Flush mounting my rear opera windows?

[Mathius]

Ok, I tried this one in Paint and Body a LONG time ago, and never got a response...https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...hlight=Mathius

I have a '76 Chevy Malibu, that has opera windows (the triangular shaped, quarter panel windows in the pictures below). I hate the design, because there is a rather large lip, say.. 1/4" maybe even a little bigger, all the way around the window to house some chrome plastic trim, and without the trim there, it tends to collect water.

Here are some shots of the windows from my cardomain page:




I can get closeups later as necessary.

I want to make my windows flush against the side of the vehicle, much like pickup truck extended cabs:




Unfortunately, I've never been able to find a good picture, or see in person what the extended cab window openings look like without glass in them. I don't have the slightest clue what kind of channel is in place for weatherstripping.

I think the glass itself would be fairly easy. I might even be able to just cut a big piece of lexan and save some weight.

I think the weatherstripping channel will be the big challenge, that and figuring out what kind of weatherstripping I need.

I'm not looking to tackle this project immediately, but I would like to know if any of you have tried anything similiar with a vehicle before?



Thanks,
Mathius

[ProTouring442]

Later GM opera windows were glued in directly to the sheet metal, with a few brackets to hold it tight.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[Mathius]

Later GM opera windows were glued in directly to the sheet metal, with a few brackets to hold it tight.

Ok.... how does that help me?

Mathius

[ProTouring442]

Ok.... how does that help me?

Mathius

Well, it seems to me that, with a little work, you could duplicate this approach with your current situatuion.

I the window fits in from the outside, I would look at the idea of shrinking the window opening so that it is about 1/2" to 3/4" smaller than the glass. While doing this, you would need to eliminate the stepped in area where the glass normally sits, at least enough of it to let the window be installed from the inside.

On the later cars, the sheet metal around the window was double thick, so I would probably duplicate this with yours. Once you have the sheet metal worked out, I would hold the window glass in place temporarily with a few pieces od double face tape while making a bracket for the top and bottom of the glass. You would want this bracket to hold the glass up, as well as hold it tight to the 1/4 opening. Once the brackets are done, remove everything and cut in the area in whatever color you will be painting your car.

Now, using thin strips of butyl tape, install the glass, pressing it into place, then holding it in with the brackets. I would use double face tape to protect the glass from the metal brackets so that you reduce the chance of bursting the glass while drawing the brackets up tight.

Hope this helps!
Bill

[Mathius]

Well, it seems to me that, with a little work, you could duplicate this approach with your current situatuion.

I the window fits in from the outside, I would look at the idea of shrinking the window opening so that it is about 1/2" to 3/4" smaller than the glass. While doing this, you would need to eliminate the stepped in area where the glass normally sits, at least enough of it to let the window be installed from the inside.

On the later cars, the sheet metal around the window was double thick, so I would probably duplicate this with yours. Once you have the sheet metal worked out, I would hold the window glass in place temporarily with a few pieces od double face tape while making a bracket for the top and bottom of the glass. You would want this bracket to hold the glass up, as well as hold it tight to the 1/4 opening. Once the brackets are done, remove everything and cut in the area in whatever color you will be painting your car.

Now, using thin strips of butyl tape, install the glass, pressing it into place, then holding it in with the brackets. I would use double face tape to protect the glass from the metal brackets so that you reduce the chance of bursting the glass while drawing the brackets up tight.

Hope this helps!
Bill

So.. you would use what, silicone, or that strip caulk stuff to seal the window from water?

Seems like a risky install. I could do it, but man, so many things could go wrong with that setup. Overtighten the screws and the glass breaks. Seems like there would be a lot of potential for leaks, especially considering that the contour of the quarter panel isn't flat.

Not throwing the idea away, just trying to get a better understanding of how to solve these issues?

Mathius

[ProTouring442]

Actually, the more I look at your car, the more I think your 1/4 windows are alread mounted from the inside. If I am right, all you need to do is see what is keeping them from being mounted farther out towards the 1/4.

As for sealer, you'll find that they are held in like I described, with butyl and brackets.

Remove the interior, figure out how to move them out closer to the 1/4, make the mods and reinstall them with new butyl. Go to your local glass shop/paint supply place and they will have the stuff you need to remount/seal the windows.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[shep]

The windows are glued on the inside and have at least an extra inch of glass all the way around. To get them flush I think they will have to be installed from the outside.