Need some advice on fixing body work

[HotRod68Camaro]

I can finally getting the camaro body work done since the wreck last summer. I have a few questions.

Part A) I am going to be buying new front fenders and i was quoted $263 to primer both of them and another $462 to paint them both. They will be getting painted black. Does this sound like a reasonable price?

Part B) My driver's side rear quarter panels has a lot of dents in it. You can see pics here: http://s168.photobucket.com/albums/u...body%20panels/ i am not sure of the right way to get this fixed, and i am waiting on the body shop to tell me which way they think is best to do it. The quarter is rust free (it was taken down to bare metal before this current paint job). Should i just have it straightened? use a 80% quarter from goodmark? or should i buy a full quarter from goodmark? what would be a reasonable price for this repair?

[hotrdblder]

80% take to long to install and require a 5 ft seam along the upper body line, i would not fix that quarter too large of dents, it could be fixed but i would buy a good mark full 1/4 and it shoul dbe 700-1200 to have it installed and roughed in.

[HotRod68Camaro]

80% take to long to install and require a 5 ft seam along the upper body line, i would not fix that quarter too large of dents, it could be fixed but i would buy a good mark full 1/4 and it shoul dbe 700-1200 to have it installed and roughed in.

thanks for the advice, makes sense to me.

anybody else?

[Gordz32]

What do those prices include. Bodywork? Polishing? AS far as the rear quarter goes. I disagree, U could get away with a 80% 1/4, and instead of cutting out all the way to the body line. Cut down about an 1"inch from the body line and overlap the old quarter onto the new quarter. This way u can easily lay some filler down after welding and get away with it. Unless of course you want to do a full quarter. It all depends on how much time and money you want to put into it. I've done both quarters many times on 1st gens and they always come out nice. keep in mind that when you pull the whole quarter off, your pulling the glass, separating it from the tail panel, possibly replaceing drop off panel, and also the outer wheelhouse. Goodluck

[Jim Nilsen]

Try straightening it first, it is not as bad as it looks and you will use more mud to to do the 80% quarter to make it right. The full quarter is a better idea than the 80% any day to make sure it is straight with no mud. Paintless dent repair guy's can do an amazing job with damage like that.

[hotrdblder]

forget 80% panel and overlaping unless you like repairs to haunt you down the road, yeah it might work but you know a full 1/4 will do it.

[Tom Welch]

A good primer in a spray can would prime those fenders a lot cheaper that your quoted price. As for the quarter panel, I wish mine had been as solid as yours, dents dont worry me as much as rust. I'd be frammin' away with my hammers and dollies.

[hotrdblder]

A good primer in a spray can would prime those fenders a lot cheaper that your quoted price. As for the quarter panel, I wish mine had been as solid as yours, dents dont worry me as much as rust. I'd be frammin' away with my hammers and dollies.

are you kiddingme?? a spray bomb primer? do you have any idea what that primer would do once in the sun with final paint on top?? not a good idea, do it once do it right

[mattstang70]

you can buy quality primer in a can from a reputable paint shop, im sure he didn't mean rustoleum primer

matt

[hotrdblder]

nothing out of a can will touch a high quality eurpean 2k primer, anything in a can is 1k meaning 1 part, only primer, 2k is 2 part, primer and activator, if a spray bomb had activator it would be hard before you used it, anything in a spray bomb will never stop shrinking, you will think it filled the sand scratches good then 3 days after painting you will see the scratches and more then likely buff thru trying to get them out.

spray cans are for used cars

[MonzaRacer]

Well I have used rattle can primer for small repairs as it the same as regualr laquer based primer surfacer. but I would agree on some and disagree on others.
Get an estimate on paintless repair and remind him thatthe quarter IS going to be blocked and refinished. As long a s a body line isnt creased or the metal kinked very bad it can be worked out tfor the most part then do some etching epoxy primer on the bare metal do tyour body work, I prefer to use fiberglass resin jelly over regualr filler as it doesnt crack or soak up water but it has to be done while fresh or its hard.Then reseal with epoxy primer and then do your build coat on primer and surfacer and then seal and repaint. Black is the cheapest to paint but the hardest to get straight.
As for installing a 80% quarter you cut the affected panel off leaving it long, trim the quarter roughly, then I simply tack in a few pieces of the quarter and make a lip under the car part and lay the quarter up and grind the edge to fit with a razor blade gap then weld it in.
I learned this from my uncle who is a professional bodyman. We have hung quarters on many vehicles this way and as the welds cool ,provided you lay it up right, it pulls the rerpair in tension and nowarp.
As for 1 part vs 2 part I have used both and both work. single stage simply requires extra set time before top coating.
anyone who evergrew up using acrylic enamel and laquer remember the times before catylized finishes.
AS for spray bomb being for used cars get a life, thats all we have.
and if we can use it for certain things so be it BUT I do agree NEVER paint a car body with it but it can be used in certain instances, and besides several of the components used in finishing cars today come in spray can.
As for "european" 2 part primer ,figure this Sherwin -Williams pioneered 2 part paint long before Dupont did. Dupont pushed forward with Imron and I can tell you they never published the facts about isocyanate poisoning,,till pinters started getting sick.

[hotrdblder]

lol, where do i start?????
kudos to sherwin williams, who told them to take the wax out of there clears ?? no one, it just peeled off in huge sheets in the 90's, spies hecker/standox perfected 2k primers/ clears etc, you can have your rattle can primer and i am glad you have done 80% quarters , no one ever said it could not be done, just not nearly as good of a job as a full 1/4, let me guess your the guy that goes in the trunk and welds /grinds bodywork the seam?? i doubt it, if you want a 10-20k car thats fine but i figured i would give the advice of a 50k car, as he has a ls1 etc.
monza when is your book coming out? let me guess your the guy who invented the rustoleum roller paint job too??

[HotRod68Camaro]

Well the body guy finally got back to me. He said he could fix it w/o replacing the panel. I was quoted $1000 including primer. Now I just need to see what he can do about the door. I will probably get it in the shop late August or early September.