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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      Lima, Ohio
      Posts
      216

      Buying a LS1 but got a question?

      getting ready to finally make a deal on a LS-1. It has 90000 and I'm getting it cheap. I figure these run well up into the 120-150 thousand range so I'd be ok to not rebuild it now. Only problem is the fella is saying that at WOT there is some white smoke out the back. I figured a blown head gasket or cracked head would blow white smoke out all the time so what could this be? Any and all input is appreciated as I'm making the deal tommorrow afternoon. If I should post this in the EFI section just say so. I'm ok with replacing a head gasket but don't want to buy a piece of junk. I do know that the newer motors last a lot longer than the old SBC's that I'm used to.
      Thanks a million guys.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Burnaby, BC, Canada
      Posts
      1,388
      Not sure on your question, a blown head gasket could cause premature engine wear.

      I'd do a search on www.ls1tech.com
      1969 CAMARO RS

      2002 LS1-T56 Dyno results: 452 rwhp, 425 rwtq
      Project pics of my '69
      Lateral-G Feature Page
      Camaro Performers Magazine Feature

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      I hope you are getting it very cheap as this could turn out to be very bad. Could be a simple head gasket fix though
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      Lima, Ohio
      Posts
      216
      price is less than 800 and I'm picking it up. Its not in a running car though. You say very bad. Anybody care to continue with that thought? For what its worth I have no problem in rebuilding the short block since it will still be less than buying a less miled engine for me. All I need to farm out is maching and balancing of the rotating assembly.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Bedford TX
      Posts
      634
      For 800 bucks if it is a complete engine I wouldnt sweat it, even if the block turns into a core exchange. But I would definetly rebuild it before I stuck it in anything.
      Justin, 68 Camaro Update:5 speed is in and neighbors are pissed!

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Burnaby, BC, Canada
      Posts
      1,388
      If you can try to get the accesories, wiring harness and PCM. It will save you alot of money and headaches down the road.
      1969 CAMARO RS

      2002 LS1-T56 Dyno results: 452 rwhp, 425 rwtq
      Project pics of my '69
      Lateral-G Feature Page
      Camaro Performers Magazine Feature

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      Lima, Ohio
      Posts
      216
      thanks a million folks

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      Yeah if it's a complete engine for $800, I too would get it and find out what's wrong before installing it into the car. Good luck and let us know what you find.
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      Olathe, KS
      Posts
      38
      Country Flag: United States
      I know the motor you're talking about. I was looking at it for my Impala, but passed because it definately needs to be gone through before it's put into anything. Good luck!

      -Chris
      '64 Impala Sport Coupe- Slow-Touring project; LR4, 700R4, work in progress
      '66 Corvair Monza Convertible- 110, Powerglide
      '95 Z28- 355 LT1, 76mm turbo, built 4L60E, 12-bolt
      '98 S10 scsb- 4.3 auto
      '00 Corvette coupe- 6-speed

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      Lima, Ohio
      Posts
      216
      Alright well I'm gonna pick it up. Going through it should be fun. Even if something is wrong I can still store it and fix it later. Just time and money .

      I have a t56 that I was going to mate to my SBC. I have all the conversion stuff (bell, clutch, z-bar, adapter plates, etc.) for the SBC. Can I use any of it (all of it would be great)? Or do I have to sell it all and convert over to hydraulic?

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      What type of T56 is it? LT1 or what? You may be able to reuse most of it unless it's an LT1 T56. I don't think that can be mated at all to a Gen 3. I may be wrong though.
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      Lima, Ohio
      Posts
      216
      Oh that would prolly help. Its definitely an ls1 t56. I like the thought of using a mech linkage with a ls1

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      California
      Posts
      1,368
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by merriman44
      Oh that would prolly help. Its definitely an ls1 t56. I like the thought of using a mech linkage with a ls1
      Unless you have good fabrication skills, I doubt that's possible. LS engines no longer have the hole to bolt the pivot ball for the Z-bar, so you'd have to either fab something up or go hydraulic. I wanted to keep the mechanical setup when I get my 6.0, but it looks like I'll have to go hydraulic as well.

      Matt

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      BC Canada
      Posts
      145
      Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova
      Unless you have good fabrication skills, I doubt that's possible. LS engines no longer have the hole to bolt the pivot ball for the Z-bar, so you'd have to either fab something up or go hydraulic. I wanted to keep the mechanical setup when I get my 6.0, but it looks like I'll have to go hydraulic as well.

      Matt
      Would this help?
      http://www.sdparts.com/product/SDCB/...andTrucks.aspx

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      California
      Posts
      1,368
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 00fxd
      Dunno. Says Gen V + VI engines. What's a 6.0 qualify as? If that will work, then yeah that's awesome. I can save around $700.

      Matt

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      BC Canada
      Posts
      145
      Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova
      Dunno. Says Gen V + VI engines. What's a 6.0 qualify as? If that will work, then yeah that's awesome. I can save around $700.
      Matt
      Matt, as the bell housing bolt pattern is almost the same I belive it will be just the thing. Why don't you give them a call? I plan on using this part for my upcoming conversion.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Bedford TX
      Posts
      634
      Quote Originally Posted by 00fxd
      Page bookmarked, what a find!
      Justin, 68 Camaro Update:5 speed is in and neighbors are pissed!

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      That's for a BBC. The problem you will run into is the change in location of the engine/bell housing of the Gen 3/4 to that of a BBC. However, all that means is you'll probably have to change the frame mount of the Zbar. That's potentially easy. The linkages you can make out of rods and rod ends. So yeah, that could work great. The bell housing from Classic Chevy 5 speed has a hole for a mechanical clutch fork and they have a pivot ball for it as well.
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      Lima, Ohio
      Posts
      216
      Oh well then... Really I just wanted to reuse my blowproof bellhousing I picked up from Mcloeds. It was real nice and pricey and it sucks to think I can't use. That and the brand new clutch/flywheel and z-bar setup and adapter plate. Here's the bell
      http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      BC Canada
      Posts
      145
      Quote Originally Posted by WS6
      That's for a BBC. The problem you will run into is the change in location of the engine/bell housing of the Gen 3/4 to that of a BBC. However, all that means is you'll probably have to change the frame mount of the Zbar. That's potentially easy. The linkages you can make out of rods and rod ends. So yeah, that could work great. The bell housing from Classic Chevy 5 speed has a hole for a mechanical clutch fork and they have a pivot ball for it as well.
      This bracket works for many guys that are using 502 etc that comes without any clutch ball holes, neither the standard hole for pass cars/trucks or the other hole for Corvette. BB/SB are interchangeable and usually come with both holes. The bellhousings have the same pattern BB/SB/LSx except for the one missing hole on the other side. Assuming that you are placeing the engine in the original location and the trans on it's mounts, is the bell mating surface not in the same fore/aft location?

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