Sprayable Body Filler

[rubadub]

duesy2, that 37 cord you have, has some pretty thick sheet metal, a guy can do quite a bit of grinding and fileing on that, but this is what were working with.



http://www.1969supersport.com/smthoughts.html

Rob

[Duesey2]

Rob,
Your right, old cars have more sheet metal. I have a 69'z28 in the shop that I've already painted. Did the same thing to it and it's not as easy but I did it the same way. Minus the grinder though since muscle car sheetmetal is so thin you can make a mess in a hurry. Just a file, technique, and time. I do like the idea of spraying the filler so their isn't the padel lines but the solvent evaporation has to equate shrinkage. What kind of thickness are we talking about? I don't like to spread fillers more than a 1/16" anywhere but sometimes you have to when you can't get to the backside.

[MrQuick]

I wasn't trying to stir anything or brag. Just curious as to what type of inperfections your using it for. Just got the sheet metal back from stripping for a 37' cord and I'll be spending all weekend with a pick hammer and body file in my hands. I get it straight with my file and body grinder then I put epoxy primer on. Let it sit a couple weeks and block it with afs blocks picking any low spots that I missed. Then I wipe low spots with steel spreaders and block down. Then a couple more coats of epoxy, block and then usually another coat of epoxy and finish block. Seal and paint. Just what I've been taught and it works really well with minimal materials. I guess my grandfather saw so many problems early with spray fillers and bondo that he strayed away from the products. That is why I was curious as to what is being filled.

Its not like they are throwing on Sandy with a texture gun.

[newby]

what ever you do, just remember to sand the crap back down. doing the restoration phase of my car and found literally 1/8" of spray plastic on the whole back half of the car...

when I first started stripping, i was like OH S**T! but it was kind of b.s. Once I got it stripped down, the damage they were covering up was minimal. the shop that did the repairs was just lazy and didn't do any dolly work, they just sprayed it with plastic, primed, painted and out the door.

I told you that story to tell you this one...

I did not see any cracks or other obvious flaws in this 'abuse' case. hell, except for noticing the body lines were a little thick (which I attributed to the known repaint) I thought the car had original sheet metal etc. I was wrong.

anyway, my best guess is that this lazy repair work was done in the mid 80s so that would be a 20yr guarantee for you.

[hotrdblder]

hate to tell ya but pe spray filler looks noting like body filler, doesn't strip, sand or other anything like body filler. not sure what was on your car

[Gordz32]

At BOS, we strip to bare metal, DP epoxy coat, then do our body work and gap adjustments, then we use PCL 901 poly 2K 3 coats, then dry sand, then we use a high build urethane 3 coats, Wetsand , Seal it DP 1 med/wet coat and paint. If you can metal finsh a car thats great but most customers to wanna pay for the time it takes. Not to mention the body fillers and primers today a lightyears away from what they used to be so its okay as long aas they r used correctly.

[newby]

hate to tell ya but pe spray filler looks noting like body filler, doesn't strip, sand or other anything like body filler. not sure what was on your car

I dont want to hijack this thread, but it definitely wasn't any type of filler I had seen before. it was a very light color (almost like an off white), evenly coated throughout the entire back half of the car, no lines from being applied in layers, did not smell like bondo coming off (judging from my cloths, i always wear a respirator) and was super easy to knock off with a wire brush. I did find some regular old bondo under it in some bad places. but I could see the layers and it was a the normal pinkish color and was much more difficult to sand

[BulldawgMusclecars]

I use Spies-Hecker Spray Poly and love it. Its going to make my Vette project MUCH easier. Its relatively straight (for a Vette), but this stuff is awesome on fiberglass, and will enable me to get out all the imperfections with ease. I'll be doing the whole car in Spies-Hecker products.

[Duesey2]

Gordz32, that is a lot of material to pile onto bare metal. Not to mention plenty of solvent evaporation. I guess I can't see as to what needs that kind of fill. Oh, and be careful with that vette, less is more with fiberglass. C3's are better than the early cars but they still can soak up material like a sponge. Absolutely no reason to use any kinds of spray poly on a c3. Vette bond for the seams and a couple rounds of epoxy work great on vettes. I guess when I do a car I want it to look the same in 20 years but some of the procedures I see around here are suspect to redo in 5years. I'm not trying to insult anyone, just my opinion from experience.

[hotrdblder]

duesey please show us all your killer metal work, you must be better then troy, berman, ring bros etc, you must have it figured out please show us

[68fusion]

Gordz32, that is a lot of material to pile onto bare metal. Not to mention plenty of solvent evaporation. I guess I can't see as to what needs that kind of fill. Oh, and be careful with that vette, less is more with fiberglass. C3's are better than the early cars but they still can soak up material like a sponge. Absolutely no reason to use any kinds of spray poly on a c3. Vette bond for the seams and a couple rounds of epoxy work great on vettes. I guess when I do a car I want it to look the same in 20 years but some of the procedures I see around here are suspect to redo in 5years. I'm not trying to insult anyone, just my opinion from experience.

I'll agree withe the bond but epoxy no way! The solvents used to spray go directly into glass? no gel coat? just like k36 or similar ...looks good till it gets out in the sun - then watchout! sandscratchs , bonding seams repairs ...they all come back.

