First-Gen S10 Corner Carver

[jerome]

Thanks for the tips hector, the exhaust will unclamp before the crossmember, and I just slide the h-pipe back about 3 inches, the whole exhaust will drop out. If I need to access the front exhaust, then I unbolt at the collector. Even if I had an access notch in the crossmember, I'd have to unbolt at the collector anyways. With the junctions so close to the crossmember, I can just slide exhaust either direction and pull it out.

I'll see if art morrison will bend me up a brace for the panhard bar. Since that mount will unbolt from the frame, I'd like to keep the brace unmountable too. I think i'll weld the brace to the mount, and then bolt it to the other frame rail. How do you usually bolt in a round tube...just a single bolt with tabs?



Also, does anybody know what I can paint exhaust pipes with? Ceramic coating would be too much money I think. Maybe some bbq grill spray paint, says it works up to 1200F?

Jerome

[trackrat79]

Just us a pieace of angle as big or a little biger than the tube u use and about 3" in length and run at least 2 bolts, but I would try and do 4. 2 up from the bottom and 2 from the side.


heres a couple pics to illistrate

[jerome]

got one side done up to the muffler:




clearly the wrong way to use a hanger:


Anybody got a good way to support exhaust pipe from the side or the bottom? I also need a way to support it from a crossmember that is about 1/2" above the pipe.

trackrat, thanks for the pics...the maeir panhard for early mustang was the original inspiration for my design, I can't believe I had such a brain fart. I was trying to think of a way to bolt the tube in, when in reality, I can just weld a flange to the tube and bolt the flange.

Anybody have experience with Inland Empire? They are cheaper than Denny's but Denny's knew what they were talking about on the phone whereas IE had no clue. I asked what the critical rpm on a 4" aluminum was for 59" center to center...the "tech rep" tells me they spin balance everything at 9000+ rpm, it'll be fine. Fine my ass. As long as they build a good driveshaft I'll use them, but they have no clue what they're talking about.

Jerome

[novanutcase]

got one side done up to the muffler:




clearly the wrong way to use a hanger:


Anybody got a good way to support exhaust pipe from the side or the bottom? I also need a way to support it from a crossmember that is about 1/2" above the pipe.

trackrat, thanks for the pics...the maeir panhard for early mustang was the original inspiration for my design, I can't believe I had such a brain fart. I was trying to think of a way to bolt the tube in, when in reality, I can just weld a flange to the tube and bolt the flange.

Anybody have experience with Inland Empire? They are cheaper than Denny's but Denny's knew what they were talking about on the phone whereas IE had no clue. I asked what the critical rpm on a 4" aluminum was for 59" center to center...the "tech rep" tells me they spin balance everything at 9000+ rpm, it'll be fine. Fine my ass. As long as they build a good driveshaft I'll use them, but they have no clue what they're talking about.

Jerome

Looking good!

IE has a pretty good rep so I'm surprised they were clueless to your issue!

Maybe you can make a cradle for the exhaust?

John

[dusterbd13]

if i rememeber the underside of the bed on mine right, somewhere near the gas tank crossmember is a channel on the inderside of the bed. why not weld a stud to that and use a standard hanger?

your other option is to weld a pair of L brackets on. on on the pipe, the other on our crossmember. then use a shock bushing on the bolt as an isolator. i did that on a set of sidepipes once. no extra noise into the interior from it. just make sure to use a vibration proof nut.

Michael