Leaf Spring Suspension-Orientation question

[astroracer]

I am in the process of redesigning the rear rails for Bad Ast with the intention of pinching the front of the leaf springs inboard 1 1/2" per side (rather then running them straight fore and aft). The reason for this is to tighten up road feel and improve response out of a corner. I cannot find any info on optimizing this setup. All of the circle jerk sites are pretty vague and usually generalize the dimension between 1.5 to 3.00" per side.
Any direction or input any of you may have (Katz or Davi Pozzi) would be greatly appreciated.
This requires building the front and rear hangers with a bit of an angle, a little over 1.5 degs. and I need to know that what I am doing is going to work...
Thanks guys.
Mark

[Salt Racer]

Sorry Mark, I can't help you on this.

I was asked the exact same question by another member here, and I didn't have the answer. I have a pretty good idea of how to setup an existing leaf setup, but I just don't have enough experience designing it from scratch.

Maybe (big maybe...) info like this can be found in SAE's Fundamentals of Vehicle Dynamics book R114. I really need to buy this book, but I haven't been able to so far. RCVD obviously doesn't have much info of leaf setup.

[David Pozzi]

First gen Camaro springs are toed-in. I can check on how much for reference. I'm not sure I have a reference book that shows why. Earlier GM designs for front seem to have the lower A arm holes aimed at the center of the differential. early GM rear axles used the torque tube design and toe in of the springs may have been used on those to either reduce binding or reduce toe steer of the rear axle but I'm guessing.

When an arched spring flattens it get's longer and steers the rear axle, the toe in of the springs may have helped.