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    Results 21 to 29 of 29
    1. #21
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Location
      Fontana, CA
      Posts
      4,960
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Chad-1stGen
      Speaking of which make sure you are using the right hole in your pedal. I believe it's upper for manual, lower for power but maybe someone else can confirm since I'm going on memory atm.
      You are correct.

      Nick R.
      69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
      08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
      Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
      Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Posts
      162
      Finally drove car! Brake pedal is still a little low, but not that bad. Cannot lock-up brakes. 1" bore is apparently to big. Before I change master to a smaller bore I wanted to get feedback. Should I look into the step bore master mentioned in another post? Sounds as though it will possible solve my effort and slightly low pedal feeling.

      Ed

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      Just source a 7/8 disc disc master cyl and give it a try it should raise the pedal feel drasticly. as the force you are applying is going to build peak preasure faster and giving you a better feel.
      Alos do you have residula pressure checks all the way around (ie front and rear if not the fluid has to rebuild "take up" pressure before you get any movementy and the fact that they kee pthe pads a tad closer to the rotors.
      I am goingto work out a set of rear disc for my Monza soon but gotta get it running first.

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Posts
      162
      Seems some people are for the residual pressure valve and others feel it is not needed. If I change to a 7/8 disc/ disc master does anyone know year, make, and model of donor vehicle so I can tell my auto parts guy?

      Thanks,
      ED

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Posts
      198
      I would also like to know of the application.... Anyone?
      68 Chevelle SS396. Pro-touring in Progress
      Pro-jected 396, TKO 600, 3.90'd 12 bolt, LS1 brakes.

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Marshall , MO
      Posts
      699
      Raybestos # MC 39037 (R.H.) (cast iron) 7/8 bore
      '78-81 Ford Fairmont, Granada, Futura, Zepher (Mercury)

      Raybestos # MC 39531 (R.H.) (aluminum) 21mm bore
      '81-86 Ford T Bird, '82-86 Mustang, '83-86 Marquis (Mercury)

      Raybestos # MC 39310 (R.H.) (cast iron) 7/8 bore
      '81-83 Ford Escort, Explorer, Lynx, Mark 7 (Lincoln)

      Raybestos # MC 39027 (L.H.) (cast iron) 7/8 bore (L.H.)
      '76-80 GM Monza, Sky Hawk, Starfire, Sunbird
      Brad Shepard
      69 Malibu
      Marshall, MO

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Posts
      162
      Shep,

      Thank you,
      ED

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      Uh pretty sure that none of those are actually speced for disc/disc
      I guarantee the Monza isnt.
      And I would take a look at a later disc/disc 98 S10Blazer as it has a 2 piece spindle I have thought about running on my Monza and it is a drop in for Gbodies and is upgradeable to Vette stuff so I would bet it would work well with disc/disc.

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Posts
      162
      Concluded I have the low drag calipers and therefor will need a step bore master

      ED

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