaves lots of room for variances...you can have two beams which are the exact same spec but have more then 1/16" difference in height. Unless of course they came from the same length of material. Also the top and bottom flanges may not be perfectly parallel to each other. This is why alot of shops end up using tubing, the way tubing is specified eg.4" square....1/4" wall....it won't have a fraction of the variances that beams have..it's what is commonly called nominal or non nominal diamensioning. The roadster shop makes their frames on jigs made from either 3" or 4" tubing. If a customer was to come to my shop to have a chassis jig made I would heavily sway them towards using tubing over beams.
Ryan

[Dave Maxwell]

That's what Rad rides used also. Square tube. That's what I'm going with once I'm all moved into my new shop

[Dave Maxwell]

I'm buying a drive on lift. Raise it up to table roll vehicle from one yo the other. Then still have my lift for whatever I want to work on also. Buddies lift moves easily

[raustinss]

Thanks for the info Dave. I wasn't aware but yes you bring up a couple points I didn't cover, if moving the table around is a issue just get creative jack it up and put "car skates" under each corner. Another thing if you build a table out of tubing...build a sub structure under it maybe build some short legs which can bolt to the base plates.... The reason....because once you done with it at the lower height it can then double as a work table...just add a top either wood or metal....now get building and post some pics.

[Dave Maxwell]

I have pics of my new 42x72x16 shop is about all I have now. Haven't even got my tools moved. Wish I could have gotten bigger, but money didn't allow

[Bigfella237]

Just found this thread and yes I know it's a couple of years old, but I just had to mention the "Big Blue Jig" seen on Project Binky on YouTube, apparently they made it themselves and many people have asked them for plans but they say they never drew up any.

It starts off as a two I-beam frame sitting on the floor...



...then they bolt the lifting arms to it and remove the legs...



...and it can be lifted and/or rotated as needed...







...it has casters that can be fitted...



...then the lifting arms are unbolted from the I-beams...



...and attached to the body so the I-beams can be wheeled away...