Simply brilliant or really stupid

[TnBlkC230WZ]

I'm considering haveing the insides of my doors, front fenders and possibly underside of my hood powdercoated chassis black. I've also thought about powdercoating the outsside of them as a base primer. Is any of this a good idea? Will I have problems painting and bondoing later? My sheet metal is pretty straight.

[Project69]

I dont see why you would need to worry about bonod if your powdercoating the insides of things.

[danbob67]

Powdercoating the inside of them sounds harmless but I wouldnt do the outside.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

I dont see why you would need to worry about bonod if your powdercoating the insides of things.

Will the heat from the powder coating process melt or damage any filler already on the door. or fender?

Powdercoating the inside of them sounds harmless but I wouldnt do the outside.

Can you EDP while powerder coating. That would give the outside the same coating as a new panel.

[Duesey2]

I would worry about the heat but I don't have any first hand experience doing this. I know my powdercoater won't coat anything that has filler or paint on it. Seems kinda expensive and pointless to do so. Those are all areas that arent subject to a lot of road debris. A good black epoxy primer and chassis black would be cheaper and hold up great in those spots.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

I would worry about the heat but I don't have any first hand experience doing this. I know my powdercoater won't coat anything that has filler or paint on it. Seems kinda expensive and pointless to do so. Those are all areas that arent subject to a lot of road debris. A good black epoxy primer and chassis black would be cheaper and hold up great in those spots.

My problem is I don't know of a good epoxy primer I can spray in my garage. Most of them are pretty hazardous and require special ventilation equipement.

[danbob67]

Can you EDP while powerder coating. That would give the outside the same coating as a new panel.

EDP is a electro disposition primer it is a little different process than powdercoating and also with powdercoating the surface really needs to be clean that is why parts are usually blasted first so getting the inside of a door that clean would be a little bit tough. Im not really quite sure what the benefit would be to powder coat instead of epoxy/painting these areas.

[Duesey2]

You can get a 3m disposable respirator for 20 dollars and do it outside. Primer doesn't care where it's being sprayed. Unless it's cold outside like it is here. Were talking a few coats and when done outside it disperses quickly. Or check a few local body shops, shops in my area like quick jobs like this and some can give great prices depending on the type of shop. Even paying someone to spray this would be cheaper than powdercoating and no chance of warpage. Good luck.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

You can get a 3m disposable respirator for 20 dollars and do it outside. Primer doesn't care where it's being sprayed. Unless it's cold outside like it is here. Were talking a few coats and when done outside it disperses quickly. Or check a few local body shops, shops in my area like quick jobs like this and some can give great prices depending on the type of shop. Even paying someone to spray this would be cheaper than powdercoating and no chance of warpage. Good luck.

How cold can it be? I've used the disposible repirators. Max spray makes a two part epoxy in a spray can as well.

[newby]

check out HOT ROD's project F bomb (easy to get to from their web page... its under project vehicles)

that body guy did the metal and fab work, then powder coated everything. then he lightly blocked it out (not cutting through) and proceeded to fill and block from there. I have heard of other people doing this as well. body has to be cleared of everything that cant handle 500 deg. F and no bondo etc. must be a bare metal surface.

I have a lot of parts powdered for construction/industrial use and the typical process we use goes like this:
-media blast
-acid dip (aka passivated, removes impurities)
-etching/leveling phosphate powder primer (adds a ton of rust resistance)
-powder

we even do this over 304 (aka 18-8) stainless steel to make it live in extreme salt environments.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

I do like powder coating. I had several parts done such as my heater box and inner fenders. I can't scratch it with a screw driver.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

check out HOT ROD's project F bomb (easy to get to from their web page... its under project vehicles)

that body guy did the metal and fab work, then powder coated everything. then he lightly blocked it out (not cutting through) and proceeded to fill and block from there. I have heard of other people doing this as well. body has to be cleared of everything that cant handle 500 deg. F and no bondo etc. must be a bare metal surface.

I have a lot of parts powdered for construction/industrial use and the typical process we use goes like this:
-media blast
-acid dip (aka passivated, removes impurities)
-etching/leveling phosphate powder primer (adds a ton of rust resistance)
-powder

we even do this over 304 (aka 18-8) stainless steel to make it live in extreme salt environments.

I talked to the guy that does my powdercoating and he said the same thing you did. I have surface rust inside the doors and the one old fender and there process will fix it. It really isn't expensive. Most of my other parts were done for a little more than I could do it myself and the stuff is really tough. The insides of the doors and fenders will be complete when I get them back and it will be virtually impossible for them to rust in the future.

[WGSPEEDSHOP]

Newby, the body guy did not do the fab work! I did.

[RobM]

body work includes hammer and dolly work, this will wreck your powder coat. The very act of using body filler (bondo) includes hammering down high spots. powder coat doesn’t usually flex this much. I don’t see this as a good idea or even close to needed. A high quality surface prep is necessary and then use an epoxy that will actually etch into the metal then top coat to what ever level of finish you want.

[Gordz32]

We have a customer that had is Porsche 911 RSR Clone car powdercoated white after the cage was done. An Though I've never heard of doin this to sheetmetal I've heard it makes for a great base product.

[Duesey2]

Not to mention it will never creep into the pinch welds like epoxy or self etching primer thinned down to creep into these areas. Just seems like a total waste to me.

[69protour]

How about POR-15? Awsome stuff, to cover bare metal and rusty metal... Simple to apply, Kinda messy though, but well worth it, IMHO.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

I sent the doors, old fender, deck lid and cowl out to the shop today. I will only have the insides of the doors and fender powder coated. They will soda blast everything, then I will prime the outsides with HOK KP2CF Epoxy primer.

The sheet metal is very straight. I have light rust inside the door and inside the fender. There is lots of old paint to remove. I will have to work on the cowl panel some.

Thanks for all the input. I'm going to start another thread with HOK questions.