HOK Questions

[TnBlkC230WZ]

I'm painting my first car. I've done a lot of research and decided to use House Of Kolor paint for a few reasons. 1. I can avoid using isocyanates. 2. It appears to be a very good paint that will give good color depth and shine. Being a novice, will stick with the Shimrin base coats and clears. I will avoid the fancy stuff. I have a few questions to get started.

I'm considering FBC-04 Strato Blue or the KBC04. Should I avoid the kandy base coat and stick with the fine metalic? I know the KBC04 requires an SG base coat first.

I prefer to paint the car disassembled as it will be easier for me to get all the jams and interior and have no tape lines. Base on other posts I've read, I don't know if this is a good idea?

The Australian website has a tool to calculating the needed materials. It doesn't list the KS-10 primer sealer as needed, but the tech sheets say it should be the base coat for the Shimrin bases. Is the KS-10 needed or can I spray the base coats on top of the KP2CF primer?

How much primer would I need for 2 coats on the interior and 4 - 5 coats on the exterior of a 71 Nova? Also can this primer be safely applied of the EDP primer on the new body panels?

[J2speedandcustom]

I'm painting my first car. I've done a lot of research and decided to use House Of Kolor paint for a few reasons. 1. I can avoid using isocyanates. 2. It appears to be a very good paint that will give good color depth and shine. Being a novice, will stick with the Shimrin base coats and clears. I will avoid the fancy stuff. I have a few questions to get started.

I'm considering FBC-04 Strato Blue or the KBC04. Should I avoid the kandy base coat and stick with the fine metalic? I know the KBC04 requires an SG base coat first.

I prefer to paint the car disassembled as it will be easier for me to get all the jams and interior and have no tape lines. Base on other posts I've read, I don't know if this is a good idea?

The Australian website has a tool to calculating the needed materials. It doesn't list the KS-10 primer sealer as needed, but the tech sheets say it should be the base coat for the Shimrin bases. Is the KS-10 needed or can I spray the base coats on top of the KP2CF primer?

How much primer would I need for 2 coats on the interior and 4 - 5 coats on the exterior of a 71 Nova? Also can this primer be safely applied of the EDP primer on the new body panels?

As a novice you should stay away from multi-coat finishes, where you apply a base and then a mid or tint coat on top. Especially since you are going to paint each piece off the car it would be really hard to make sure you have the same coverage. My opinion is you need a sealer coat before the base, this will help with coverage on the base.

Depending on how "thick" you spray the coats it will change the amount. This is a good base (1 sprayable gallon should make 2 coats on an average size car).

My opinion is the factory e-coat needs to come off COMPLETELY!

The best advice I have is to talk with your local paint shop, and see if one of the reps can come out and give you some help. Like setting up, gun pressure, process for applying the products, etc.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

As a novice you should stay away from multi-coat finishes, where you apply a base and then a mid or tint coat on top. Especially since you are going to paint each piece off the car it would be really hard to make sure you have the same coverage. My opinion is you need a sealer coat before the base, this will help with coverage on the base.

Depending on how "thick" you spray the coats it will change the amount. This is a good base (1 sprayable gallon should make 2 coats on an average size car).

My opinion is the factory e-coat needs to come off COMPLETELY!

The best advice I have is to talk with your local paint shop, and see if one of the reps can come out and give you some help. Like setting up, gun pressure, process for applying the products, etc.

I have talked to the local paint shop. I really like the multitude of opions I get on this site. Sounds like I need the sealer. I was trying to avoid it because of the isocyanates. This means I will need a fresh air mask as well. I like the Strato blue, but I was looking for a little extra flash.

[ProdigyCustoms]

HOK is good stuff, use it often. It is also very resonable price. Keep in mind that even the Shimron line is basically a candy itself. At the top of the color page it tells you it must be shot over white or black, which is a warning it DOES NOT cover. I did a True blue 55 Chevy and sprayed a black / white test card, 7 coats for full coverage. As for painting the panels seperatly, if you are new to this I DO NOT suggest it. It can be done with some colors, but is difficult for seasoned pros to get all the panels the same color. I would rather have some jam tape lines then a car with p (9) panels all different colors!

