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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Posts
      91

      2nd gen subframe

      I know its been talked about before but Is there really a benefit to the aftermarket subs when it comes to performance. I love the look but the price sucks. I want a capable car that has all around good performance but 5-7 grand seems a bit much. I plan on a 3-link out back and c6-zo6 brakes. But the front has me stumped on which way to go. The car had bmr stock geometry tubular upper and lower ca's with qa1 single adjustable coilovers. Iknow there are better setups and just would like some other educated pinions.

      thanks
      karl

      79 trans-am (like i needed another one)
      81 turbo trans-am (project "over my head")
      67 c-10 (best thing I ever got form ebay)
      63 austin healey sprite ????
      58 chevy pickup (future money pit)
      92 firebird (beater)(for-sale)

      Karl


    2. #2
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Your stock frame is more than adequate for a competent handler. Get the right parts on it and big sticky tires. ATS and SC&C are a great a start. links ------>
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Hackettstown, NJ
      Posts
      1,026
      Quote Originally Posted by MrQuick
      Your stock frame is more than adequate for a competent handler. Get the right parts on it and big sticky tires. ATS and SC&C are a great a start. links ------>
      I second that. I was in uor boat a couple of years ago when Wayne Due was making them. granted they look nice, if you prep your subframe and add good components, you'll be fine and your bank account will look better. the stock t/a suspension is pretty decent believe it or not. a rack and pinion will be equal to a box if the box and components are in good shape. also, i am told that with big fat tires, you will wear a rack out.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      IL/TN
      Posts
      908
      Country Flag: United States
      on the subjuct of R&P there is no good rack available at this time that work on older cars with the amount of scrub radius they have.
      https://www.protouringf-body.com "doing what they say can't be done"

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Posts
      91
      thanks for the info guys.

      what mods should I do to the subframe.

      I was thinking about fully welding all the seams but I dont know what else
      79 trans-am (like i needed another one)
      81 turbo trans-am (project "over my head")
      67 c-10 (best thing I ever got form ebay)
      63 austin healey sprite ????
      58 chevy pickup (future money pit)
      92 firebird (beater)(for-sale)

      Karl

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
      Posts
      1,229
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 81 trans-am
      thanks for the info guys.

      what mods should I do to the subframe.

      I was thinking about fully welding all the seams but I dont know what else
      Seam welding and grinding would do wonders. I have contemplated picking up a spare frame for my second gen and building it off the car. There is really no need to perform a Guldstrand mod of any sort to a second gen. Stock geometry works fairly well. Upper arms with some added negative camber, bump steer correctable tie rod ends...

      Nothing against ATS and their wonderful AFX spindle, but it really isn't any better than stock for a 2nd Gen. It works wonders for a 1st gen, but not so on a 2nd gen. Your stock spindle is fine. Add some good brakes and you will be set. Just throwing this out there, but I will be prototyping bracketry to mount Porsche Brembo Big Red calipers to a stock second gen spindle and a stock second gen rear end. May try and build a few kits to sell.

      Forget a R&P retrofit. There really aren't any for the 2nd gens right now and even if there were, I doubt they would correct for bumpsteer. Delphi 670 or 800 series box will work very well.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Posts
      91
      Keep me posted on those brackets. I was looking at kore 3 zo6 setup when i hit the lottery.
      79 trans-am (like i needed another one)
      81 turbo trans-am (project "over my head")
      67 c-10 (best thing I ever got form ebay)
      63 austin healey sprite ????
      58 chevy pickup (future money pit)
      92 firebird (beater)(for-sale)

      Karl

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Hackettstown, NJ
      Posts
      1,026
      I have seam welded my frame, I haerd it works good as teh factory just had welds at random locations and the frame would move. by welding it, you eliminate that deflection as teh frame becomes a true box frame.

      I have the Kore3 C5 set up right now. I am gathering info an the porsche brakes too. it seems that a 996 will work best. the turbos need a 18" or bigger wheel. the chyanne needs even bigger as they can get rotors to 405mm (15.94").

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
      Posts
      1,229
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Takid455
      I have seam welded my frame, I haerd it works good as teh factory just had welds at random locations and the frame would move. by welding it, you eliminate that deflection as teh frame becomes a true box frame.

      I have the Kore3 C5 set up right now. I am gathering info an the porsche brakes too. it seems that a 996 will work best. the turbos need a 18" or bigger wheel. the chyanne needs even bigger as they can get rotors to 405mm (15.94").
      Precisely why I am going with the 993's. I want to be able to run 17's. PLUS, the rears are lug mount and will be super easy to retrofit. A friend and I have looked at the math, and they seem to be a great match. I will keep everyone up to date.

      Nick




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