Which power adder for this SBC Engine?

[HLSASS]

I currently am running a nitrous system on this engine and have had it with filling up the bottles, leaks, etc. I would like to convert the engine to either twin turbo setup or or supercharger. Although it looks nice to package it all under the hood, I'm a little nostalgic for a roots sticking out of the hood. Could someone help me with what I'd need to change on the engine to put 650-700HPHP to the flywheel? I currently put out 500 HP at the flywheel at 6000 RPM and with the juice, it pushes 650 but I'd like to do it without the juice. I appreciate the help!

10.5:1 compression
Stroked/Bored .30 350 block to 385
Holley 750 Carb
Edelbrock Victor Jr. Intake 2975
Dart Heads
Cold Fusion 150 HP Nitrous System
SCAT 4340 3.750 Crank
SCAT Rods
Splayed Caps
SRP-138094 Pistons
Erson-919314 Solid Roller Lifters
R-276-500 282-400 R110 Cam

[Adam's 55 Chevy]

Sell the nitrous kit, carb, pistins and cam and buy a Procharger for it. Easy attain your HP goal. To change to a rootes blower you need to wap the manifold as well. An ideal CR would be 8- 8.5:1 for either set up. Everything else looks A OK.

[HLSASS]

Thanks for the heads up. Any idea what the market would be for the carb, pistons, cam? The engine was professionally built and has 2000 miles on it.

Also, it is possible to squirt nitrous into a pro-charged engine? I have a dual bottle setup in the trunk. I guess I will have to update the fuel system as well.

Lastly, which model pro-charger would you recommend?

thanks for your suggestions!

[TonyL]

Yes it's possible to nitrous a supercharged engine. But the risk of detonation skyrockets. Look into a water/methanol injection system like the one from snow performance to cool the intake charge, at the moment of use or high demand. Could save an engine. And it allows you to run a higher compression ratio.

http://www.snowperformance.net/

[Adam's 55 Chevy]

Speak to Frank on here (Progidy Customs) he knows more about whats best for your set up than most but at a guess I would say D1 or F1.

[DeltaT]

People are getting great results on a 9.0 or 9.5:1 CR with a Vortech or Procharger. Adding a good intercooler lets you run even more boost safely. No need to go really low on the CR unless you go Roots.

Make sure you get a cam tailored for your application if you go with a supercharger - and get the cam done by someone that knows blowers really well.

Jim

[Texas Hotrod]

You almost have the perfect combo for a turbo motor. Change over to a set of D-cup pistons, swap in a turbo cam, send the carb to CSU and it'll be set (so to speak).
The question that nobody asked is: What kind of power are you looking for??? An instant hit, or do you not mind a little lag in power??? It won't be cheap which ever way you go.
A roots blower will have quick power delivery. The instant you floor the pedal, it'll be making max torque. A Pro charger (Paxton, Powerdine, etc...) needs to be wound up before the power comes in. Pulleys can be changed for faster spool up times, but still, it's not instantanious like a true blower.
On the down side, blowers and super chargers take power to make boost. It takes power to drive the pulleys and pump the air. At least with a 6-71 type blower, the rotor speeds are slower than a mini blower and tend to develop boost easier. The major complaint when dealing with a Pro charger is belt slippage. Low boost is no problem, mid #s cause issues w/surpentine belts and high levels of boost almost require a cog system.

If you truely want big power #s, a turbo system is the only way to go. The way I see it, the stock block is the only limiting factor in your combo. You could easily make 1Khp by making a few changes in your combo with the addition of a good quality turbo system. Intercooling is a big benefit, but (like Tony L said) met/water has been proven to help almost as much. I'coolers take up more space and require more plumbing.
I built this system for Alex's car. It could have been built easier and cheaper, but he could afford the costs and I have the abilities. This is what we came up with. ---click on the pic---


Out of the box, on the first boosted run (in my webshots vid), the waste gates were set at 10psi, with traction being the only issue. I hit 2nd gear the instant the tires lit off. If the turbos (turbo) are sized properly, there's virtually no lag. Small turbos will come on instantly, but will have limited high end out-put. Bigger turbos are capable of of producing a hard mid/top end punch with big power potential. So if there is any lag, it could be tickled w/a little nitrous to get things spooling. Dual staging (one smaller/one larger) can give good results of both, no lag w/big #s.

The car is a complete package, so it's made to take it. Changing waste gate springs, and it's good for up to 20psi (no worries about a belt slipping), easily in the range of 1Khp. Intercooling would easily add a lot more to those #s (1200 to 1300?).

Turbo system??? You'll need the proper fuel system (similar to an e.f.i. set-up) and the proper MSD boxes. Is your tranny/rear axle up to it??? Brakes???
The biggest issue for me was the proper header system. Since I didn't find anything I liked, I built my own.
The big question is: How much do you want to spend????

