Sprayable Body Filler

[rubadub]

Just want to pass on what I have read on different forums.

For us amateurs like myself, if the pros see a mistake here, please feel free to correct me.

I will mention three sprayable body fillers here, there are more.

1. Featherfill by evercoat

2. Slicksand by evercoat, slicksand kind of replaced featherfill as far popularity

3. Z-chrome by Clausen

Sprayable body filler is also called, Polyester Primer Surfacer.

Its a two part, Or 2k, as in two componets, it has a hardener or catalyst, or something mixed with it. Its not a single component, as in one part.

They all have a resin and talc in them, so there not waterproof, only waterproof if sealed under and over by another product.

So we have sprayable body filler, versus the body filler in a can that we call mud or bondo, that also has a hardener in a little tube that we squeeze out in a ribbon, and mix it in with a putty knife or spreader.

Why use a sprayable body filler.

If you have several dents along the side of your car, you fill them with bondo, its hard to get the panels straight by working each dent.

So we have all the dents filled and sanded, go out the next morning, and feel along the side of the car, and it still feels a little wavy.

Another thing that comes into play, you might have a little shrinkage with the bondo areas. Anyway we'll spray some 2k urethane, like maybe some k-38 or whatever you like, a couple coats, then we'll sand that off, but somewhere along the line, we will cut through the k-38 and see bondo.

So respray some more k-38 and sand again, then hopefully we won't sand through to bondo again, but its a pretty good bet we will.

This is where sprayable body filler comes into the program. We'll spray the whole side of the car, and this will be a lot thicker them the k-38 we just sprayed, gives us some working room, get a longer sanding block out, and your not going to break through to the bondo underneath as easy.

You will see the different colored bondo under the sprayable filler if you do sand through it.

Because the sprayable filler is so much thicker, you can cross hatch sand with a block to get those panels straight.

So sprayable filler is just bondo out of a spray can, only layed out more evenly on those body panels.

If you use sprayable body filler, you will need a larger nozzle for your spray gun, get the one they call for, or it could get nasty.

I use z-chrome sprayable body filler, but I'm sure some of these others are just as good or maybe better, I've only used one brand.

When your spraying it, you will need to kind of shake the spray gun around every so often, because the filler will separate in the paint cup and kind of settle to the bottom.

A little on just body filler here, or mud or bondo. We here rage or rage gold mentioned quite a bit, then you hear everglass, duraglass and metal to metal, all of these are bondo.

They all have resin and talc in them, so if it has talc in it, like metal to metal, I just went out to the shop and read it right off the can, its not waterproof like they say. None of it is if it has talc in it.

To the point here, when you put bondo on top of bare metal, there is a chance for condensation to get in between the two, thats why over the last couple of years, for the most part, you hear epoxy this and epoxy that.

Bondo over freshly ground metal will really stick, and might last forever, but cars are subject to temperature change, so why not get the extra protection of an epoxy under the bondo.

I have also read that some of these cars are on there second restoration, I'm guessing here, but if epoxy would have been used, would they have to redo these cars again.

Anyway, one way to go here.

First bare metal, then spray epoxy, then bondo, then sprayable filler, then either more epoxy or a k-38 or some two part urethane primer, should take care of the protection on a car body.

I looked at evercoats tech sheet on spraying epoxy under metal to metal, and they don't mention it, so I don't know whats going on with that, in fact I haven't looked to see if they recommend it under there other body fillers, you can read up on it yourself if you decide on evercoat products, I personnaly haven't noticed anything wrong with them, evercoat, I'm sure is as good or better then others.

Whatever product you buy, get the tech sheet from the counter guy, or have him print one out.

I mentioned everglass and duraglass.

Both of them are bondo, like rage and whatever, but these two have fiberglass mixed in it. If you have welded areas, take it to bare metal, then epoxy, then duraglas, then rage etc.

The fiberglass will hang in there better on the welded joints, so I've read.

This is all pretty basic stuff, if you want more stuff like this, let me know.

Rob

[Smock67]

Thanks for the informative read. I liked that very much too bad i just finished all the body work on my car. this would have been much easier then bondo and icing.

[oestek]

Another benefit to consider with the sprayable polyester is that it greatly reduces the chances and occurances of pinholes... when you mix traditional body filler, you introduce air bubbles into the mix, which can be spread on the panel with the filler. These become "pinholes" when sanded and are exposed, and they will need to be re-surfaced with another filler product. The sprayable goes on wet; it does not hold air pockets.

Another nice feature is that most sprayable products (add Standox to the mix) are very easy to sand.. the Standox product literally feels like sanding chalk. This reduces the effort and time to complete the work.

Here's a video on the subject:

http://v8tvshow.com/content/view/368/43/

[Damn True]

Am I wrong or do poly products have to be dry sanded only?

