Alright....I need a convertor.

[trapin]

Real simple, guys. Help me pick a stall speed.

Here's the 411.

LS1
LS6 Intake
Stage II LS6 heads
TR224/114
Ported Throttle Body
3.73 gears
26" tall tires

I have heard it should be somewhere between 2800-3200. There is a company called ACC that sells a "Boss Hogg" 12" convertor that stalls between that range and when I called to inquire about it he actually steered me away from that convertor and told me that they didn't make one that I would need because he felt that the Boss Hogg 2800-3200 would actually stall at 2400 with my modifications. I am pretty confused right now. If it stalls between 2800-3200 and that is the range people were telling me to go anyhow....why would he think the convertor would stall at 2400? Is it possible HE is the one that is confused?

Help me out here. I'm looking for affordability. The bosshogg was around $330 from eBay. I'm not interested in dropping $500 on a convertor I'm only going to replace later when I go with the Twist Machine setup.

Thanks.

[hotrdblder]

2400-2600 will be more then enough, vinnys car had a 3000 with his .710 lift, 262,266@50 solid roller cam and it was damn near perfect, remember even though its not a twist converter you have a pro touring car not a drag car

[PARKERRS]

Tony,
If you are going with the Twistmachine set-up anyway then why waste your time and hard earned money on a stop gap? If it were me I would find a way to scrape up the coin for Steve's converter now. This way you wouldn't have to go through the major pain of pulling the entire transmission a second time and having several hundred out the window for a converter that you will dispose of. Steve's units run around $780 and up depending on specs, I know that is double what you are looking at, but then you would be out $350 now and still have to pony up in the end. It's cheaper to do it once, do it right, and be DONE with it once and for all. If your trans is built properly then when you are ready for the shrifter it can all be done with the trans in the vehicle so like I said no need to pull the trans a second time. In the end the extra $400 or so will have you far ahead of the game. To me it's worth that not to be r&ring the transmission again which is a pain on a completed project(don't ask how I know) not to mention your time, down time, fluid etc. Just my 2 cents worth.

Tommy

[trapin]

Thanks Jake, that's good to know. That tells me I could probably stick with this convertor after all. I also think that when I talk to these people whether it's at a trans shop, or local parts store, or the people over at LS1tech, they always think you have a drag car and give you "drag racing" answers. And telling them that you have a Pro-Touring car doesn't seem to faze them. When I posed this question at LS1tech and told them it was NOT a drag car but a Pro-Touring car...some guy actually came in and told me to consider a 4000 stall. Unbelievable. In one ear and right out the other.

Tom I'd love to do that, but I need that extra coin for other parts. When this car is done, I'm going to be in a 2 or 3 year process of paying off debt. By then it will be so long since I wrenched on it that I won't mind pulling the trans and dropping the extra dough then. Plus I could always sell the Boss Hogg on eBay or LS1tech. I bet I could get a bill for it from someone on a budget.

[hotrdblder]

tony, is the tranny used or rebuilt? that cam is not that much bigger then stock, **** if it was a used tranny (which btw i have no issues with a used tranny as these 4l60e's,and 80s are good, i would throw a shift kit in and run the same convertor that came with it) most GOOD salvage yards give 90 day to 6 month warrantys and in your case i would seek that route, **** i think steve has a used 4l60e in his that he cant blow up, its been in since 2002 when he created the shrifter.

[Steve Chryssos]

I'm gonna try really really hard to blow that tranny up on Thursday at the XV event.

Tony,
I need to run some calculations to formally recommend a stall speed for you. I do believe that you would be better off running a stock vette or Z28 converter. At least with a factory converter, you'll know it is highly efficient. There is simply no way to know for sure what you will get for your $330. Don't ignore the importance of a component that has the high stress job of coupling your engine and transmission. Torque converters really deserve high priority status on your shopping list.

Mor tomorrow. It's 10PM and I just got home from the shop. Gotta juggle XV car prep with SEMA prep.

[Steve Chryssos]

Tony,
Crusing around town--and assuming you drop into overdrive at 45 miles per hour, your rpm will be around 1500. At 65 mph, your engine will be turning approximately 2200rpm. Wind resistance increases in relation to speed, so the gear calculations could be off at 80 mph. The calculator says 2700 rpm. Regardless, all of the numbers are below 3000rpm.

Point is, a 3000 stall torque converter, while useful for wide open throttle and or non-overdrive applications, will be sloppy at low speeds and part throttle in overdrive. This is especially true if it is a bargain basement low efficiency converter. I would really like to see you run 2400-2500 stall. As for the 3000 stall converter stalling at 2400, it sounds like sales speak for: "I have a 3000 stall converter on the shelf, so I will tell you what you want to hear." Also a 12" diameter converter in a hot rod Camaro is downright obscene. It will rob a good amount of power.

As stock vette or Z28 converter will stall closer to your requirements and post very high efficiency numbers. Down the line, when you are ready for one of my converters, I will sell you a 10.5" 2400 stall converter that stalls close to 2400rpm. Not a 3000 stall converter that will somehow stall 600 rpm below its rating.

Sorry for the delay in responding. Things are crazy here pre-SEMA.

