1980 Trans-Am with D1-sc procharger

[spink7124]

Ok guys, finally got up the nerve to start some posting. My project's going extremely slow due to the fact that I work part time and go to school full time. My car is a 1980 trans-am and these first pictures are the way the car was in its last time it moved under its own power. I made all the bracketry to mount to procharger on the motor myself, and the drive is adapted from a BBC. In this form with 8:1 compression and 8lbs of boost the car was making about 425-450hp. It ran good enough to crack the block and break the ricmond 5 speed 3 different times. The car also has an 8 point cage with swing out door barsm, bolt in frame connectors, and I made the shifter myself; the grip is off of a ruger super redhawk 44 turned upsided down, the button runs the linelock.



James

[spink7124]

The block in the car was a late '75, they started windowing the mains to save weight. The replacement '71 block I have is 16 pounds heavier. As i pulled the motor out, one thing lead to another and the next thing i new i was seem welding the subframe and cutting out the firewall to move the engine back. The alcove in the firewall is made from the bottom of a wheel barrow with 4 1/2" added to it. Please excuse the lack of paint and prettiness on everything, I'm still mocking things up.
Instead of the original motor mounts i decided to use motor plates, locating the motor as well as adding stiffness to the frame through the engine block-a cast block has got to be alot stiffer than a stamped steel frame-right? On the front plate i had 1/4" milled off the timing cover and cut a plate out of 1/4" aluminum, where the water pump bolts up the 1/4" of milling on the timing cover actually broke through, so i had the pieces welded together, as well as filling the place where the fuel pump bolts. The frame has corresponding tabs so that everything bolts up. The rear plate is a copy of the 1/8" block saver that came with my scattersheild, just with extra tabs added so that it can bolt to the frame. The engine actually sits behind the front wheels now, it is about 5 3/4" rearward of where it used to be and 1/2" lower.

James

[spink7124]

The wiper motor now hides in the passenger side fender, with an extended linkage to make it work. For the front suspension, Im running speedway motors 600# springs with hidden adjusters, SPC upper control arms with SC&C tall ball joints (haven't got the ball joints yet), and stock car products lower a-arms, they come with monoballs instead of bushings as well as using big chrysler lower ball joints. I'm using a stock t/a 1 1/4" sway bar with end links and mounts that I made.

James

[spink7124]

For brakes, I turned down 3rd gen t/a rotors and bought a kit from Kore 3 to mount c6 calipers and rotors on the front, the brackets and the kit fit and look great.
James

[Posi12Bolt]

i love the fab you did for the blower! thats awesome!

[spink7124]

Here's some more pics of the brakes, as well as the wheels I plan on using, 17x9.5 ZO6 motorsports with a 275-40 all the way around.
James

[NOT A TA]

Looks like it's going to be really nice ! keep updating!

[hoosiergta]

I second the motion,great fabwork.Sorry about the last block. Just curious,any idea front to rear weight distibution? Dan

[spink7124]

Dan,
No idea yet, but once it runs again i will definitely get it scaled and report the results; i don't think there will a hugely significant difference but it has to help as the motor is now completely behind the front wheels.

James

[uwntsumrtII]

Looks great! nothin like doing your own fab work and it turning out awesome in the end. i hope to get my project off the ground come spring time. keep us updated