Push Button Start with Passive Device Key wanted

[DarkoNova]

Question: If I install an aftermarket power door lock kit in my 72, will the RFID function in "your kit" work along with the push to start, etc.?

Good question. I'm planning on buying a power window and doorlock kit from Frank, but I already bought the kit from Matt. Maybe I should have asked that before ordering.

Matt

[matty b]

Ok heres how the rfid portion works with the keyless ignition module of mine. When the rfid sensor is near the car the rfid relay or rfid alarm (depending if you wanted it to unlock the doors or not) disarms and allows the ignition switch to work. I utilize the starter interlock built in to the alarm to switch power on or off to the ignition switch module. It very simple in its function but works very well. more or less when the alarm is armed it will open up the circuit going through the interlock, it could be the starter wire or in this case +12 to the module. Any door lock module will work with it though regardless if you got it with rfid or not.

[Tom 72RS/SS]

OK, that's good news. A1 Electric has a slick keyless power door lock kit for my 72 along with an alarm system at a very reasonable price. http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_door.htm any thoughts on these?
Now I'll just wait for you to perfect your push to start setup and be good to go.

[matty b]

what exactly needs to be perfected? Im curious you say that since it works awesome. I suppose Ill let people that already bought one speak for me when they install them. Its universal, isnt restricted to a certain type of switch other than it needs to be momentary and its simple in its design. Also you only need to hook up six wires, +12 and ground and then splice into your ignition switch wiring for battery, ignition, accessory and start. Everything else is prebuilt and ready to be installed plus everything is hooked up with connectors so it more or less plugs in. Hell, if you have a GM car, you dont even need to splice the ignition switch wiring because I have it setup so that all you need to do is depin the wires out of the connector and snap them into a connector housing I supply. Then you plug it into the relay harness connector and you are done. I do custom electrical work on vehicles everyday and I went to great pains to make sure that this requires as little work on the installers part as neccessary. This assures two things; that the installer can do the job quickly and it reduces the chance for errors on the installers part. Truthfully it is harder to install a stereo headunit than this. I would definitely like you to explain yourself though as I dont know whether to take that as a sarcastic statement or if you dont trust that it will work properly. I definitely dont want to come off as being rude though, if you meant that youll grab one once it is proven then I can definitely understand that. It can be a bit hard to plunk down cash on a part that youve never seen work from a person that you dont know. Thats fine and respectable and I would never hold that against someone, however I dont know how Ill be able to perfect this anymore as it does what it does and I dont know if it really needs any improvement save for the possibilty of using SMD construction and shrinking the module to over half its current size. At this moment though there is no reason to go to surface mount construction being that the module is only 3.5 by 4 inches in size. Forgive me if I misunderstood what you meant I just dont know how to take that.

[Tom 72RS/SS]

Well, I guess I used the wrong term and certainly didn't want to imply that your setup was flawed. I remember reading that you were putting together serveral units to insure they performed correctly (which we appreciate, by the way) and I will definetly get in line to buy one when available.
Sorry for the confusion, I am in no way doubting your abilities and hope you accept my appoligies for implying otherwise. I know you have invested a lot of time & money to create a product that's of high quality, easy to install and works effectively so the rest of us can enjoy some high-tech goodies without breaking the bank or worse, butchering our cars. It's people like you that keep this hobby moving forward and I for one would like to say thank you.

[matty b]

oh ok I understand. Yeah they are available now so if you want one they are being built to order. Just pm me if youd like to get one. BTW I figured I misunderstood what you meant, there havent been to many posts critisizing anything being discussed in this thread so I thought it was odd that would begin now. So sorry I took it that way and no hard feelings.

[Tom 72RS/SS]

It's all good, PM sent.

[alittle1]

Jim,

Have you worked out a finalized plan of your design and the functions yet? And, if you do, will you be putting the updated schematic here. Thanks again Jim and Matty for a most enjoyable thread.

[jlmccuan]

The system has been running laid out on my pool table with the alarm,door lock actuators, fule pump enable,accessory power, push and hold to start, push to shut off, and RFID entry and power up. I have been burning it in running it 24 hours a day for 2 weeks. No problems, so looks like I'm good to do the install. I'll post up the as built after its in and working.