[66chad]

The setup u have will work with straight supercharging at 10.5 to 1. The alcohol and or intercooling does work great. A serp. belt will run 25 psi up to 1000+h.p. with the right setup u need to run a extra idler on the bottom of the belt and a large pulley on the crank so the supercharger pulley can be larger for belt traction. The cog setup doesn't work well on the street and is not necessary unless u want huge numbers. My first supercharged motor was 10.5 to 1(93 octane) and I ran 14psi with alcohol and boost referencing timing. Boost makes them hit so much earlier. Do your homework early it will make a big difference. Cam selection is important and will help drop the cylinder pressure which will help with your compression ratio. I highly suggest talking to Rodney at Joeblowracing(8058162587) he knows a lot and had good prices also take a look at www.turboconnectionracing.com. Jim set up a LS2 GTO 11 to 1 supercharged car that makes over 700rwhp at turboconnection. Just do your homework and talk to the experts that work on these cars all the time. Turbos are also awesome u just have to plan on your goals and bank account.


66 chevelle 406 motown race block 8.5 to 1 vortech ysi-7 24psi intercooled and alky sprayed. cam solid lift .630 lift 114 lobe center 278/287 duration @ .050

[66chad]

The setup u have will work with straight supercharging at 10.5 to 1. The alcohol and or intercooling does work great. A serp. belt will run 25 psi up to 1000+h.p. with the right setup u need to run a extra idler on the bottom of the belt and a large pulley on the crank so the supercharger pulley can be larger for belt traction. The cog setup doesn't work well on the street and is not necessary unless u want huge numbers. My first supercharged motor was 10.5 to 1(93 octane) and I ran 14psi with alcohol and boost referencing timing. Boost makes them hit so much earlier. Do your homework early it will make a big difference. Cam selection is important and will help drop the cylinder pressure which will help with your compression ratio. I highly suggest talking to Rodney at Joeblowracing(8058162587) he knows a lot and had good prices also take a look at www.turboconnectionracing.com. Jim set up a LS2 GTO 11 to 1 supercharged car that makes over 700rwhp at turboconnection. Just do your homework and talk to the experts that work on these cars all the time. Turbos are also awesome u just have to plan on your goals and bank account.


66 chevelle 406 motown race block 8.5 to 1 vortech ysi-7 24psi intercooled and alky sprayed. cam solid lift .630 lift 114 lobe center 278/287 duration @ .050

[MonzaRacer]

Ok so lets get real, sell the NOS, if your heads are aluminum keep them and go to Evans Cooling for some NPG-R coolant, sell the carb and go look at this http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/s...637ab9b798b1a0.
Pony up for a LC1 wideband o2 for tuning and you can also get a 4bbl 900-1000cfm throttle body.
This set up will let you run Megaview and you can use a cheap laptop with Windows XP Pro (www.newegg.com $499.00)as the Megatune hates Vista, and you tune it your self, the computer already comes set up for up to 44 psi (ie 4 bar map) and boost control.
By the time you patch a carb to run with boost (yes it can be done but last 2 we sent off cost over $1000 iwth parts and mods) and the EFI is much more tunable.
You keep your eyes on the lookout on Ebay and forums for large injectors and you can save a bundle.
My buddy just bought 4 sets of 4 big injectors from a Honda race team for $50 each, and the throttle body he got has spots for 4 injectors and he is gonna find some extras to use with his NOS too. I figure 12 injectors would be awesome.
Now if you have Iron heads ,givem a new home and order up some AFR225s . alum heads will make the pistons liveable, oh and the cam may need to go too. Give Cam Motion or Comp a call and have them crunch the numbers for you.
If you want to you can save a lot on FI and buy the kit to build it your self too.
as for making 650 figure closer to 750 at even a mild 6- 8 psi boost.
BUT if I had my druthers I would sell the complete engine to someone as a NOS engine.
Still getthe AFR heads, build for the max of 9 to 1, you cna get a rotating assembly from www.ohiocrank.com thier rotating assemblies are top notchand you can play with parts some. I can guarantee you the cranks are tough, had a guy decide to spray his 355 we over built for his boy, well boy wants to drag so he buys asmall fogger setup but its misboxed, he looks for someinfo online but misses the fact its a 400hp fogger setup.
well he hits the track, stages and (on his first spray pass ever) he hooks it up, gets to high gear and hits the button,,,,,well after smoking the tires to a jaw dropping 6 flat in a SSM/ART non tubbed Chevelle (cool ride all the way around) and lifting the heads and completely eliminating a pair of head gaskets, the bottom end still looked awesome and is still onthe track(with a 150 fogger setup now).
We still wonder how it kept together but the crank was a blem and the rods pistons from a busted set and hold the power too.
Do not use stock 4 bolt blocks use spalyed cap blocks like you have( or prep anopther stock block and swap it all over and rebuild yours.
anyway good luck