[TnBlkC230WZ]

HOK is good stuff, use it often. It is also very resonable price. Keep in mind that even the Shimron line is basically a candy itself. At the top of the color page it tells you it must be shot over white or black, which is a warning it DOES NOT cover. I did a True blue 55 Chevy and sprayed a black / white test card, 7 coats for full coverage. As for painting the panels seperatly, if you are new to this I DO NOT suggest it. It can be done with some colors, but is difficult for seasoned pros to get all the panels the same color. I would rather have some jam tape lines then a car with p (9) panels all different colors!

So the FBC-04 Stato Blue should have some Kandy effect? The color card says it is sprayed over BC-26 White. Should I use that or is KS-10 White sealer sufficient? The tech sheet says to use the appropriate sealer. There are definite advantages to painting the car assembled. I may have to live with the tape lines, I want to look good from the outside.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Exactly. The reason they are telling you what color it is painted over is because of the transparency (sp). The white sealer should be fine though, long as it is all one color.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Ok, for a stategy then.
1. tape off and paint with two coats of KS-10 white sealer the interior from the belt line down, fender and trunk jams and area under the cowl panel. Paint all jams with 3 - 4 coats of FBC-04 Strato Blue and 5 coats of clear coat.

Is it ok to just use the KS-10 on the floor and sides and not paint and seal? There will also be two coats of KP2F primer under the sealer. It will save a bunch on paint costs and it wll not be visable once the interior is installed.

2. tape and paint the inside of the trunk lid and cowl panel with sealer, color and clear as above.

3. Assemble fenders, doors, trunk and hood. The inside of the hood will be chassis black.

4. Seal with with KS-10 then upper part of the interior, exterior and dash. Paint and seal exterior and dash as above.

Question. Is it necessary to flow coat the exterior or can I just buff it out per the tech sheet? It will be a daily driver, not a trailer queen.

[ProdigyCustoms]

I do not use HOK clear. I do not have a clean enough booth for a "flow coat" and the flow coat does not buff well. I am not crazy about buffing any of the HOK clear, so I use a couple other brands, Sherwin Williams or Glasuirt

[TnBlkC230WZ]

What about the laquer clears? I was hoping to go that way to avoid the isocyanates.

[MonzaRacer]

