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    Page 63 of 121 FirstFirst ... 13 53 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 73 113 ... LastLast
    Results 1,241 to 1,260 of 2412
    1. #1241
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      333
      >now carbon fiber, to do it the right way, not so much.

      CAn you expound ? I have heard that

      1) CF is more delicate when handling and cutting
      2) it tends to curl up at the edges while curing, especially in mold less construction.

      Why else would it be more difficult to work with ? You don't have to vacuum bag it except to cure problem #2. I'd be interested in your experiences.



    2. #1242
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      dayton, oh
      Posts
      952
      Quote Originally Posted by preston View Post
      >now carbon fiber, to do it the right way, not so much.

      CAn you expound ? I have heard that

      1) CF is more delicate when handling and cutting
      2) it tends to curl up at the edges while curing, especially in mold less construction.

      Why else would it be more difficult to work with ? You don't have to vacuum bag it except to cure problem #2. I'd be interested in your experiences.
      ok, well, I must admit I've never used CF. but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

      here's what I've gathered:

      - the dry fabric itself is very hard to deal with. you need to tape everywhere you cut so the fabric doesn't fray
      - FG can use poly resin versus CF must use epoxy resin. epoxy is actually better, but harder to deal with
      - IMO, to do CF right is to vacuum bag it. otherwise you've just got a fiberglass part that has a pretty black pattern. that means extra equipment and more work
      - it's a lot more expensive, which makes screw-ups expensive
      dave.t
      86 Olds 442 - Project If It Ain't Broke, Take It Apart and Fix It
      74 Javelin AMX - stocker

    3. #1243
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      Dallas, TX
      Posts
      260
      Well, if you want to make something out of carbon fiber and you're going to paint it, I'd imagine aligning the weave isn't as critical. Many CF hoods and other parts are fiberglass reinforced, so essentially they use the CF as decoration. To make a CF part truly light weight requires more than just brushing on resin and adding layers like we'd do with fiberglass... It can be done, but a lot of the weight would be because of excess resin.

      Aren't production CF parts made of that impregnated cloth that has the resin in it or something, reducing the amount of resin needed?
      '69 Chevelle - LQ4/T56
      '71 GMC SWB Fleetside - LM7/AR5

    4. #1244
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      333
      Yes, high quality CF is made with pre-preg which has the resin already impregnated in it with the correct amount. However to cure it requires an autoclave which is an oven that also creates atmospheric pressure, so it is out of reach for most peopl especially on automotive scale parts. Even a small autoclave is probably a bit spendy. I believe parts going in the autoclave still require some bagging or absoprtion ply too, so its not as easy as just laying it down.

    5. #1245
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      5,101
      Country Flag: United States
      I am a test/design engineer for a aerospace company. i have done the composite layup classes so I know how they are built. This way I know how to design something from CF that can be manufactured.

      We use prepreg and dry cloth. But we vaccuum bag all parts in an autoclave. The resin cures around 300F. The aligning of weave is to ensure a uniform stiffness across a part that is larger than the width of a roll of CF.

      If you want to know something specific ask me.

    6. #1246
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Maryland
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      Its all mute for us regular guys any way, to build a one off part in carbon would cost more then I'd be willing to pay. A buddy gave me a roll of glass matting, so I shouldn't have more then $150 in the thing.

      Got most of the sculpting done, have to refit it to the car again, prime it a couple more times, and start spraying gelcoat, and laying fiberglass. I'll let you know how bad it is. Ron



      Ron Schwarz

    7. #1247
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      new braunfels, tx
      Posts
      545
      Country Flag: United States
      that steel part looks great! how much does it weigh? how much weight can you hope to drop w/ a fiberglass version?

    8. #1248
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Maryland
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      I knew the bumper was just going to be a plug for the fiberglass mold, so I built it out of metal out of my scrap barrel. Its just tacked together, so I really can't use this as a finished part. The bumper probably weighs between 15 - 20 lbs. I would think the glass part will be half that.
      Ron Schwarz

    9. #1249
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
      Posts
      38
      Dayum! That looks awesome.

    10. #1250
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Dan S. View Post
      Dayum! That looks awesome.
      +1 great job...."AGAIN!", Ron. You just keep on hitting the big home runs. Can't wait to see the finished deal w/ splitter and all attached.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    11. #1251
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Maryland
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      Yeah, well the fiberglass part isn't made yet. The jury is still out on the homerun, it may end up being a strike out. Ron
      Ron Schwarz

    12. #1252
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      5,101
      Country Flag: United States
      How many layers of fiberglass are you going to use? I would guess with 2 layers that bumpers weighs in at 5-7 lbs. Unless you use too much resin.

    13. #1253
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      overseas
      Posts
      3,434
      Country Flag: United States
      looks awesome!!!
      Kevin S. (overseas in Germany)
      1963 Chevrolet Impala 2d ht Coupe

      www.CruznArt.com
      CRUZN - Automotive Artworks

    14. #1254
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Maryland
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      I will probably use 2 layers for the part, and 10 or so to make the mold.





      Ron Schwarz

    15. #1255
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Lafayette, LA, USA
      Posts
      485
      Country Flag: Canada
      So did you start with the original bumper and add too it or build the whole thing from scratch? It was kind of to tell from the previous page pictures.
      Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting - Holy cow - what a ride!!!
      See my build

      Jason

    16. #1256
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      overseas
      Posts
      3,434
      Country Flag: United States
      like a glove
      Kevin S. (overseas in Germany)
      1963 Chevrolet Impala 2d ht Coupe

      www.CruznArt.com
      CRUZN - Automotive Artworks

    17. #1257
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Maryland
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      Yes, the top is a cut down peice of the original front bumper off the car. Seems kind of boring without the splitter and strut rods. Still have to finish the ends to fit the car,but it is pretty close.
      Ron Schwarz

    18. #1258
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Lombard, IL
      Posts
      545
      Country Flag: United States
      I’m nostalgic and like all the old muscle car styling. When you first talked about changing the bumper, my first reaction was: NOOOOO! I love the old Shelby bumper with the chunk missing! I thought: you can’t do better than the tough guy look of the Shelby bumper……or so I thought
      But once again, you’ve somehow improved that car.
      That looks really cool, so far. I can’t wait to see the finished product.


      Your project thread is one of my favorites on the site, and one of a handful of reasons I go to the Motor State Challenge.
      Dan
      1971 Chevelle Maliboo Convertible 496/4L80E
      1956 210 2 door Sedan 8-71 blown 468/T400

    19. #1259
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      TN
      Posts
      959
      I can hardly wait to see it with the splitter and the strut rods!! Looks Mean! And not cookie-cutter like a shelby style! Even though they do look nice.
      Benjamin

      Twin Dusters
      '72 Plymouth Duster "Aero Duster" project
      '72 Plymouth Duster "Daily Duster" project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...RO-DUSTER-quot

    20. #1260
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      dayton, oh
      Posts
      952
      nice work so far Ron!

      have you thought about how you're going to attach the FG bumper? you might need to fab some brackets while you're at it
      dave.t
      86 Olds 442 - Project If It Ain't Broke, Take It Apart and Fix It
      74 Javelin AMX - stocker

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