[hotrdblder]

yes they have to be dry sanded why? they are so so nice, especially when blocking inbetween panels, standox builds 40-50 mils in 5 coats, i sand with 100 then 180, then 3 coats of 2k hs system filler, then wet sand 400, wet sand 600
only way to fly

[ProdigyCustoms]

Standox is the snaz! Pricey at $58 per litre, but well worth it. Evercoat is kindergarden. We have a Standox knock off (cannot say it is Standox in a different can for legal reason) that is $40 a litre. We use it a lot, often in place of typical primer building. Our primer is often more of a sealer with the PE Filler doing the filling work.

[Damn True]

So is there no reason to wet-sand primer?

[hotrdblder]

you cannot wet sand poly, it is not water proof, however urethane primer is as waterproof as clear, i always wet sand the urethane with 400 then 600. however yes you can dry sand 400 then 600 also, i prefer wet as it cleanes up better and i rinse the whole car before spraying anyway.
jake

[Taylor1969]

Standox is the snaz! Pricey at $58 per litre, but well worth it. Evercoat is kindergarden. We have a Standox knock off (cannot say it is Standox in a different can for legal reason) that is $40 a litre. We use it a lot, often in place of typical primer building. Our primer is often more of a sealer with the PE Filler doing the filling work.

So what is the stuff you buy at $40 a liter called?

[ProdigyCustoms]

It is a secret! Actually we import it. it is called MIPA. I need to get my S--t together and get my shipping licsence for it.

[zero g]

Standox is the snaz! Pricey at $58 per litre, but well worth it. Evercoat is kindergarden. We have a Standox knock off (cannot say it is Standox in a different can for legal reason) that is $40 a litre. We use it a lot, often in place of typical primer building. Our primer is often more of a sealer with the PE Filler doing the filling work.

So the Evercoat is not good?

[ProdigyCustoms]

I basically hate it.

[70 Chevelle]

Can anyone tell me what gun their usin with sprayable fillers? Every time I use it ,it turns into a headache. I know the tip on my primer gun is too small. Something affordable if possible. could you also tell me what tip size to use. Sorry, I don't mean to change subjects but it's an important part of laying this stuff down.

[hotrdblder]

iwata has a gun made by an affiliate, called air gunsa, you can find it on iwata's website, i use it for standox pe sprayfiller and i use a 3.0 tip, works great, and you can find them online for 100-150.

[rubadub]

I use a binks #7 with a 36SD air nozzle and a 36 fluid nozzle.

Also use the same setup for ppg dp90lf dp402lf epoxy, lays it on there really nice.

Rob

[Duesey2]

What are you guys filling with this stuff? Just curious as a good metal guy shouldn't need to be spraying filler. Most panels shouldn't need more than a skim for perfection. Does this stuff shrink more than standard filler? I would think it would since normal filler doesn't have solvent evaporation like these sprayables. Only experience I have with featherfill is my grandfather telling me how bad it was in the 70's. It wasn't good from what I remember and he used to say you have no business doing metal work if your using it. He is an old school lead guy that is just now starting to trust plastic fillers. Apparently it wasn't good when it came out. I know my experience is worthless since this stuff has came along way but I was just curious what type of application it's being used for.

[ProdigyCustoms]

What are you guys filling with this stuff? Just curious as a good metal guy shouldn't need to be spraying filler. .

Are you this guy? I am looking for the guy that can do this. Even the great Marcels work has to be filled and blocked, just watch Boyds show. The Polyester Spray filler takes the place of the "skim coat" in most situations without the "skim lines" of bondo. Anything requireing a "skim coat" is much better done with PE filler. Shrink wise, when PE filler tightenes up, it is done shrinking for life. The Germans are the best in the world at paint and body and P and B products, and they have been using PE fillers for many years

[Rick D]

What Frank Said if you can do this with out blocksanding a few time I've got a BIG PAY CHECK for you. Frank we get Mipa reps coming by us all the time, maybe because we are in Chicago market?? We use Spies Hecker from start to finish, used to use Standox for the last 10 years love it. Spies is same product for the most part just diff labels. PE filler is the best for making a car straight.

[customcarpainter]

Sprayable"filler" is like any other product that is used in the paint and body field.If its used properly and not abused it will work as its supposed to.More often than not paint products get abused in the application process,which often results in the product getting a bad rap.If you use the best product in your price range,and use it as the label instructions say,then the results in the end should be satisfactory for your needs.You can't expect a lasting show quality job for 1/2 price.

[Duesey2]

I wasn't trying to stir anything or brag. Just curious as to what type of inperfections your using it for. Just got the sheet metal back from stripping for a 37' cord and I'll be spending all weekend with a pick hammer and body file in my hands. I get it straight with my file and body grinder then I put epoxy primer on. Let it sit a couple weeks and block it with afs blocks picking any low spots that I missed. Then I wipe low spots with steel spreaders and block down. Then a couple more coats of epoxy, block and then usually another coat of epoxy and finish block. Seal and paint. Just what I've been taught and it works really well with minimal materials. I guess my grandfather saw so many problems early with spray fillers and bondo that he strayed away from the products. That is why I was curious as to what is being filled.