OK as for some real world mateur painting.
First of all all if your doing a first time paint jobe using HoK is ok if you do a lot of research.
also ask them questions and if I remember the HoK is Valspar paint basicly butthey can tell you what can be mixed and matched.
aS for Sherwin williams that is the same as NAPA paints and several other 'brands.
I have painted several things with Tec/Base and have absolutely no problems.
If you have any type of new parts with the black protective primer , scuff and sand all of it for a proper adhesion. Then use some version of an epoxt primer, if you are shooting bare metal use an etching epoxy primer, do all your body work(I like to do majority in fiberglass resin jelly, waterproof, solid and darned near impossible to get off after it sets so you need to get real good at cheese grater work then lots of block work) then after all body work is done seal it again with a coat of the epoxy primer, then after its ready seal it up and use what ever your goiong to need to make your color POP (white,black,red,etc) giver your self a lot of time and shoot 2 good coats of color, give it a good wet sanding to level it all out and make sure you dont sand through the color, then another coat or two of color and then clear it.
Now depending on how I am base/top coating if its same brand materials I will shoot the first coat of clear (and I use high solids clear for more protection too) with some of the base color in it, let it tack up per instructions, and giver 2-3 more coats of clear and let her age for while (reading the recommendations is always good) But I have better shine if I let it get good a setup, let any flex agents or hardners I use(as these tend to take a little extra time to solidify ie paint will be dry but I have had wierd finish polishing issues if I rush)
Then after it well setup I like to giveit a good soap and water wash then follow up with soap and water 1000,1500,2000 color sand, but remember to look for runs and use a nib cutter to level them, and then buff it out with a good system(3M works well for me) and finish up with a perfect it kit and dont be afraid to go back and to the wet sand again.
Dont skimp on guns or compressors, make sure you have the capabilities to use a decent gravity feed HVLP gun, you cna get these from Matco,MAC,Snap-On (I really love the latest Astro pneumatics guns for most of the stuff, but in all honesty I have found that if I control my pressure properly I neverhave to run super high pressures through my good old Sharpe 775.
The last hood I painted was a cowl hood for a guy and we used NAPA paint and it matched pretty good. I took the time to do a lot of prep work on the hood first, laid down 2 coats of epoxt primer to make a good surface(a little over kill on a 'glass hood' but it lays so well (one pint for 2 coats) let it set and then scuffed this and laid on 4 coats of primer sealer sanding between all coats.
I did a light scuff on the last coat, laid on a coat of color, let it set, went back for 2 more coats. then wet sanded the color coats to get it looking good, laid on one more color coat, then came back with a color/clear mix (high solids clear, takes bugs much better) with flex agent, then one more coat of clear. Then wet sanded that with 800-1000 and laid on 2 more coats of clear (also experimented with an add in UV inhibitor at customers request).
After it sat for a day we checked it and it was still a little light so I scuffed it and laid on anther coat of clear with an even lower air presure and kept it medium thinness (my theory is if its thin on the mixing stick its thin on the surface and so far its looking good).
We came back in 2 weeks aftr he came back from buisness trip, I did the wet sand with sanding blocks, soap and water.
I came back with a very mild compound, then went back and worked out with a perfect it pad and got a mirror finish and the color matched perfectly, the dealership never even noted the hood on work order when he took it in for engine work(they note all mods on vehicles now as one tech stoll some guys wheels an dtires and a supercharger (his blower had bad bearings and tires were bald, customer ended up getting new parts for free, the sreia numbers on blower was traced back to techs car, he is in jail ) Any way he asked why his hood wasnt noted on ticket when everything else was. Service manager asked who painted it as it was a dead match by paint scanner (to my surprize too).
And he got a free oil change out of it.
Good luck and read, ask more questions and take all in that you can.
Good Luck.
Lee

[MonzaRacer]

Oh and do not over coat anything with laquer except laquer but since its more or less gone from market forget it.
you will get laquer crazing and cracking as the 2 finishes dont react the same way at same temps, will look good for short time but will go bad very quickly in heat and sunight.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Monza Racer, Good advice. Couple of questions. HOK says not to sand the color coats, only sand the primer and clear. Should I follow the HOK Tek sheets? The tech sheets are pretty specific on tack test, time between coats, substrate, and sanding. I was thinking to do exactly what they say unless there is a good reason to do otherwise.

I will be using a Sharpe Finex 300 HPLV gun with 60 gallon compressor rated at 13.5 CFM at 40 PSI. My gun needs 11.2 CFM at 30 PSI. Is this sufficient? I will also be using a line filter and dryer.

HOK has laquer and urethane clears. The urethanes require an isocyanate catalyst which I'm trying to avoid. All their Shimrin base coats are compatible with either clear.

I would like to stay with one manufacture's products start to finish and follow their process as much as possible.

I will stay away from the Kandies and stay strickly with the bases and I will paint the car assembled after painting the jams.

[lt1chevelle]

if it says not too i would not do it. i have seen guys do it and i think its better left to a guy that has been doing it for a while. if you burn through on some of the edegs your gunna have to sray it again. iam no pro i just paint as a hobby and thats my 2 cents. good luck. also the hok clear is nice my bros nova is painted with hok paint and clear.

Monza Racer, Good advice. Couple of questions. HOK says not to sand the color coats, only sand the primer and clear. Should I follow the HOK Tek sheets? The tech sheets are pretty specific on tack test, time between coats, substrate, and sanding. I was thinking to do exactly what they say unless there is a good reason to do otherwise.