[perry mitchell]

Hey Matt, been trying to send you a PM but you need to empty your box. Perry

[Mike Holleman]

Like Perry said, please empty your box.
Mike

[Fesler built]

um they dont work like that at all. Start engages as soon as you press the button from the off position, release the button and it goes to ignition only press again for off. Call watsons yourself if you think Im making this up. You do not press it once for ignition and a second time for the starter to engage. If it worked like that I would not be making an issue about it. If you can prove to the contrary Id love to see it on a little youtube video. Im not gaining anything by saying that its an inferior design and believe me when I say that I had a less than productive conversation with the people over there. If they worked so great Id throw em in every car I could. However, I think Id be doing my customers a diservice by installing one of these POS things in their car. They rank right up there with clear distributor caps and whistler tips. Word to the wise out there, if you want a push button ignition switch that functions like an OEM style you wont get it with the watson setup I dont care who says it. PS I dont know if youre implying that I dont know how to install one these things but if you are I challenge you to show me how it works as you state with the setup they use. All I do day in and day out is custom electrical systems on muscle cars and street rods so I think I have a bit of expierience in this area of automotive construction. Ill say it again, call Watsons directly and ask them how it works it is not how Mr. Fesler is representing them.

BTW their site backs me up on it

http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/w...cessories.html

Put your Ignition Switch and Starter all into one unit. This gorgeous chrome recessed switch is 3/4" diameter and has a blue LED ring to indicate when the ignition is "On". *****>>>>Push and hold the button while the starter turns over and release when the engine starts. The ignition stays "On". Push again to stop the engine<<<<*****. You've seen it on new, top-end luxury cars... now it can be on your
ride, too.

Mr Fesler if you are attempting to profit on misinforming potential customers then you have a problem. Its pretty unethical to out and out say that something functions in a completely different way than it really does especially when the manufacturer publishes the information on their own website that states the contrary to what you are saying. Im gonna let it go at that and Ill go ahead and post up the schematic tomorrow so at least you guys can save yourself a bit of cash than buying this garbage for retail price.

OK I have two that we have just installed and here is how they work for me out of the box, so if you guys are getting something different not sure why.

You push once quick let go it goes to ignition and the dash lights up and stays that way so you can have radio on no start, you push again for off and push again and hold and it starts and runs and the dash stays lit, you push again and everything shuts off. I will have my blazer at Columbus if anyone on the site would like to come see how it works and how simple it is. I am not making things up and am not trying to rip anyone off as you state. I think I worded it wrong from what all you guys want and sorry for the miscomunications on that. I dont want to misinform anyone here at all this site is great for finding this stuff out and we can all learn alot from each other.

I do however know they did have some problems with some units not doing this and it was a simple relay problem. I am not looking to cause any problems just state that they work fine for us if you want simple. I do agree that there might be several different ways to do this and I am very intersted in what you are doing and would like more info on it as it sounds better than what everyone else out there is doing. I will PM you when you empty your box so we can talk or call if you are cool with that.

The Watsons peice is too hot rod looking for most of the cars I do so what you have sounds good. I would be intersted in talking more to you about it as we have been messing around with other things as well. But I can assure you by looking at what we do we dont missell people or try to get them to buy one thing over the other. We use the products that we think are the best for ease of installation and how long they last.

Again I am not trying to start anything or take buisness from anyone as I sell the Flaming River one as well but would like more options.

[perry mitchell]

Did any of you that sent mattyb money for his PUSH BUTTON START SYSTEM receive the item? I have been trying to get ahold of him for a couple of weeks now with no luck. His mail box is full and he doesn't accept personal e-mails. I am not worried about losing my money but am concerned he may be ill or something.

[Tom 72RS/SS]

I was thiniking the exact same thing but I got an email from him last night. Apparently he's had to order the switches directly from the manufacturer and is waiting on THEM. He is upset over the delay and stressed that since demand has outstripped supply, it's making him look bad. Trust me, all is well with Matt and he said he's decided to send out the modules now and the switches when he gets them.
He will definately come through on his word, please be patient.

[jjump59]

Need to clean out your mailbox. I'd like the red switch.

[perry mitchell]

Thanks for the reply. I knew it had to be something simple because the times I corresponded with him he seemed like an honest guyand a straight shooter. I had a feeling he was going to be overwhelmed because of the high demand. He and Jim both hit a home runs with their systems.

[jlmccuan]

My next step is to find an RFID device on a small disc which I can put on the back of my watch. Anybody have a source for these?

[jerome]

http://rfidusa.com/superstore/produc...products_id=69

you do carry a wallet right?

If you want a buddy to get something from the car for you, it would be weird to give him your watch...much more natural to give him a card.

Gotta have a wallet w/ drivers licence to drive right?

Don't know where you live, but in the near future, something you have will have an rfid. WA state already has RFID's on its drivers licences for border crossing to Canada. New passports have them too.

[jjump59]

OK, starting to get worried, no response from Matt even after opening a Paypal dispute, still has not emptied his mail box here. has anyone recieved anything from him? At this point just want to get money back.

[perry mitchell]

I heard from him this morning. It's still good. He says we should be receiving the modules any day now since he did send them out. The buttons will arrive separately.