Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 18 of 18
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Norfolk VA
      Posts
      34

      subframe connector question

      do bolt in subframe connectors work at all, or should i go for the big money, hardcore weld in ones.

      now that i have some money to work with, i want to put a set of subframe connectors in, but dont have a welder, or any experience welding.
      i could theoretically take it to a shop to have it professionally done, but was hoping to be able to do this myself.

      obviously weld in is a superior choice, but i want to know if bolt in is a waste of time or is it comparable to weld in?

      sorry if this is a basic question, but the other forum i go to is worthless for anything technical.

      Gordon Bowe



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      Tracy, CA.
      Posts
      1,347
      You're right, weld in connectors are better but the bolt ins will work also just not as stiff. Look at this way...anything is better than nothing.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2003
      Location
      Kirkland, WA
      Posts
      884
      My understanding is that the bolt in connectors are to be avoided, as they concentrate bending loads in the bolt connection of the subframe, which over time, can cause the holes to elongate, therby causing movement of the subframe.

      On my '96 Camaro, I bolted the subframe connectors in, and then had the shop weld them in, as I didn't have the capability to do it myself at the time. In my opinion, I'd do it right, and get the weld in connectors.
      James
      -1969 Camaro Sport Coupe
      -1996 Z28
      -2005 Silverado
      Webpage

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Norfolk VA
      Posts
      34
      any other opinions about this?
      are bolt ons really that bad?

      Gordon Bowe



    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2002
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      1,793
      Bolt-in SFC's WILL fail over time for the reasons James stated above
      1971 Camaro, 383 stroker ~500HP,M21 Trans with lightened flywheel. All Sorts of Auto-x Goodness in the Suspension. 12" Brakes ->SOLD

      But ask me about my 2004 STi Auto-x car...

      Just call me Brett

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Moore, Ok
      Posts
      103
      It depends on what your pupose with the car is? My opinion is the weld in are the way to go but, if you dont have a lot of power and your car dosent launch real hard the bolt-in will probably be fine. Then if you end up building more power later or they start to wear out then weld them up!

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Norfolk VA
      Posts
      34
      well i wont likely be doing much drag racing, and i surely wont have slicks on it.
      the reason i want sfc's is that it has a rebuilt 350 in it that is making a lot more power than the stock 305 ever dreamed of, and basically i dont want any problems later on.

      does this change things?
      do i even need sfc?

      Gordon Bowe



    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
      Posts
      2,870
      Country Flag: United States
      If I am not mistaken Iroc Z's came with 350's in the eighties? I used to race one all the time with my 81 Monte with a stout 327 and win.
      Todd

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Central CA USA
      Posts
      6,114
      Country Flag: United States
      Yes, starting in 1979 you could get the tuned port 350 with auto trans only, - which only had about 10 hp more than the 305.
      I wouldn't get too worried about SFC's if you are not drag racing with slicks.

      You don't want to try welding them in if you don't have good welding skills. Thin floor panels is not the place to learn to weld.
      David
      67 Camaro RS that will be faster than anything Mary owns.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Norfolk VA
      Posts
      34
      the iroc-z became available in 85, and was offered with a 305. the 350 was offered starting in 87 i believe.

      as for the sfc, i was just thinking that it would be extra insurance.

      Gordon Bowe



    11. #11
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Is this for your 85?



      If so they have well engineered bolt in units that work. T top cars would benefit from a set. I took my set off cause I didn't like the way the car felt. Plan on making a triangulated type.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε



    12. #12
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Central CA USA
      Posts
      6,114
      Country Flag: United States
      There was a throttle body 350 available probably 87 or 88, but the IROC used only the tuned port engine and the 350tpi version was first available in 1989. I was autocrossing an 85 Z/28 and bought a new 89 IROC spring of 89 with the dual cats option and low ring and pinion ratio, it had a bit more HP than the std IROC. I recall the hp rating was around 220, maybe 230. The 350 IROC was 1 second faster 0 to 60 and about 1 sec faster on an autocross course. There were a very few 1LE camaros built in 88 that had the 350 engine. I autocrossed against one locally.

      The problem with offering a manual trans at that time was it didn't hold up. The differentials didn't hold up well either. The IROC in 89 used the Aussie Borg Warner 9 bolt diff. It was marginally stronger but still not enough.
      David
      Last edited by David Pozzi; 11-29-2007 at 08:33 PM.
      67 Camaro RS that will be faster than anything Mary owns.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      I wish I bought that 1LE. The black one right?
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    14. #14
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Moore, Ok
      Posts
      103

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Moore, Ok
      Posts
      103
      Thats a customer car i did a few months back, they helped out alot!
      If yours is a t-top car then its not a bad idea!

    16. #16
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice, I had made a set that went outward too and it didn't feel right. I was getting a strange bounce out of turns on the track. Went away after I removed it.

      Did you weld the rocker pinchweld to the bar? That might be the difference.

      I think next time around i'll make a set from the front frame cut into the floor pan straight back to the rear frame rails then put an "X" section over the trans tunnel.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    17. #17
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      Colorado Springs
      Posts
      760
      Think of it this way; You can button the sleeves on a shirt and it will stay together for a while, but eventually the buttons get worn and fall off. If you sew the sleeves on the shirt, then they will stay on longer than the maerial of the fabric will last.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      what about real tight net shirts?
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε





    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com