I will be using a Sharpe Finex 300 HPLV gun with 60 gallon compressor rated at 13.5 CFM at 40 PSI. My gun needs 11.2 CFM at 30 PSI. Is this sufficient? I will also be using a line filter and dryer.

HOK has laquer and urethane clears. The urethanes require an isocyanate catalyst which I'm trying to avoid. All their Shimrin base coats are compatible with either clear.

I would like to stay with one manufacture's products start to finish and follow their process as much as possible.

I will stay away from the Kandies and stay strickly with the bases and I will paint the car assembled after painting the jams.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

if it says not too i would not do it. i have seen guys do it and i think its better left to a guy that has been doing it for a while. if you burn through on some of the edegs your gunna have to sray it again. iam no pro i just paint as a hobby and thats my 2 cents. good luck. also the hok clear is nice my bros nova is painted with hok paint and clear.

What color did he paint it? I'm trying to get pics of Strato Blue and Lapis Blue. I would also like to know sequence of coats used.

[Happyfunballs]

You can sand the HOK bases, especially the solid colors, but you will need to lay another coat over the top. Specifically the PBC's and metallics. Honestly, if applied correctly, you won't need to sand the base. I too like the HOK clears. By the way, I notice that you said this will be a daily driver. You may want to stick with a "one color" process because it will make for eaisier matching should you have an oopsie in the future.

[lt1chevelle]

here is my bros car not the color u are looking for but u can see how good the clear looks good whne layed down wet.(car just came from the booth its not wet sanded yet) they paited it by taking the car apart doing the jams and then hanning everything then painting it. he has hok white sealer on it with 4 coats of each color and clear

What color did he paint it? I'm trying to get pics of Strato Blue and Lapis Blue. I would also like to know sequence of coats used.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Happy,
I hope to lay it correctly so I don't have to color sand. I plan to use the lacquer clear. This means I only have to deal with isocyanates in the sealer. I'll try to get by with one coat of sealer. I'm assuming I need the white sealers for the BC04.

Would it look a little darker or a lot darker with the black sealer?

Lt1,
Nice pics. The gloss looks really nice. I see you painted with the engine in the car. I may do the same to reduce the possibilities of scratching the paint.

Does anybody have a pic of Strato Blue or Lapis Blue?

[Happyfunballs]

The darker your sealer, the darker tinted your base will be and vise-versa. Since I'm not big on sealers, I would base everything in white first. Then you can sand out all the imperfections in the white base and prep it for the blue. Just be carefull not to tiger stripe the blue. Perhaps a light gray base would be better for the novice. I don't know why your worried about the isocyanates, a well ventilated area with a respirator and you'll be fine. I'd use the urethanes if I were you.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

The darker your sealer, the darker tinted your base will be and vise-versa. Since I'm not big on sealers, I would base everything in white first. Then you can sand out all the imperfections in the white base and prep it for the blue. Just be carefull not to tiger stripe the blue. Perhaps a light gray base would be better for the novice. I don't know why your worried about the isocyanates, a well ventilated area with a respirator and you'll be fine. I'd use the urethanes if I were you.

I just hear a lot of really bad things about the isocyanates. I do plan on ventilating the garage with a fan and filters. I hope to make a paint booth from plastic sheets and pull air through it.

When you say you are not big on sealers, would you just use the BC-25/26 on top of the primer? Perhaps 4 oz of black to a quart of white.

[Happyfunballs]

It all depends on the primer. If the car is completely covered in primer and all the same color, I wouldn't seal it or base it in white/gray. (Some people seal, some people don't) I've never used the FBC colors you mentioned, but if they cover well, then you'll be fine. I don't think the FBC's are transparent, so coverage shouldn't be an issue. I like as little film build as possible. Iso's are bad if proper preparation and PPE(personal protective equipment) aren't used. Use a fresh charcoal respirator(or fresh air, if you have the means) and make sure you have adequate ventilation(not too much to suck the paint of the car) and you'll be in. Most importantly have fun, I really enjoy painting.