68 Camaro factory AC VA question

[MadBadger]

I haven't posted in a long time, but I am finally back to working on the car after it has sat in the garage for well over a year...oh well...

It is a factory AC car (AC has never worked though, the compressor isn't even bolted on), but I have found that the headers are burning a hole in the fiberglass box. I have already replaced the heater core, right after I got the car, so I had the fender off and the fiberglass box off; but I wanted to get it on the road so I just put it back together the way it had been.

Now I am thinking about going with the Vintage Air Gen IV kit, from what I've seen here, it looks awesome.

My question now is, would it be possible to convert the car to non-AC with the different (much smaller) cowl on the firewall and another heater core, and then use a non-AC Vintage Air system? I like the looks of the non-AC set-up on the firewall much better, and the headers wouldn't keep burning a hole in the fiberglass.

I searched but couldn't find anything on this exact question. I am just wondering if there is any real advantage to using any of the original factory AC parts if I'll be going with the VA GEN IV system anyway?

Thanks in advance.

[cad]

The rectangle on the firewall for the AC car versus the non-AC car is oriented differently. The non-AC rectangular opening is horizontal. The AC rectangle is vertical. I did do this on my 68 with a non-AC panel and tacked on 1 or 2 pieces of tin to cover the additional part of the opening. Nobody ever noticed. However...The non-AC heater pipes enter the engine compartment in a different location also. AC is under the fender. I believe non-AC is closer inward to the engine.
Lastly, the firewall opening is not flat. It is pressed with a slightly protruding edge leading into the engine compartment. I snipped the corners and rolled it back flat in order to get my heater box to fit the firewall.
It's been since 1996 when I did mine, but I believe that was most of the issues. I am not running a heater, either.

[CarlC]

I too have an AC car and ran the AC with headers. The only ones that come close to working are Hooker 1-5/8" Supercomps but they are still too close, require a bit massaging at the corner nearest the box, and need a heat shield. I dumped it, it was not worth it.



If you want AC then I suggest eliminating all of the underhood factory system and go VA. The VA system is complete so none of the factory components are needed. It comes with a firewall block-off plate, or you can weld up the hole and reroute the hoses as you like. Confirm with VA your plans for hose routing so you get the right kit.

If all you want is heat you can get an American Graffiti "Magic Box" which eliminates most of the underhood factory components but still uses the factory underdash heater system. Most of the underhood wiring is still used since it controls the fan speed. A factory wiring diagram will help you cut out the wires you don't need. I have one and it works well.

[MadBadger]

Thanks Cad, that is what I was looking for...I figured there might be more to it than just changing the piece on the firewall...

I wonder if those "bulkhead fittings" I've read about would make more sense than the change I was talking about?? It almost sounds like it would be just as easy to get a piece of metal welded over the whole section, as it would be to fit in the non-AC, and then go the bulkhead fitting route???

I will be doing more research...But it gets over 100* regularly here in the summer, so AC some way will make a huge difference...

Thanks.

[MadBadger]

Carl-C thank you, I was typing when you replied...OK, I didn't know the VA system came with a block off plate...That makes it a pretty easy decision...I am really going to look at the bulkhead stuff as the way to route things, that just looks great in the pictures I've seen

I have Hooker headers in there now, but I'm not sure of which model.

Pretty soon I am going to take the fenders off again and really get to work on the engine compartment, the AC is probably the biggest thing...I want to run new wiring too (AAW). I am not going for a show car look under the hood, I just want it functional and to look pretty good...Thanks.

[SBNova]

My 71 Nova was a heat- only car that I installed the VA kit, using as many factory AC parts as I could. My VA kit is old- about 7-8 years now, and some of the parts werent too great. It adapted to my stock heater controls terribly. I spent alot of time correcting it and its still far from perfect. The defrost ducting sucked- so I used the stock stuff-modified of course. I used an AC dash cluster for the factory vent. The more factory stuff you can tie in the better, buttodays VA kits may benicer than what I bought.

[MadBadger]

That's too bad about the Nova VA parts...I sure hope the newer VA stuff works better...I have read good things about the Gen IV stuff. I really want to get rid of that big fiberglass shell that keeps getting a hole burned in it...but I want to be able to stay cool in the summer too....

[ProdigyCustoms]

Mad,

There are specific kits for factory no A/C and factory A/C cars with block plates provided for the correct original firewall. You also have the option of smooting the firewall with the new Gen IV kit too.

[MadBadger]

Frank,

Thanks and I'll be in touch when I have the funds ready for the AC....

[Chad-1stGen]

I would just get a DSE plate or equivalent to create a smooth firewall if you are goign to get a Gen IV kit and run the bulkhead adapters. That is probably the looks you see the most with bulkhead adapters that you like.