[PARKERRS]

I would agree with others. If your budget is that tight just use a converter for an '02 SS Camaro or one for a late model vette. It will give you what you need and still cost less than the cheap bargain basement stall converter. It will also be alot higher qaulity if purchased from a reputable rebuilder.

Tommy

[trapin]

Thank you very much for that analysis, Steve. I really appreciate, especially during this busy time for you. Thanks to everyone else as well. I am going to look for a Z28 or Corvette stall and go from there. However...here's the 13 thousand dollar question......how can I tell if it's a Z28 or Corvette converter over the one I have now?

[PARKERRS]

Call and talk to Mark Bowler at Bowler transmission. He's an excellent person to help you. I don't know if you met him at RTTH3 but he was there. I met and spoke with him first at the Year One event where I was having trans problems, he spent his own time helping me diagnose the possible trouble then called around the next week to locate a reputable rebuilder that he would trust in my area, all at no profit to himself. After RTTH3 I spoke with him again about a custom TVS and throttle cable combo bracket that they are manufacturing since I will be swapping to a Holley Carb later due to fueling issues. He immediately sent me their latest design at no cost to me as a field test unit and only asked that I give feedback to him and this board on the product and instructions. He has helped me a great deal at no profit to himself other than to gain market knowledge on my type application. I gauruntee who will provide my next automatic trans, and whom I'd suggest highly to anyone. Give him a call and see what he says, by the way he does all of the trans work for the Airride Technologies cars that you saw at the autocross that weekend. I would think he can supply the type converter you have decided to run with at a fair price.

[Steve Chryssos]

Thank you very much for that analysis, Steve. I really appreciate, especially during this busy time for you. Thanks to everyone else as well. I am going to look for a Z28 or Corvette stall and go from there. However...here's the 13 thousand dollar question......how can I tell if it's a Z28 or Corvette converter over the one I have now?

I thought you bought a take out engine and trans? What's it outta?

[trapin]

Parker...thanks for the info. I will contact him.

Steve, I did. It is out of a '99 Firebird Trans Am. When you mentioned Z28 or Corvette I thought you were implying that those were different than just the regular Camaro and Trans Am converters. Was I correct?

[PARKERRS]

The T/A converter should work fine it should be the same as a Z28 or SS converter. If it was a WS6 T/A then your set for sure.

Tommy

[trapin]

Were there differences in the converters?

What is the original stall speed of the stock LS1 converter from a '99 Trans Am? Is there any way to find out?

[PARKERRS]

PM JEFFTATE, he works in a GM dealership parts department and can probably find out. If not give Mark Bowler a call.

Tommy

[JEFFTATE]

According to my GM Parts catalog ,

All the V8 powered ( LS engine ) F-body cars from '98-'02 used the same torque converter. ( WS6 or SS didn't matter )
'98-'02 F-bodies used pn-24210919.

'96-'04 Corvettes used pn - 24208649.

I don't know the technical specs of these torque converters.
My catalog only gives parts numbers and application.

Hope this helps.

Now, keep in mind that these are the current part numbers for rebuilt torque converters through GM/ Delco.
The factory pieces are sometimes different than the replacement parts.

Tony , are there any casting numbers on the converter you have ?
I can try to trace the numbers to get an application.

[6'9"Witha69]

According to my GM Parts catalog ,

All the V8 powered ( LS engine ) F-body cars from '98-'02 used the same torque converter. ( WS6 or SS didn't matter )
'98-'02 F-bodies used pn-24210919.

'96-'04 Corvettes used pn - 24208649.

I don't know the technical specs of these torque converters.
My catalog only gives parts numbers and application.

Hope this helps.

Now, keep in mind that these are the current part numbers for rebuilt torque converters through GM/ Delco.
The factory pieces are sometimes different than the replacement parts.

Tony , are there any casting numbers on the converter you have ?
I can try to trace the numbers to get an application.

The Corvette and F body may be different due to vehicle weight (i.e. the vette has a slightly higher stall as the lower weight would yield less flash stall.

[trapin]

Jeff...here are the only numbers I could find on it.

Thanks for the help.

[BRIAN]

Not to step on Steves toes as I am sure he has his combos well worked out. Try Precision Industries as they are one of the best out there. Yes they are in the $700 range but they have a real warranty and also offer one free re-stall on the converter which as you can tell by the pricing can be a real price savings. Remember how a car feels is subjective.


You can drive yourself crazy with converters as the numbers are almost useless to the person doing the buying. The effececiency numbers are also kind of pulled out of thin air as they are based on GM supplied math.

I had 2 converters in a cammed FI LT1 and when I put the PI converter in there I just could not believe how hard the car left from a stand still or roll and driveability was just as before.

By the way most you would also be surprised of how many different brands are being made by the same mfg. That could be good or bad. Not going there.

[JEFFTATE]

Jeff...here are the only numbers I could find on it.

Thanks for the help.

Sorry Tony , those are broadcast codes or date codes.
I couldn't decipher them.
I tried GM Partech but they can't really help without a VIN from the vehicle that the pieces came out of.
They won't even help me without a VIN.
That's the first thing they ask for when you get them on the phone.
It's one of there goofy policies / procedures.

Say !
The VIN of that vehicle is stamped into the engine and the transmission.
Get me the VIN and I'll be able to tell you what they are.