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01-11-2008 #1
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- Join Date
- Aug 2004
- Location
- Annapolis, MD
- Posts
- 451
Thanks for all the info. I am going to have to do my own troubleshooting, since a bunch of wiring was done by a guy 150 miles away, so driving to him to get it rechecked would be just the thing a fire hazard needs to burn my baby to the ground... I will run a few of these tests myself before I try driving anywhere.
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01-11-2008 #2
Registered User
- Join Date
- Aug 2004
- Location
- Vancouver BC
- Posts
- 190
I have the DC FK35 running my dual LS1 fans and my battery went dead within two weeks right after the DC controller was installed. I'm not good with electronics so I had a friend of mine who's quite good (has his own electronics repair business) wire it up for me. I don't drive the car often so now I just unhook the battery. I haven't tried to troubleshoot the problem yet but my buddy does know what he's doing,the instructions were simple to read and well laid out, and the car has had no history of killing the battery in two weeks time(I've had the car for 14yrs). I rule out the DC controller as it is new but after seeing this post, it makes me wonder......
Mike Kirkwood
81 Z28 LQ4, Baer brakes, Global West everywhere.
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee283/zedzag/
01-12-2008 #3
Registered User
- Join Date
- Aug 2004
- Location
- Annapolis, MD
- Posts
- 451
I am not the best with electrical either, but I took a shot at wiring the entire car with a pailess 18 circuit harness and weatherpak terminals, so it is entirely possible that I screwed up the wiring, but I hahd to have the RS headlight relay setup professionally wired because I just could not get it working right (turned out I had a bad brand-new headlight switch to throw into the mix - which would have taken me a year to figure out). So now who knows where the culprit lies. I have the main 0 gauge power wire coming from the trunk mounted battery, goes through the interior into the passenger kickpanel vent area. I used a DS&E firewall terminal, but I think that my crimp on the interior side may be loose causing heat and excessive draw, any way that I can isolate this without having to remove the kick panel?
btw, have I said lately how much I respect electricians! They are on the same level as good bodywork guys, unbelievable patience.
Also keep in mind, three things burned during this episode all in separate areas of the engine compartment, but I think they may all be on the headlight section of the harness, gotta check the schematic:
1) The DC Controller surge protector
2) The Headlight fuse
3) The main 50A power fuse
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