Modding a Rigid Bandsaw to cut steel

**sanddan** · 01-27-2005

I had the same problem with my Jet 4x6 bandsaw. The link below outlines how to set up this type of saw. Mine now works better than it ever has. Hope this helps.
Dan

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Bandsaw.htm#bandsaw

**BADVELLE** · 01-27-2005

Originally Posted by sanddan

I had the same problem with my Jet 4x6 bandsaw. The link below outlines how to set up this type of saw. Mine now works better than it ever has. Hope this helps.
Dan

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Bandsaw.htm#bandsaw

Thanks for the info, I just ordered one today.

**astroracer** · 01-27-2005

Originally Posted by BADVELLE

I bought that vertical/horizontal from Harbor Freight thinking it would be great for my shop use. I have adjusted and re-adjusted and it still throws the blade almost everytime. I am only cutting 1/16" plate and taking my time at that. I am just done fooling with it, going back today. I just believe I actually paid for what I got, a piece of crap!! I always say, you can't polish a terd and in this case I seem to be right!

See if this link works...
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Bandsaw.htm#Table
Craig,
Are you using the original blade? I'll garauntee that is 99% of your problem if you are. A wood blade is much to aggressive for thin sheet metal also. Order up a couple of 14T Bi-metal blades from McMaster-Carr or Graingers. I know you will see a big difference in performance with a good blade. Slow the saw down as much as you can when cutting thinner stock. Swap the belts to the slowest speed. Also crank up the belt tension as high as you can with your hand using the plastic knob.
I have one of these saws that I've been using for 24 years with no complaints... I guess I should buy it a beer next time I use it...

Mark

**BADVELLE** · 01-28-2005

Originally Posted by astroracer

See if this link works...
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Bandsaw.htm#Table
Craig,
Are you using the original blade? I'll garauntee that is 99% of your problem if you are. A wood blade is much to aggressive for thin sheet metal also. Order up a couple of 14T Bi-metal blades from McMaster-Carr or Graingers. I know you will see a big difference in performance with a good blade. Slow the saw down as much as you can when cutting thinner stock. Swap the belts to the slowest speed. Also crank up the belt tension as high as you can with your hand using the plastic knob.
I have one of these saws that I've been using for 24 years with no complaints... I guess I should buy it a beer next time I use it...

Mark

Hey Mark - Thanks for the input, I will order up the bi-metal blades. I am going to try this JET saw today. It looks alot sturdier than the HF 4x6 and I like that it has height adjust pads for leveling. Thanks again for the help.

**parsonsj** · 01-30-2005

I picked up a new Ridgid bandsaw this past week (from Home Depot) and received Paul Ruggles' adaptation kit for it Thursday. I put it together in a couple of hours, and I've been cutting steel and aluminum all weekend with it.

I have two words: IT ROCKS!

I've retired my jigsaw (aka the metal terror) from metal cutting. The bandsaw cuts everything I've tried: 22 g steel all the the way to 3/16 steel. Plus some .060 and .090 aluminum. I get nice accurate cuts, and low noise and vibration. When I want to cut something, I just flip on the saw and cut.

Here's a couple pics. I gotta go cut some more stuff.

Highly recommended.

jp

**baz67** · 01-30-2005

I was able to use this saw with JP this weekend. The only problem I have found is that it is not in my garage.

Brian

**astroracer** · 01-31-2005

I picked up my new (used) band saw Saturday but haven't had time to put it back together and fire it up. It has a gearbox on the side and the motor and gearbox have step pulleys. I did get some measurments of the pulleys so I'll plug those into the SFPM calculations tonight. I just ran out of time this weekend to get anything done.
Mark

**BADVELLE** · 01-31-2005

I picked up my new JET horizontal/vertical bandsaw on Friday, works great. I have been cutting steel all weekend on it. The workmanship and quality of parts is unbelievable for $260.

**astroracer** · 02-01-2005

I worked on the new/old band saw last night, roughly calculating the blade speed SFPM. This saw is an older (1985) model but it has a speed reducer gearbox that actually gets the blade speed down to a slow enough speed that will efficiently cut steel. The speed reducer has a 17.5:1 reduction so I can play around with pulley diameters to slow it down even more if I have to. I’ll be pulling the gearbox apart to clean it and change the oil but the saw was well taken care of from what I can see and it did not see a lot of use. It was a killer deal for $132 dollars.
Working through the calculations I get a blade speed of 157.54 sfpm on the outer step pulleys and that jumps up to 231 sfpm on the next set. I will probably play with pulley sizes to get the cutting speed to around 170 or 180 sfpm. This will be a whole lot easier to do then I was expecting. I will not have to build a jack shaft system like John did for his saw. The gearbox was a pleasant surprise...

**JohnUlaszek** · 02-01-2005

Astro,
Sou nds like you got yourself a deal there. You might want to see if you can change a pulley to further slow your speed down as 150 is still a bit fast for sheet metal. If you can get around 80sfpm I think you will be happier with the results on the thin stuff.

**astroracer** · 02-01-2005

My thinking exactly John. A 2" dia. pully will probably do it. I'll probably get a different step pulley with some smaller diameters and just swap them out when I need to. I'll get a little more accurate with my calculations tonite.
Mark

**JohnUlaszek** · 02-01-2005

Astro,
Keep in mind a 2" diameter pulley may require a cogged v-belt. A standard v-belt might have trouble down to that diameter.

**JohnUlaszek** · 02-05-2005

This picture shows how much a saw designed for cutting wood really needs to be slowed down, the first driven pulley is a blur compared to the final pulley that looks like its at a dead stop in this 1/60th of a second exposure.

**parsonsj** · 02-09-2005

I just gotta post one more time on this thread.

If you are doing sheetmetal work, and you don't have an upright bandsaw: GET ONE!!!

Tonight I made a couple of little filler pieces from 20g steel. They are no bigger than my thumb, and I made a template from heavy paper. I transferred the pattern, and cut the sheetmetal. I could not have done that with a jigsaw, plasma cutter, nibbler, or any other sheetmetal tool I've ever tried. The parts fit right into place the first time.

What a timesaver.

jp

**baz67** · 02-09-2005

JP, too bad you have almost all of the sheetmetal work done now.

Brian

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**rolandska** · 06-14-2005

did this ever get anywhere other than the prototype stage? I'm still interested in doing it.

**parsonsj** · 06-15-2005

I use mine all the time. Recently I changed blades and speeds (takes 3 minutes) and cut some .800 aluminum, some 1/4" stainless, and some 3/8" mild steel. Switched back to the sheetmetal blade, and cut 18g stainless sheet all weekend.

Head over to http://www.x1nova.com and drop Ulaszek a line. He can get you in touch with Paul Ruggles.

jp

**B Schein** · 06-15-2005

They had this saw on sale @ the local home depot this weekend for $299.00

Brian

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