Poly or gel/combo only way to go!

[danbob67]

I dont want to hijack this thread, but it definitely wasn't any type of filler I had seen before. it was a very light color (almost like an off white), evenly coated throughout the entire back half of the car, no lines from being applied in layers, did not smell like bondo coming off (judging from my cloths, i always wear a respirator) and was super easy to knock off with a wire brush. I did find some regular old bondo under it in some bad places. but I could see the layers and it was a the normal pinkish color and was much more difficult to sand

Sound like marhyd sp? primer to me you can put that stuff on thick and it sands nice and actually hear of alot of people still using it. Kinda of a light tan off white color.

[BADVELLE]

What is PE filler?

[Travis B]

Gordz32, that is a lot of material to pile onto bare metal. Not to mention plenty of solvent evaporation. I guess I can't see as to what needs that kind of fill. Oh, and be careful with that vette, less is more with fiberglass. C3's are better than the early cars but they still can soak up material like a sponge. Absolutely no reason to use any kinds of spray poly on a c3. Vette bond for the seams and a couple rounds of epoxy work great on vettes. I guess when I do a car I want it to look the same in 20 years but some of the procedures I see around here are suspect to redo in 5years. I'm not trying to insult anyone, just my opinion from experience.

I have my bull**** flag at full mass......lets see some pics. I got money that says

A: There is more than 1/16 of filler/product on your car
B: Its not straight
C: all of the above

You cant come into the body section of a Forum and claim you dont use more than 1/16 of filler on a car? Are you building plastic models? lets see some pictures

Im going with C

[Gordz32]

Gordz32, that is a lot of material to pile onto bare metal. Not to mention plenty of solvent evaporation. I guess I can't see as to what needs that kind of fill. Oh, and be careful with that vette, less is more with fiberglass. C3's are better than the early cars but they still can soak up material like a sponge. Absolutely no reason to use any kinds of spray poly on a c3. Vette bond for the seams and a couple rounds of epoxy work great on vettes. I guess when I do a car I want it to look the same in 20 years but some of the procedures I see around here are suspect to redo in 5years. I'm not trying to insult anyone, just my opinion from experience.

Keep in mind that most of that primer gets sanded off, so there really isn't that much material. Our Cars are straight and they shine way better than most. They r straight b/c we block the crap outta them b4 paint. Bottom line is our customers are happy and usually say, the cars turns out to nice! Feel free to stop by the shop, and talk with our customers about how happy they r with our work.

If you can find a customer that would like his car metal finished, and agrees to pay the ridiculous amount of hours it would take to do that good luck and more power to ya. As for right now. I'd really love to see a car that you've done and see JUST HOW STRAIGHT IT IS!!!

Lets try and stay on topic and answer the guys question about spray able body filler. You've spoke ur peace and I suggest you leave it at.

[68fusion]

I have my bull**** flag at full mass......lets see some pics. I got money that says

A: There is more than 1/16 of filler/product on your car
B: Its not straight
C: all of the above

You cant come into the body section of a Forum and claim you dont use more than 1/16 of filler on a car? Are you building plastic models? lets see some pictures

Im going with C

I guess there are varrious degrees of "straightness".

[Duesey2]

I'm sorry to stir the pot. Frank was the only guy that really answered my question and I appreciate that. You probably won't have much trouble spraying filler on newer cars. I'm just thinking 20's,30's,40's stuff with distinct lines. The thicker the material the harder it is to get the lines smooth and crisp. Spreadable filler has more control around these lines. I'm sure their are certain areas that have a 1/16" of filler when I'm done. That is about my target for bondo plus the thickness of 2coats epoxy, blocked and 2 more coats.but I'm sure it goes over sometimes. I don't do taco bell cars, I don't use an air board, and I have a 3' afs sander with 40grit klingspor paper that will make a car as straight as anyone can. Once again I apoligize for anything offensive or different from what you use. I'll leave this topic alone.

[HEMIDAYTONA]

I'm sorry to stir the pot. Frank was the only guy that really answered my question and I appreciate that. You probably won't have much trouble spraying filler on newer cars. I'm just thinking 20's,30's,40's stuff with distinct lines. The thicker the material the harder it is to get the lines smooth and crisp. Spreadable filler has more control around these lines. I'm sure their are certain areas that have a 1/16" of filler when I'm done. That is about my target for bondo plus the thickness of 2coats epoxy, blocked and 2 more coats.but I'm sure it goes over sometimes. I don't do taco bell cars, I don't use an air board, and I have a 3' afs sander with 40grit klingspor paper that will make a car as straight as anyone can. Once again I apoligize for anything offensive or different from what you use. I'll leave this topic alone.

just out of curiosty...why would you use 40 grit to sand filler that is that thin. i would think if you spend that much time metal working and using 2 coats primer that you would be in the 100 grit at the coarest.

[indyjps]

he's using the 40 grit on the steel itself.
Ive seen metal finishers in action. I used to run the metal finish shop in a GM stamping plant, what these guys could do with a hammer and file was amazing. Im guessing Duesey2 is using the same techniques.
Ill be using the pe filler myself so keep the discussion going.