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Thread: Specs on subframes?
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01-03-2005 #1
Specs on subframes?
With all the popularity of Pro Touring, there have been many manufacturers to come out with complete kits for many muscle era cars. Among the kits there are complete bolt in subframes that offer "vastly improved" geometry and handling for your specific car. In my case I look at the first gen camaro parts and kits, specifically the 67. In many cases the information provided by the manufacturer is of how complete the kit is or how easy it is to adapt or install. My question is, do they offer specifications for their complete kits (because anyone would be hard pressed to offers specs for a kit that could use any number of LCA, UCA, spindles etc) or do they just tell you that it's a "vast improvement"?
I would just like to know how well a subframe was to perform under the rigors of racing or aggresive street driving. Some may state tubing thickness or frame rail thickness, possibly advertise 0 bumpsteer but do not usually give out characteristics like camber, caster, how much it changes FRCH, COG or pivot points. Would there may be a way to calculate some of these characteristics that some of you know and might be so kind as to impart on me and others of this board? Or would it just be best to contact each manufacturer and ask?
Namely, I bring this topic up because I think that if one was to use a bolt in subframe (complete kit) and spend a good amount of money on it, that they may like to know what they are getting. Also it might help to clear up some issues with using the bolt in subframe (non complete) and substituting DSE or GW or AFCO arms, taller UBJ's etc. Since some of these arms have built in changes, it might be overkill with said frame.
Was just wondering if anyone has used subframes that did vastly improve their handling and if they have measured the results or characteristics after installing one. Right now I can think of Wayne Due, Fatman Fabrications, Chris Alston Chassiworks, Art Morrison, modified Corvette, and custom...and from there my memory fails me.
There are also kits such as DSE's stage 3 that use the stock subframe but substitue almost everything. And one could use a stock frame and do the Guldstrand mod with different parts as well. But my main question here is the 'other' subframes that are for sale. Any info??
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01-04-2005 #2Ok, how about just some personal experience with some of these subframes. I know that this may have been a hard to judge question so I'll just simplify it. What do you use, and why do you like it? Did it significantly help, and if it did in what ways? Lower COG, less roll moment, better geometry, no bumpsteer, less unsprung weight, instant center adjustability, and lighter frame etc are all good things. What did you gain from using a different subframe?
01-04-2005 #3
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For starters it would be nice to see more of what Pozzi has done, publish your numbers and tell everyone how you got there.
01-04-2005 #4
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One problem with asking consumers what differences it made to their cars would be that every person can represent it differently and every person reading there responses would and will interpret it differently. Even if you did the same mods to two cars, many different factors would come into play such as tires, size of wheels, shock, springs, and all those mods to the rear as well, so unless you had the same person drive the car and you used the same car it can and probably will vary. I would be much more interested in the actual manufactures data, if they had any.
James J.
01-04-2005 #5I'd think it'd be great if one of the magazines took all the aftermarket frames and a standard one and tested the frames for stiffness. Just from looking at the new ones they don't look that ridged. The existing one has a large section center member that looks as if it'd be more stiff than the 3x3 /3x4 exc that the aftermarket ones use.
As for using the corvette a arms, they are built for the corvette, so do you really think it's going to work better than the existing set up? may be, may be not. Are you really going to spend a huge wedge without finding out? Like the emporors new clothes, every one standing aroud saying its's from the corvette- it must be good. (eh, are you sure?) The corvette has the engine in a different place it has a different wheel base, track, CENTER OF GRAVITY, any of this making sence to you??? LOTS of bucks and you dont even know the return.
Stiffness of frame is probably easiest to read and may be most important. any undamped chasis flex will mess with the handeling even with the 'perfect' A arm geometry.
Safest course of action is to stick with the standard frame, stitch the frame joints together and may be looking at a Detroit Speed and Engineering style upper A arm relocation. (Preferably if the can proove it works, control tyres, shocks, springs etc on a before after comparison)
01-04-2005 #6Here's a thought chalange the makers of the frames to do a few controled tests. run a car over a slalom etc. then change only the frame. Hopefuly they'd use a car with all new bushings and shocks. After all if they want us to buy there product the least you'd expect is they could proove its better...
Any Manufactures already done this, I'd be very interested in the results.
01-04-2005 #7



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